Gary Lewis

Bill - You said "I got it after I had clicked on the link". But did you get a notification that you could post? Or Jim's email? Or something else?

Actually, with a bit more looking I found: Stainless Y: And while it is twice the price the $12 price isn't too bad to be here next week 3 Y's: This is even cheaper than the other one at $3 each. But since I only need one the price isn't much different between the two. The stainless has a draw as I think it might be stronger. Thoughts?

Jim - You are absolutely correct. The Y looks to be a much better solution. It is a 3/8" line, and this one from Amazon would work but the delivery date is way too far out. So if anyone finds a brass 3/8" Y that's available "now" I need it.

Your square bit did a good job. Gonna have to get one of those! Was watching while I drilled the spacer for Big Blue yesterday. Cool that I can drill holes and yet the bit doesn't even turn.

The brackets look great, Dave. Well done! On those running boards, while I dislike them less then the aluminum ones, they look like they are a prime candidate for hitting something. Ditto the hoop ones.

That part was used on all Bullnose radiators regardless of engine from 1980 - 1984, as shown below. You can see the illustrations on Documentation/Cooling System/Cooling System Illustrations. And there are two pieces, the "support", which is the bigger piece and is 8A193, and the "reinforcement, which is 8C241 80/84 F100/350,F(Super Duty),U150 6&8 All E0TZ 8A193-B 80/84 F100/350,F(Suoer Dutv).U150 6&8 All E0TZ 8C241-A

Vaughn - I'm not sure I understand. Are you saying you were on another forum and needed pics, which you found here?

Angelo - I don't think we have much chance of having a quick reply box. That would require coding mods to the Nabble forum and that's way above my pay grade. But I agree with you about the menu. Yesterday I slid off three times in a row trying to get to something, and it was FRUSTRATING!!! Plus, the day before Bill told me about a document that had the pages out of order. I couldn't find the document and had to ask him for a link. And even then it was really hard to find. Turns out detailed documentation on MCU's is in the Literature section. So the place needs an overhaul. But I think we need to put together a team to accomplish this. And the team should have at least the following expertise: Superb organizational skills An understanding of how Ford organized things so as we go forward we can easily slot new info into the system An understanding of how to use Weebly's various options for menus Any volunteers?????

That is good progress, and as Jim says, progress is good! Good score on the Craigslist parts. Some of those parts are hard to find. And getting the tach and ammeter working is a big plus.

Larry - Please accept my apology as well. I've realized that the process for registering is different than I'd thought, and I can see how you could have easily missed our email with directions. So, back to your original question of the size of your carb. I don't think it really matters if you are just wanting a replacement carb to get you back and forth to work while your carb is rebuilt. Basically any YF or YFA will work for an interim carb.

Yes, those could easily be light duty F250 springs. My HD F250 springs have 7 leaves and are WAY too stiff. But your are still too stiff. You have more spring capacity than axle capacity. So it surely rides roughly. My plan is to remove some leaves and add air bags. That will give me a better ride and I can get the carrying capacity back via air pressure if I need it.

Actually, I think it is a green hole: But you are right, someone will step in with a reasonably-priced solution, some day. And it would sure be nice if that '92+ one would fit.

Yes! We want everyone to participate! So, Vaughn, you'd get to show off all your work. For those of us that have made a lot of changes to our trucks, that could mean we want to provide a lot of pictures to show off the work. But, I think we will have to limit it to a small number for each truck or people won't get through all of them. Do any of you know of other virtual shows like this? If so, please provide a link as I'd like to see how they are doing it.

Steve - Please do! Rusty - The later ones still have a joint, just not as big. Jim - I think that's what is meant by "Lower-1982/88 - also replace (12/88) 3524 & 3E715" Cory - As we've discussed, that's exactly what I need to find, and for a reasonable price.

Yes, I've sometimes had to work on un-clipping the cable for several minutes to get it off. And frequently get scrapes, if not cuts, on my hands. It is a tight and unfriendly place. As for the illustration, I'd missed that Rob was looking for the wiper switch bulb location. Glad you pointed that out, Jim. And it is a nice illustration. And one that needs to be easily accessible. We have the fairly new page (Documentation/Electrical/Wire Routing) that tries to do the same thing. But as shown below, it labels everything with part numbers - which makes sense as it comes from the Master Parts Catalog. But it isn't nearly as helpful as the one above. So, where to document it? On the wire routing page?

Cool! (Literally. ) I have an underhood light to put on Big Blue but haven't yet as it sits with the hood up 100% of the time. But I'd sure like to have a really bright LED in it when I do put it on. So please tell us what you find, Scott. We need to document this.

Yes, I think you'll be fine. But, you may have to lengthen the bar a bit to get the lever where you want it. You've seen my trick to make it adjustable, right?

Jim - Sorry to see that. It is going to be a tough time for a whole lot of people. As for the newbie, apparently he can't follow directions. So, Mr Allan, what notification did you get that said you could post? (I probably have another email about this that I've not gotten to yet.)

Do they make Y fittings? Don't think I've ever seen one. But the return coming from the steering box is going to have to make a hard been with that T.

You will find those invaluable!

Folks - We have talked about this many times about the lower steering shaft. But for whatever reason I've not gotten that info documented. And now I need one but don't really want to spend a lot of money. So let's talk about them again. I've pulled the info from the MPC and I'll put it in here and then, as we get this sorted, put it on the documentation side. And it looks like I need E8TZ 3B676-A, which is the later, upgraded version that doesn't have the rubber boot. But most of what I'm finding in my searches say "discontinued part". And people that say they have them want lots of money for them. Do any of y'all know of a source? I don't need it immediately, although I'd take it ASAP. However, I can put the one out of Dad's truck in to get the lines and hoses run properly while waiting for one to ship.

Yes, the speedo cable clips to the speedo, but not to anywhere else on the dash. As for the grounds, Jim is right. There's a whole section on grounds in the 1985 EVTM. And Page 10 of that says G701 is shown on pages 67, 68, 69, and 148. Here's page 67, and it looks like it is on the instrument panel and not the cab.

I'm trying to be careful with my spending, but it isn't working very well.

Jim - Sorry, but I don't understand. What all-thread? (You can't see it in any of my pics 'cause it is laying on the toolbox, out of view. ) Dane - Dad's version had the doorknob made out of glass. Rob - I'd be thrilled to be driving it in June. All - I've turned this place upside down at least five times and CANNOT find the lower steering shaft that was on Big Blue when I pulled him apart. I have the u-joint that goes on the steering shaft, and I have the rag joint, but can't find the shaft that ties them together. So I'm going to start a new thread about finding a good replacement. And until I can get that I'm going to install the shaft that came off of Dad's truck. The boot on it is split, so I don't want to run it. But I need something installed so I can figure out where to run the brake lines, the power steering/hydroboost lines, and the dip stick. (Speaking of which, it arrived today - two weeks before it was supposed to even ship. ) I took a look today and I can see that the brake lines going down to the proportioning valve on the frame are directly in the way of the lower shaft. And I can see that the power steering hoses could also be a problem. So I need something there to hold the space.

You haven't said if you have emissions testing in your area. If not I'd recommend a Carter YF carburetor for a 1970 F350. David/1986F150Six is running one of those on his truck and it runs very well. We can get you the specifics for that. If you have emission testing then we need to find the right carb. I can do that by trying to determine the calibration code. But you'll have to tell me if your truck is an F150, 250, or 350. If it has an auto or manual trans. 2wd or 4wd. And if it was sold originally in California.