Gary Lewis

I'm not pushing back, just seeking to learn - how can you tell? What's the tip off? The wheels?

Ron - Are you saying you could make the window sticker? Clifton - It took a while for it to click with me, and I reread your post a couple of times. I think what threw me off was that the book's perspective seems off. It gets thicker to the rear. Let's see what other have to say. All - We need to have a new poll with the various options and make a decision. But there have been several iterations of the front view, so please let me know which ones are candidates and should be in the poll.

Bummer!!! The intake is PC'd, right? Then it should clean up with isopropyl alcohol. But I agree - valve covers. Time for your "new" ones. I like cast aluminum far better than tin. But if you want to run it a bit until you get the new ones ready, do as Jim said and add some spreader bars. I don't know if these fit, but they are what I used back in the day on a $%^& 350 and they worked.

Nice Mustang. On the truck, I took the liberty of turning it right side up so's I could get my head around what it is. And it looks nice!

Cool! Glad you are "there". Want me to measure how much difference there is on mine from full droop on the lift to fully on the ground? There's a whole lot more movement now than when it had TTB's and leaf springs.

So your air cleaner has a larger opening than the Sniper? Then why not make an a adapter? A simple piece of aluminum cut into a doughnut with the ID being for the Sniper and the OD for the air cleaner? I've done it before, and it works. In fact, get me accurate dimensions and send me a piece of aluminum and I'll send it back to you cut to size. I'm thinking a piece of 1/4" would be about right.

Yes, post pics and measurements. Gotta see this.

I just looked at my pile of dirty clothes that I need to run through the washer on "sanitize" to get the grease out and thought "My truck should be pretty clean by now!" Anyway, good going Angelo!

Actually, I think it was 14-20. I ran a 20-toothed thread file over it and it didn't mark it at all. And I have a 14-20 die that fit it. So I ran a 1/4-20 die down it and it just deepened the threads and took the tops off. But, you are absolutely right about the stress risers. My plan is to use the mill to radius the corners, but this way was faster for the prototype.

I'll do that tomorrow. May not be that at all. Or, I may have given it to Brandon. Will see.

I'll bet they know about the Bullnose VIN, but it won't hurt to remind them. And coming to you is a great service!

Can that be done with a 1993 also? I know Banks sells a piggyback module for the E4OD. I'd love to have it, but in the current economic situation, it's not as necessary as some other things I want and need. Still, I've read good reviews on how it improves the shifting. Cory - I think I have a piggyback module on one of my EEC-IV ECU's. Is there a way to tell what it is? I don't need it, so it is yours if you want it and if it'll work.

Wow! That's pretty low! I'll bet he doesn't own a Bullnose.

Christopher - If the vent line to your tank is plugged you'll pull a vacuum on the tank and eventually the engine will die. Have you had such problems?

You need to tell us what the problems were and how it has changed. Would be good to know.

Yes, I missed that. So, it is unopened but incomplete?

Got the prototype stay pretty well done today, as shown below. This is the same piece of scrap that I used before, but I turned it so the "leg" of the channel is pointing down. That puts more meat in the corner where I'm tapping it to take the dip stick and coil mount. In this pic the coil mount is not quite touching the stay, maybe clearing about 1/64". So when a radius is put on that corner of the stay I can bend the leg of the coil mount to go around the corner and hit a stud there. What'cha think? What changes need to be made, other than lengthening it and rounding corners? Maybe make the dip stick stand up vertically? I hope to make the real stay tomorrow, so keep those cards and letters coming it! And, speaking of studs, here's the backside of the stay showing where the hole for the dip stick stud comes out. I drilled the hole w/a #7 bit, which is a bit undersized as it calls for a #3, and tapped it 1/4-28. That's because I think the fine threads will hold up better. But, I want to use 1/4-20 nuts as that's what several other things there take and I don't want to chance using the right nut on the wrong stud. So I found a neat stud with 1/4-28 on one end and 20 tpi threads on the other. I put it in using a 1/4-20 nut on the top, and thought it was odd that the nut was able to drive the stud all the way in. Then I discovered it isn't a 1/4" stud. What do y'all think it is? So, I ran a 1/4-20 die down it and it is now just right.

Yippee! Glad Rusty is now operable! On the windshield, be aware that the VIN was moved on later trucks, and most glass companies want to install the later glass, which obscures the VIN. That caused me no end of grief when I sold one truck, so if it was my truck I'd make sure they know that you require the correct glass be installed. Lex? Used to live across the river in Purcell. They were are nemesis in football.

The way my 94 drove different may be one of the reasons why that tranny was so problematic. This E4OD in my Bronco has been great. Push the button and turn the OD off at times?

