Gary Lewis

There's a fair amount of stuff to report today. First, I got the parts for the fuel system on order: Fuel Pressure Reguator: Was going to order the Holley 12-887 black return-style regulator, as previously discussed. In fact I had it in the cart at Amazon, but today they said Out Of Stock and they didn't have a projected date for getting it. Long story short, no one has that regulator and even Holley says it'll be August 28th before they get it. However, there's a polished version of the same regulator, 12-881, for the same price that is supposed to be in stock tomorrow. It is on order. Rear FDM: With some testing, which I'll report in the other thread, I determined that an FDM for a side tank sits at the wrong angle for a rear tank. But I found this Spectra Premium SP2009H Fuel Hanger Assembly with Pump and Sending Unit for Ford F Series, and ordered it. Should be here on Saturday. But I may have to lower the FDM and sending unit on the hanger to get it to pick up all the gas from the tank that is twice the size it was made for. Front FDM: I also ordered the Spectra Premium SP2006H Fuel Hanger Assembly with Pump and Sending Unit for Ford F Series. It, like the 2009, is a complete unit including a pigtail so I can change the harness to the later style. But, it won't be here until some time between the 7th and 12. About then the HVAC plenum gaskets were delivered and I got the plenum and the heater hoses installed. Still have the fender liner to put back to the fender, but that won't take long. And I have to change the harness to match the later wiring that goes with this plenum. But that's not a big deal either. So, tomorrow it'll be wiring and maybe coolant system testing.

Congrat's!!! So, you'd stopped at ~2 cans and it took 5? I'll bet that made a huge difference.

You are now on the map. And I hope you find what you need. Don't miss that we are having a virtual truck show: Truck Shows/2020 Truck Show in the menu.

Well, interiors are part of the truck and there's an Ugliest Truck class, so... By the way, we are up to six entries, with one from Germany. So we've gone "international", and I sure hope we'll have lots more.

Add Me and Dan Suggest to Edit your post and remove your email. Done. And I agree - Dan should remove his email address.

If you say so I'll believe you. But I can't remember yesterday, much less 11 years ago. Somehow we need to pull the collective wisdom about locks and keys together and document this stuff.

Good luck. That's going to be a pain. As for moving posts, I'm happy to if you tell me which ones. However, I'm not sure it is necessary. Your call.

Well done, Jonathan! I know nothing about door locks, or even ignition locks, so I'm along for the ride on that one.

You are correct about the usage and Torque being a display application. In my setup I won't have any ICVR's, right? Those are just for mechanical gauges? Since these are 2 terminal sensors I will be running a power and a ground to each. Here is where it's going to show that I have no experience with electrical circuits at this level and themistors... How many amps would one sensor pull (I feel like I am missing something obvious by asking this)? How do I figure out if I can put all of those on the single 5v pin of the arduino? The answers to the amps will likely cover this but you lost me a bit on the 16awg and the cat6 as those are very different in the awg of the wires. Let's forget the cat6 and say I will be running normal automotive wire. I can run 16awg but is that needed? Seems like most arduino sensors are running more around the 20awg and smaller wire although length is unknown to me on those. I don't think I'd go smaller than 18 for durability but I am running out of space in my firewall penetration so 18 would be preferable over 16. Jim - PLEASE add your answers. Scott - That Arduino looks good. One of the many reasons I've not bought an Arduino to play with is that they are evolving rapidly, and new ones like this one come out frequently. The addition of Bluetooth is a big help. But, just make sure that if you need daughter boards or modules, like to control lots of current, they are available for that unit. I doubt you will need daughter boards, but just in case. As for the kit, is it associated with Arduinos? Like sold by people that also sell Arduinos? It looks like it should work fine from what I can see. But I ask because if it is they might have the tables or code to convert the output to temp. No, you won't have an ICVR. The Arduino will provide 5v to send to the "sensor" so it can then read the voltage returned. But, this reference says "The 5V output pin is good for ~400 mA on USB, ~900 mA when using an external power adapter." So the total you can draw depends on the source for the Arduino itself. Do you know the resistance range of the sensors? You could easily calculate the current. I=E/R. You know E=5 so if if you knew the range of R you'd have it. For instance, a Bullnose sending unit has a range of 12 to 72 ohms. At full temp the 12 ohms would give you 5/12 = 417 ma. Obviously you won't want to use many of those, but maybe the Chevy one is a higher resistance? Which brings us to wire size. 16ga is way overkill, and the WireBarn site shows that even 22ga wire can easily handle .5A for 20 feet. But the 20 or 22ga wire that might be more appropriate is harder to work with. So that's your call.

