Gary Lewis

Scott - In these two shots of Huck's filthy engine you can see how the fuel lines come up over the back and into and out of the fuel rails. I'm wondering if I can put that setup in place but where these go to the rails connect to either nylon line or EFI-rated hose and go into the return-style fuel pressure regulator I have. Mount that regulator on the firewall or back of the intake manifold/lower plenum and go from there to the carb. That way I'd keep the lines far from the exhaust and not have to go to the front of the engine and then back. Plus, I'd be plumbed for EFI when the time comes.

Brian - I don't recognize that t-case. It doesn't look like an NP208, or a BW1345 that I would have expected on your truck, or a BW1356 that I think is on that ZF5. And, it occurred to me that I don't need to take more pics as I already have them. Here's the front view of a BW1345, and you can see the 6 holes where it bolts to the tranny, with no mount provisions otherwise: And in this pic you can see the 6 bolt holes on the back of the tranny, as well as how the tranny bolts to the mount and the mount to the crossmember:

Good job, Rob! Yes, the search function helps a BUNCH! I put that '85 document together from the 36 separate "sections" of the '85 EVTM we have on the site. Then I ran the optical character recognition (OCR) software on it and wound up with a searchable '85 EVTM. I don't want to put it on the site, for various reasons, so "hid" it in plain view on the Test page. It has been very handy many times as I've tried to find circuits or wires based on the colors in a picture. The question of what wires go where from that connector have come up several times recently. One was by a guy on Facebook wanting to put a tach in a truck with idiot lights and was wondering what wires go where between the two different sized instrument connectors. Another was when I was doing the ICVR testing and wanted to know which pin goes where. So maybe I need to create a spreadsheet that maps them? I could start with your info and just add the 14-pin info.

I'm probably not going to make it to the shop today, but can take a pic tomorrow to show how the ZF5 mounts.

I don't think that cracked mount is on the t-case. The t-case only mounts to the tranny with the ~6 bolts in a circle. It doesn't have a mount to anything else. That looks like an ear on the transmission itself where it bolts to the mount that sits on the crossmember.

That's a neat solution for a turn and filter combined.

Bummer! That's awful! Hope you find it and get it sealed easily.

Angelo - Do you have the charcoal canister under the battery? If not, how 'bout placing the filter there? The factory hard lines run up that way anyway, and you'd stay inside the frame.

That's a good price for all that - assuming the mount can be fixed. I think that's a BW1356 t-case, and it has the double-cardan front yoke awa the u-joint on it.

Very much a sign of the times. With 22 million in the US out of work, with the US government spending buckets of money it doesn't have trying to prop up the economy, and with the price of oil having gone negative there is a very real danger of serious financial times ahead. And money for niceties, like this truck, dries up pretty quickly in times like this. My guess is that it won't meet the reserve and the guy will have to sit on it for a year or so. Bad timing. But think about the Bronco, IIRC, that was listed for $75K. Someone's going to be sitting on that one for a LOOOOOOOONG time!

Good! It is bad to have a bad seal 'cause it makes you question everything, but at least you got the problem solved and can move on.

I, too, like the integrated solution of the Summit feed. But with an electric pump it seems like you are gathering more heat if you run to the front and up that way. I have the factory EFI tubing from Huck which runs up over the tranny and the back of the engine. Since that needs to be used for EFI I'm leaning to using it now for a carb so I don't have to change later. If Scott's not going to EFI then that routing may not be advantageous.

Then it looks like you'll have to drive them out and replace them. But in my experience pulling them in with and impact wasn't enough. They really needed to be pressed in.

Thanks for the info. I'll keep that approach in mind.

Yes! That's the process I've used, both on ball joints as well as pitman arms. The smack with the hammer usually allows another partial turn on the puller, and pretty soon it comes off.

