Gary Lewis

I was going to ask to whom we wanted to extend an invitation. On the truck side we could invite those on the Facebook pages. However, we don't know many of those people and don't know how responsible they are. I don't think we want a bunch of cowboys that make a lot of noise and cause problems. So, how do we figure out who should go? Or, whom we should invite?

Cool! Looks like you've already been on the TAT - at least the CO portion.

Very nice! I don't think I've seen a Bronco set up quite that way. But that's a lot of money. However, it is probably only half of what it'd get as a true restoration. (Saying "restoration" and MSD and fiberglass body and Holley and ..... just bugs me.)

I see the Zumo XT, and it looks good. But you'll probably want to power it off the bike as the 6 hours it'll run on regular settings doesn't seem to be enough.

I have a soft spot in my heart for Germany, so am thrilled we can help. Here's a pic from yesterday of my grandtwins and I, and you may see what I mean:

LOL! Yes, I had to use washers. This is a one-size-sorta-fits-all thing, and those never fit anything well. As for length, you are right that the legs are going to be in the way. But that may be preferable to the pain of having to dream up ways to get the legs to miss each other. That's been a major issue every time I pulled an engine.

That's a steal if it goes for that.

Will do, Rob. We are having a blast. We've spent several days shooting off the water rockets, and have more of that to come. And, we've spent three days at the lake, with more to come as well.

Well done, Cameron!

Dave - You have an excellent point. Usually the way I pull an engine is with two chains, and each chain goes from one head to the other. That lets me adjust the angle of the engine w/o using the load balancer, which adds too much space. But that means there's no chance of swiveling the engine once it is pulled. So, why not put the engine stand on the shop crane the other way 'round? Meaning point the flywheel toward the front of the shop crane. That way you don't have to set it down nor turn it around. Any problem with that? As for folding, both my shop crane and engine stand fold up fairly small. You can see that in this pic of the engine stand, but the crane folds up the same way, with the legs going over center and angling back a bit and the boom going almost straight down.

They certainly did have fun. As did I. Both of them asked at different points what the turn signal bulb is on the driver's side as it was hanging out of the opening on the radiator support. So when we were done I hooked up the battery and showed them. Then I tried to show them the marker lights, only to find that the driver's side wasn't working and the passenger's side bulb wasn't in the lens. I couldn't get my hand in either side with the batteries there, but they were able to get in there and fix things. As for the bosun's chair, the boom doesn't come down all the way to the floor, so I don't think it can hit them if we keep the chain short. But that's our next project, and I'll be sure to make sure it can't hit and pad it if it can. Thanks. And they certainly are growing! Janey measures them each time they are here and both have grown ~4" since last fall. Here's a pic of us together:

Sounds like you are making good progress. But, it doesn't take much of a leak to raise the idle. A cracked vacuum line, or one that is off, or even a bad power brake booster can do it. So if you put a tach on it and find that it is idling too high pull all the vacuum lines and plug the ports and see what happens.

That is not part number E4TZ 1433-D since there is no such part number. That is the ID#. Instead it is probably part number E4TZ 1432-A, although the MPC shows E0TZ 1432-A was replaced by MAT, and I don't know what "MAT" stands for. But it is for a Bronco.

Man, that is PRICEY! 80/86 F—U100/350 — w/horizontal pads E1TZ 17757-C Chrome

You are now, quite literally, on the map.

Mine isn't rated as I designed and built it. But it is actually copied from a heavy duty stand a neighbor had which had metric-sized material. I used inch-sized material so upped everything to the next size and it became rather beefy. It has grease fitting for the head also, which allows rotating even a 460 fairly easily - if you center the mass. But if you don't get it centered it can be a bear to rotate.

Welcome! Apparently Jim beat me to the punch and you are already promoted to Member and are now able to post in the main section where you might want to start a thread about your truck. Belgrade, Montana? Hadn't heard of it, but I see it on the map. Speaking of map, we have one: Bullnose Forum/Member's Map in the menu. Would you like to be on it? As for the truck, I hope you'll post some pics. We love to see other's projects.

Ok, time for an update! The twins helped me in the shop, and we got several things accomplished. First, we removed all of the rusted screws and nuts from the Warn bumper and replaced them with stainless. Initially I had them hold the ratchet with the Allen bit on it to keep the button-headed screws from turning, but after that worked so well they turned the ratchet to tighten the nuts from the bottom. In fact, in a couple of places it was a huge pain for me to reach back into a recess to get two of the nut/washer combos on, so they did it. Here they are with the finished bumper: However, the two bolts on the front, those carriage bolts, didn't pan out quite how I'd planned. The stainless bolts I ordered were too small. Here they are holding the original bolts after they media-blasted them and we powder coated them Reflective Chrome. But in the background you can see some of the tools we used, including chrome polish, which they used to remove the rust from the original bolts and screws. And, you can see the "bull horn", which they delighted in honking. (If it is a bull horn would it bellow?) We compared it to the factory horn, which they declared wimpy. The bull horn was a winner! And then, with the work done they played with the shop crane. I think I need to rig up a seat so they can take turns raising and lowering each other with it.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Ford-flexplate-70s-80s-engine-D1AZ-6375A-never-used-325/264753001876?hash=item3da4823594:g:598AAOSwGTBe2F8c MY GOODNESS! That is NOT GOLD!

Yeah, the legs of my crane are too close together. Neither of my engine stands will fit between them. And I designed the crane as well as the engine stand I built. So, I could rebuild either the crane or the engine stand, neither of which would be fun, or build the new "H". I think that would be easier, and if I don't like it I'll go back to the existing base.

Looking at their combo vs my engine stand it looks like I'd just have to make the "H" that theirs sits on and bolt my upright to it. I can see that their "H" is adjustable width-wise to allow placing it at various places down the legs, which would somewhat be determined by how long the engine is as well as how far you have the boom out. And I see that the "C's" that fit down over the legs of the shop crane are canted to account for the angle of the legs. Plus, the rear "C's" have a pin on their skirts to hold them to the legs. What am I missing? What improvements do you see?

Glad you got it sorted, Rob.

Not very good. But I can read some English. However, after that video it went right into this one:

Some of you will remember my problems trying to move an engine from the engine stand to the shop crane, or vice versa. For those that don't, the legs hit each other and it is a HUGE pain to make the transfer. Today I got the new Summit catalog and found the combo unit shown below. So before I go chop up my engine stand to fit on the shop crane's legs, please tell me why I shouldn't. Yes, I realize that it'll be much more awkward/bigger. But it may well be worth it.

I think it is time for a ground relay given all you've been through. The downside is that the FPR will be pulled in and the pumps running any time the key is in Run. On the trucks like Big Blue there is an oil pressure switch that closes when the engine is running. I don't know if the ECA has safety systems like that, but you'll be bypassing them. So just be aware. Oh, what about in Start? Will the FPR be pulled in then?