With that you may be able to weld and grind, weld and grind, and get the old part serviceable? Good luck!!!

This is a huge bummer! I'm not finding that part either, and the t-cases I find on-line are very expensive. I know you have lots of parts on hand, but have you check Craigslist for someone selling a t-case locally?

Boy, you sure are having "fun" with that. Wish I had one to send you.

Well, that's an idea I'd not thought of, mainly because I wasn't willing to spend that kind of money. But, Rock Auto has a # for the Motorcraft part, F6TZ9A407DB, so I checked Rear Counter and Bob Allen Ford has one. Too early to call them, but I'm sure I won't like the price as RA's price is $345. So I googled that number and found several hits, most around $400 and several saying it doesn't come with the sending unit, which is another $119. However, the several pictures of it I saw show that it has the standard fuel pump module but dropped down a couple of inches farther from the hanger than the ones I have. So I'll look into the possibility of doing just that - extending the tubes on the hanger to lower the pump & sending unit.

Actually, the ~3" stovepipe had burlap wrapped around it for insulation. But, when it got wet it served to rust the pipe out. I replaced all of that and you had the choice of warm oil-laden air going toward the windshield or toward your feet. Note that I didn't say "to" your feet or "to" the windshield as it didn't really get that far. Anyway, E3 was used in some, E6 in others, and then there was E7. So, what are you going to do?

Yeah, I think a lot of them probably go into spam. But there's not much else we can do. We now have 5 entries for the show. Things are hopping!

I'm thinking I'm just not looking in the right place for the complete unit. For a 1995 Bronco RA has the pump module w/o the hanger or the sending unit - the SPECTRA PREMIUM SP154 - for $45.79. And, they have the sending unit - the LILAND GLOBAL SUFD61 - for $56.99. So for $102.78 you get both but have to use your old hanger. Amazon has the Spectra Premium SP154 for $44.94, but I can't find the sending unit or the hanger. Contrast that with Amazon having the Spectra Premium SP2006H Fuel Hanger Assembly with Pump and Sending Unit for $83.50. Yep, the whole shooting match, hanger, pump, and sending unit. And it is for a 19 gallon mid-ship tank for a 1995 F350 w/a 460. I have the equivalent of the SP2006H, meaning the one for the 19 gallon side tank, and tomorrow I'll put it in the 38 gallon rear tank and see what would need to be done to make that work. The floats and arms come out of those things pretty easily, so I wonder if I can make a float/arm combo to put into the SP2006 and use it in the 38 gallon tank. Then when the unit needs to be changed they can re-use the float and arm.

Welcome to the forum. But you were asked to go to the New Members Start Here folder to do your first post. That's because that is where the guidelines are and we want to make sure you have had an opportunity to read them because you will be held to them. So, can you assure me that you've read them? Next, where's home? I ask because we have a map (Bullnose Forum/Member's Map in the menu) and if we had a city or a zip we'd add you. And, I'm not sure I understand your post. I think you are saying you are looking for an '86 5.0L EFI harness and a standalone controller for the E4OD. Is that right? But the "aod" part lost me. If so, which harness are you looking for? There are quite a few harnii in a truck, and for the most part they are the same regardless of engine. So is it the engine harness? On the E4OD controller, the diesel trucks had a standalone controller for the E4OD. None of the gas trucks did. But it isn't likely anyone here will have one as this is a Bullnose forum and the E4 came out after our time. However, it won't hurt to ask.