Clifton - Thank you for the thoughts. And what you said makes sense. We don't get a lot of young people on here, but we have some. Perhaps you are right about how to better reach the younger generations. Jim - I'm not wading in. I'm thinking about wading in. And doing due diligence before getting a toe wet. All - I, personally, do not have the time to moderate anything else. I believe my time would be better spent adding content to the documentation on here. For instance, I have two more brochures that should be added. I have the over 1,000 pages of the part number to ID number cross reference scanned in but that needs a lot of work to add to the site. And soon the 1986 Standard & Utility Parts Catalog should arrive in the mail and need scanning and uploading. Meanwhile I have two trucks that are begging to be worked on. So if this were to happen, and that's a big IF, I'd have to have commitments from several others to help manage it. But not manage in a loose fashion where we let the inmates blow the whistle when someone is out of line. Instead, in an active hands-on fashion where things that do not meet our guidelines, not just your personal guidelines, are immediately dealt with. So keep those thoughts coming in. And keep voting. The vote is 6 no and 2 yes, so it isn't looking likely.

Thanks, Jim. We are looking forward to the outing. In the last 5 weeks I think we have been away from the house 3 times for Walmart to put groceries in the back, 1 time for a local chain to do the same, and 3 trips to the shipping place. So to go for a drive, eat out, and stay gone for hours is going to feel liberating. But, in those 5 weeks I've done a lot of things on the truck. However, some of those have been done several times.

Yes, I'd say it is a repro, but I don't know. Says it is interchange part number E2TZ 1015-D, and the catalog says that is a Type 5, argent, and will be marked with an LX. But, the advert also says "Brand: Crash Parts Fast". That's not very confidence inspiring.

Perhaps we could draw up a set that we could offer should they be foolish enough to try. Might include terminology like "In spite of all the warnings I've received". Or "I, being of less than sound mind, am embarking on this journey knowing full well the perils that lie ahead." And they surely must include "By signing here you waive and forfeit all rights to complaining, whining, griping, or crying out loud."

Bill - You sure didn't make a very strong case for opening up Bullnose Forum. If anything you added weight to everyone else's argument not to do so. But I appreciate you volunteering to monitor it if we do open it up. Steve - You've seen the same guys I have, I can tell. I just checked and I have 52 of them blocked so I'll never see their posts. But there seem to be plenty more where they came from. However, there are good Facebook pages with good users out there - Keith/FORDification runs a good one. All - Let me try to outline why I asked this question. We don't want the "normal" (is that what "rank" of rank and file means? ) Facebook user from the various Ford pages to be part of our "family". However, I can't help but think that there are plenty of "us" out there getting fed up with what they are seeing. I know there are some as I've seen them say so. Given that, what if we had a "gentleman's" Bullnose Ford truck page? We state the guidelines up front and police them tightly. Having said that, is the view worth the climb? Most of you are saying it isn't, and I'm sure the maintenance would be time consuming. And trust me, I'm not looking for more to do. Anyway, I thought it an interesting question and one we ought to kick around. Please keep the thoughts and comments flowing.

This is the 2nd set of headers I've installed, and both were a problem. Plus, as Jim said, the 460 carb headers, which I didn't install, hit the perch on the driver's side on Big Blue. So I'm not a fan of headers. But, as said, I have a ton of money in these so will do my best to make them work. And I think I can get there. But I sure wouldn't advise anyone else to do this. In fact, do y'all think it would be helpful to consolidate my experiences with L&L and these headers in one thread? That way we could refer folks to something a bit more concise if they are thinking of doing this? Having said that, Janey and I are headed out tomorrow. Have a grocery run to make to Owasso and may have our first meal out in a month - drive through style. So I won't be working on the truck tomorrow. Maybe it'll go together better on Thursday.

You are getting all your ducks lined up, and will have a productive time in the near future. On the studs, do you have a thread file? You should as you can clean up those studs fairly easily - lots easier than replacing them.

I toyed with buying a Viair system for Big Blue. Read lots of good things about them. I'll bet that will serve you well.

I've often thought I wanted to live in the mountains. But as I get older, not so much.

Spray it on something similar. Or, is there fabric turned under on those panels? If so, shoot it and see.