AMC started using the box in 76 and think it was used till the end in 1988. I know my 75 AMC has the Prestolite system and a 76 I had had the box. I don't know what my sons YJ Jeep had, may have been the box? but I know he also wired in a GM module and kept the box as a back up. At the time I was into AMC's I did not know of this crank / retard timing or what the color of the plugs were so I cant say it the AMC boxes had the "dial back" or not? Dave ---- Blue relief plug? https://www.ebay.com/itm/NOS-1976-1977-1978-AMC-PACER-HORNET-AMX-GREMLIN-JEEP-CJ-CHAROKEE-IGNITION-BOX-/362325827607 Or, maybe yellow??? https://www.ebay.com/i/123747047544?chn=ps Yipes! The module costs $50 and the sticker costs $100?

I'm not seeing a bed, frame, or wheels. Am I just missing them? Or is it missing them?

https://www.ebay.com/itm/ACDelco-10474610-Ignition-Igniter-Control-Module-Heat-Sink-for-Engine-xz/383397713080?epid=236337376&_trkparms=ispr%3D1&hash=item594448d4b8:g:ZHwAAOSwrfFeMpI4&enc=AQAEAAACcIQvEcHUrT7nmUC3yY5qbPyaBN1nJEDYW8MyypsJPgXKpYSzz9%2FsG0TJDO4uQ4aUXC99DBuhFIxerNUFZmNFC2Mz2IcaIr5QYlCFJJD0dW8I1LHABvMvgFmpQTEr21be8nouNERchEhb8FvsJ8Hn81TGH0gYQouGhYylGxDzNcC7W07M3h%2FY1kvDWsV46ebS%2FadV8ShbxkYuwW57upIRSSVOonWspQ9VK47iK%2BnhAjaAAoIhuN7DSny4TBve9s4BBgTlrWUGox0fj896N3zCUrphR9kMhbMQJN%2FUxmCxy1%2BnMMRvx50EiXhw5oVThRO%2FIMbbJmkr6jRwyUuCRxgmN7Qr4U%2FXBLorw4wx2QYW3J8vvKD%2BxIEBqNACb6WxbskPEzHW99u%2Fcqrf4JX6M2TAnktVP9k1PdIo7ydqvlPUHZBIeJjq9NLG7uahGKne5OdYLnhKlSbBXdt7Z8%2Fk%2B7HK5f8T666ZtA4jfWjLFTb6Hil1Q8QT%2FPTUSthT%2BTF8UH5gsJo0%2FkMZIs%2FaJmKLKMTLF25gnEuqUPN4J3AW0AxrVJwz4QL5HMDg1ZLfHQl%2BGQNUpLq1On8BAPKdYUqzh62I3PkHI5RrAf1v8JUo8iF%2FcFSmrkUbqODOeEdhCbCPwlvD6F0sygiZ3ScQ%2BRcvaCSa%2B6SU%2BJmwQhKl12CCgaoC0VN4UsFo%2BCZrcNOJdx3iPQ1dpi%2FU%2FUMV73D5zH6zBuUXWL0lV1LQPHDXSAZXiS3W5U5qipfuCq6psd89sdTwciFmomoFWpfe2DlqNfy7m1r9qroZEaWlto9YP3N%2FArKr%2F%2FK6UHh49Kx0jCnJf97TYOThdg%3D%3D&checksum=383397713080fd1acef7452540ea994b04e3a7103365 That's cool! I didn't know there's a purpose-made heat sink for that.

Pete - You certainly did make me look! But, I like what I see. Looks like a very complete package, and I can't wait to see how it works On your pic of the shroud, it was small enough that I had trouble seeing where you'd cut it. So I've blown it up to 100% by placing this text in the string: width="100%". And now I can see the cutouts.

Kyle - First, don't let anyone tell you that this is a site for Bullnose trucks and an E-Series van doesn't qualify. Just go ask the guys with van-based RV's who are active on here. However, we don't have the E-specific wiring diagrams. Ours are pickup and Bronco diagrams. So I can only assume that the vans might be wired the same. I put together this page (Documentation/Fuel Systems/Fuel Systems Wiring) that attempts to lay out how the Bullnose vehicles are wired. Maybe that will help. As for the tank selector relay's placement, on a truck it is on the driver's side of the firewall under the hood, just outboard of the brake master cylinder. And there are two versions - one with the relay in a holder along with another relay, and one with the relay screwed to the firewall by itself. The page below from the 1986 EVTM shows the version in the holder. As for the 5-7 volts, that is probably the signal to the gauge, but if it is it should be pulsing. The oil pressure, coolant temp, and fuel level gauges are driven by the Instrument Cluster Voltage Regulator, which is a misnomer if ever there was one, and it just gives pulsing voltage to the gauges. So the signal from the sender to the gauge should not be steady on your meter. Hopefully this will get you started and we can troubleshoot some more.

Kyle - You are now on the map. And, as you are about the third person that's successfully navigated the new joining process we just implemented, I'd be interested in knowing how it worked for you. It needs to be easy but yet keep spammers out. Also, a signature might help us, assuming some of your questions will be about the E350. (Yes, I know that's in your handle, and I know you made it the title of your new thread, but it might still help.) Instructions on creating a signature are in Bullnose Forum/Forum FAQ's. And, if you'd out "Kyle" in the sign it would be lots nicer than typing "NotmyE350" each time.