Gary Lewis

Yep, that's pretty good. But I'll bet it is colder on the vents on the passenger's side as they are closer to the evap.

You are now, quite literally, on the map!

Welcome, Dan! Nice truck. Yep, the fuel systems on these trucks are the biggest problems. And some of the valves that switch between tanks are hard to find, and expensive when you do. So, where's home? Northern Idaho? We have a map (Bullnose Forum/Member's Map in the menu) and we'd be happy to put you on it if we had a city or zip. And, don't miss that we are having a virtual truck show. Read all about it at Truck Shows/2020 Truck Show in the menu.

Man is that the truth! when in high school I worked part time at a dealer ship body shop, dad ran it but not why I got the job. Any way one day a new car came in off the truck as 2 different cars! 1 side was an Aspen and the other side a Volare I don't remember what the VIN said it was but we had to change the wrong side to what it should have been. If I had not seen it with my own eyes I would not have believed it. Dave ---- LOL! Yes, I know that happens. In the early 70's I was working with a guy that swore by GMC pickups. Several of us tried to tell him that they come off the same line as the Chevy trucks and that other than badging and the number of headlights they were the same. He wouldn't listen and ordered a GMC. Sure enough, when it came in it said GMC on one side and Chevrolet on the other. Boy, was he MAD!!!!

I don’t think it would hurt. But I don’t think it is necessary. Obviously don’t flush the receiver/drier.

That will work fine. Good luck!

That's quite a truck! I doubted the AOD behind a 428, but the gearshift indicator sure seems to back it up. He forgot the aftermarket gauges in his writeup. But they sure look good. I think they are the Dakota Digital gauges.

No, the drier has a desiccant in it that absorbs moisture so has to be kept capped. But the evaporator and condenser are just tubing with fins welded to it. So you flush it out and then it would be good to cap them just to keep any bugs or dust out of them. What I did was to flush everything but the drier, and then cap them. Once I had the truck where I could add them I did and connected them all via the hoses. So the system is sorta "tight", but I still need to replace the drier and all of the o-rings, pull a vacuum, and then charge it.

That's a nice tent, but bigger than I plan to go with. I'm shooting for one that sleeps two. And, the idea of placing it higher to get more access to the bed is exactly my plan. Bullnose trucks are anything but aerodynamic, so I'm not bothered with the idea of the tent being up in the slipstream. But I do want to be able to get to things in the bed easily. Another thought I've had is figuring out a way to provide power inside the tent. I'm thinking that lighting and being able to keep a phone or tablet charged would sure be nice. I always charge my mobile devices at night, so would want my phone by me. And if we get a rainy day and stay in the tent a while it would be nice to be able to keep them topped up. But rainy days aren't a problem for you in GB - right?

Flush it out. The parts stores have the stuff for flushing. I'm told that some have it in spray cans w/a fitting to go to the part or hose. But mine has it in pints or gallons. I bought an pint first and it wasn't enough for everything and then bought a gallon. I poured it in and then rotated the part many different ways to ensure the liquid got to all parts, and then hit it with compressed air. A few rounds of that and everything came out nice and clean.

Starter info, including PMGR's, is at Documentation/Engines/Starters. In my opinion, PMGR is the only way to go.

I think your plan to get the engine together and put a single-snorkel HO air cleaner on and figure out where to attach the second one is the best approach. And you may find you need a different breather. But with the right droop to the snorkel you may not have a problem. On the heated air, yes it is possible to have icing. I remember a few times in the six years we lived in Katy where it got cold and was humid. But usually the cold comes after a front passes through and pushes the humidity out in the Gulf. I think I'd try it w/o the hot air ducting. You can always add it if needed.

The carb shown in your pictures and videos is the Carter YFA. There's a pic of the VV below, and it is a very different, and unusual carb. You can see our documentation on the YFA here: http://www.garysgaragemahal.com/carter-yfa-1bbl.html But I'm having trouble reading the tag. It looks like it says E5PE and then there appear to be two or three characters after that, before the 772 on the next line. I find plenty of E5PE carbs, but need the characters after that to nail it down.

Thanks. I think Florida is in shock, and this is just one more knock in a series of them.

I've gotten a lot of parts and support from them. And if I was buying a t-case or transmission that's where I'd go.

The 4.9 never came with the VV. You should have the Carter YFA. If the choke isn't controlled by a spring then remove the black cover and the problem is probably in there. And if you are idling high with the idle screw backed out then you have a vacuum leak. A hose may be off, the carb may be loose on the manifold, or you may have a cracked line. But a high idle is the result of a vacuum leak.

Looks great! Can't tell, but I'm guessing NP208?