The Swiss parts of the frame appear to be in good condition...that is, the frame rails themselves are mostly fine. It might need a patch or two in the rear, but that's just typical stuff for around here. That doesn't bother me. That's relatively easy Saturday afternoon stuff. The Mildly bad is that it needs a couple crossmembers. The one under the rear of the cab is bad...and they always are around around here. Eventually the cab mounts fall right through the crossmember. That's not the end of the world...they can be fixed with the frame saver kits...or just steel plate. I don't mind doing that. The difficult part is that the angled brackets are bad...or the gussets that run from the bottom of the frame rails to the bottoms of the crossmembers. These are unique pieces...the ones under the rear of the cab have the access holes for the cab mounts, and the ones aft of the cab fit against the gas tank. Thankfully they were the same for 17+ years....but getting them is the hard part. They're surely not easy to remove from a parts truck. The worst part so far are the front frame horns. They're bent...both of them, significantly. Straightening them is not really going to work. I can cut them off and replace them...and the passenger side seems very easy...it's just a piece of bare channel really, but the driver's side is a little more complicated with the steering box structure. I stopped by the junkyard today on the way home from a small trip, and the parts I need are all there...nice condition stuff too, but how to remove them?...That's a lot of rivets to drill out while laying on your back in the gravel...lol. There's a 1996 F150 there with what appears to be a southern frame under it. Crossmembers are mint...so I'm contemplating laying in the gravel... There's also an '86 there with perfect front frame horns. I guess if I can get the two core support bolts out, I could cut the horns off with a recip saw?... I really don't know...I'm just rolling it all around in my head. You are spoilt for choice, as they say in the UK. Lots of options, we'd say. But, is it worth it to resurrect the 1980 frame? How is the '86 frame? I ask because drilling all of those rivets is NOT easy. My approach finally came to an air chisel to take the head off and then drilling what was left to take the pressure off. Then you can drive them out. But it is SLOW.

Thanks, guys. That's the way I'm leaning. And, good idea on bending the arm, Bruce. But, I'm not finding a full FDM for a '95 Bronco. Just the pump module w/o the sender. Can anyone else find one?

Easy - the full FDM's, inc the later sending units. However, even then the Bronco FDM will be for a 33 gallon tank and I'm using a 38 gallon one. I think I'm going to lengthen the arm, but they won't have to as it'll still work. The reading will be off, with probably 5 gallons left in the tank when the gauge says it is empty.

You really have it stripped. That alternator is surely from an '86. So you are probably right that the engine is as well. So, how bad is the frame?

Yes, those tires are perfect. With little sidewall the wheels will be bent easily. And when you air those tires down they'll come right off the beads. I think the winch is 'cause he knows he's going to need it - maybe in his own driveway?

Speaking of fuel, I pulled out the FDM's as well as the pump and sending unit out of BB's mid-ship tank. As explained in the School Me On Fuel Deliver Module thread, I succeeded in getting one FDM apart. But it was a royal battle and one I'm not interested in doing again. So I'm pretty sure I'm going to order in two new FDMs. But first I'll put these FDM's in the tanks and make sure the orientation is correct as they are tabbed. However, I have a conundrum. The new FDMs will come with new sending units, and my plan has been to build the Arduino and convert the later sender's output to work with the Bullnose gauges. However, I've realized that the sending units on the FDMs screw on the side of the module. So I could easily make a bracket to hold a Bullnose sending unit on the side of an FDM. And, I think I actually have the sending units, courtesy of Vernon. While that wasn't the plan, I believe I should consider it. But I'm looking for your input.

We were having lots of "fun" with that thing. It had a valve seat come loose and it chewed up the head, badly. The transaxle was making ugly noises. The heater was essentially nonexistent, and back then in Kansas it got COLD in the winter.

Ok, got the fuel delivery modules out today. One was literally trailing rust everywhere I took it. Obviously toast. So that was my guinea pig. I pulled the sending unit, which comes off easily with three screws and then un-plugs from the connector. But the sending unit wasn't continuous in its sweep. Then I decided to take the plastic housing off to get to the pump and valves. Man, that was a chore! There are several, like maybe seven, plastic snaps that have to be freed. But if you get one or two on one side when you work on the other side you hear SNAP and you lost the first side. I finally got out some small screws and when I got one loose I put a screw in to keep it apart. But even then it probably took me close to an hour to finally get it apart. And it was full of rust. Given that, I'm pretty sure I do not want to replace the pumps w/in the housing. Instead, I think I'm going to buy the complete FDMs. But first I'll spend time tomorrow to make sure that the FDM's fit the tanks properly. I'll pick this discussion up in Big Blue's Transformation thread as there are other aspects that are specific to Big Blue.