Glad you can move your trucks. You don't want more tree damage to them. My Palm Beach Gardens kids are in Colorado and fly back on Sunday - to Orlando. So they may have some issues. The other set of kids are in Charleston, and they may have problems as well. Thank you, Isaias.

Basically none of Ford's dual snorkel air cleaners were balanced, meaning had both snorkels coming off at the same angle left vs right. But my cleaner cleared the valve covers for my Scorpion rockers on Dad's engine. So I think you can get it done. Mock it up and play with it some. I really think it'll work. And save for the piece that goes directly to the radiator support, all of the Ford cold air pieces work on the driver's side. However the one that goes to the radiator support is going to take some surgery. Also, since you have EFI and don't need heated air, you can cut the fitting for heated air off each snorkel and that gives you a bit more clearance.

Those are cool!

If the choke has no spring to it then it isn't set up correctly. When the engine is cold and you slightly open the throttle the bimetallic spring should close the choke to within ~1/8" of being fully closed. And it will be held there by spring pressure. As the bimetallic spring warms up it slowly uncoils and causes the choke to open until it will stand straight up and down. And, it will be held there by some spring tension. But you say the engine is now running well at idle? Have you tried to drive it yet? EDIT: I forgot the filter. I've seen bubbling in filters on most trucks, and I don't know why. So if yours runs right I wouldn't worry about it.

I forgot to say that I also ran the pressure up, and right at the 13 psi marked on the cap I started hearing air coming out of the overflow hose. Just a very very slight hiss at first that was difficult to even hear, but it grew as I increased the pressure. I took it on up to 15 psi where it was flowing pretty well out of the overflow, but backing off had it close up again at 13 psi. And, as said, I left it at about 4:00 with 10 psi showing on the gauge. Just checked, 2 1/2 hours later and it is down to zero. But, I'm not sure that the regulator itself doesn't leak, so I don't know that I need to be worried. It would be nice if I had a ball valve between the gauge and the regulator so I could close the valve and still see the pressure.

Good point Gary! And I'm hoping to drive mine at least for a short while with the whoosh... I haven't tested the brake booster or the check valve yet. But I did take the truck to the engine builder to have a chat. He gave me tips on setting the timing and tuning the carb using a vacuum gauge. I bought a timing light but I couldn't see the timing mark, could have been the angle of the light or the mark was still off the gauge. Anyway, he also said running rich would prevent the rings from seating, but that the oil on the plugs weren't unusual initially. So I bought a gauge and checked things over. Only got just over 15inHG with the distributor as far as I could adjust it... He said I should get 18+. So I stopped there and filed down the base of the dizzy yesterday. This morning I tried again and managed 20inHg right off the bat! I was able to increase it to 22, but I heard what I thought was pinging. More like a ticking, but I backed it off to just above 20 anyway. I then tried adjusting the carb, I got it leaner just a bit, but not an awful lot. The vacuum pressure wouldn't increase, so I just adjusted both sides leaner until the pressure and rpm dropped. I left the idle Rpm at 750ish. I then took Eddy for a drive back out to the gas station. No stuttering/vibration at all. So I guess the timing had something to do with it in addition to a loose wire. It pulled smooth in 4th regardless of Rpm. I filled up with probably the last tank of ethanol free... 103 miles, 13.34G. Taking into account the odo error of 15%, that's 8.88Mpg... So I'm hoping the poor timing and rich mixture is largely to blame for that. To be fair my heavy right foot is probably the main culprit. I mean I was advised to drive it like I stole it. I'm pretty sure car thieves don't get great gas mileage... The engine builder said to just drive it normally, maybe shifting a little later since I can with the manual. So I will on this next tank. Of course there is still the brake issue, but at both the gas station and back home the hubs were significantly cooler than before and I could even touch the rotors without burning my fingers. Hopefully that issue is sorting itself out, I'll give it another 100 miles before I dig into that. I'm really hoping for 15Mpg driving sedately (60Mph max) on back roads once everything is sorted. I'm glad things are going well. And, your vacuum at idle is good. However, I've never heard pinging at idle. And I doubt that's what you heard. But it sounds as if the engine is starting to run well. Congrat's!

Yes, I built a dual-snorkel air cleaner for Dad's truck, and it is chronicled here on FTE: https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1291332-dads-air-cleaner.html. With the info there you can make one to clear your A/C compressor. You want to start with a 351HO air cleaner as it has a steel base, and then position the to-be hole where the snorkel hits. However, as explained in that thread, there are several snorkels with different droop and exit angles. So you will want to look for the right snorkel. However, I think that thread also points out that you can drill the spot welds, reposition the bits of the snorkel, and either weld it or braze it back together to get the angle and droop you want.

Mine have been: