Gary Lewis

Thanks, Rob. Both tanks show to be arriving tomorrow, and the one sending unit isn't even here yet but should be very soon. However the roll-over valves and gaskets won't be here for a week. Still, I have plenty of work to do 'twixt now and then on getting the tanks in and the nylon tubing run. So I suspect I can easily keep busy. And there's the issue of filler hoses that I need to address in all of this. Filling Big Blue previously was a very slow process and I don't want that again, so I'm hoping to go with the later filler hose arrangement, which is surely what the tanks are designed for. So more research is due there. Yes, I'm getting close! And I'm anxious. But I want to do it correctly and make sure there are no problems on startup. So there's lots of checking, which is paying off like on the cooling system.

Yes, I see how little engagement it has. So the slop is allowing the plate to move in/out? Shims?

I think Ron/reamer is making the brackets. You can read about his efforts here: http://forum.garysgaragemahal.com/Making-Flareside-rear-bumper-brackets-td47731.html. And yes, Dave's Flareside has the rare option of dual tanks. So rare his is the only one.

I had fits with the shift mechanism on the 1345. Turned out that there were lots of different ways it could go in, and while the instructions told me how to do it they weren't very clear. Once I finally found "the way" then the instructions made sense. On the splines, they'd have to be really sloppy not to move the plate, wouldn't they? On the 1345 it really did NOT want to shift until I finally found "the way". It didn't want to do much of anything. And even when I did get it together correctly it took a large Crescent wrench on the shifter lever to shift it. I couldn't do it by hand. But with the Crescent it snicks in crisply.

Take the dash pad off. There are screws in the defroster vents and then screws holding the instrument & radio bezels to the pad, and on the right a few screws holding the pad to the dash frame. But there are several other screws on the right that hold other things to the dash frame, so don't just take all the screws out. Instead, loosen them and see which ones move when you pull up, gently, on the dash pad. Once the pad is off you can see a lot of things, and may be able to clean a lot of it up. But it sounds as if they've been in the HVAC vents, and those are a pain to take out. However, from the top it can be done if I remember correctly.

Right. I forgot the LED part. And you are right, they can't pass current backwards. So LED dual bulbs are going to just not work if there's no ground, where incandescent bulbs will do all sorts of strange things w/o a ground, depending on what is in the other circuit. That's going to make troubleshooting circuits with LED's quite different. Interesting!

I love it when a plan comes together, even when it is Plan B. (Or, in my case, Plan Z.) So, I'll await the coming announcement.......

Yes, nice truck. Obviously not an '87. In fact, it shouldn't be an '86 as it has idiot lights and they discontinued those for '86. But with the burlwood it should be an '85.

I think Jim's onto something. Let me say what I think he's saying another way. With the harness connected and with no ground on the 1157 the power goes through the taillight filament of the 1157 then through the stop light filament and out into the stop light circuit and uses every bulb connected to that circuit as a load to ground. But with the harness disconnected there is nothing out there to sink the current and the voltage goes to 12. Jim - Is that what you are saying?

Glad to see that. Our son, in Palm Beach Gardens, didn't mention it. Instead he wanted to know how to unclog an A/C drain. Our daughter, in Charleston, said "Oh, there's a storm? Yeah, the kids said it rained some."

I'll test mine tomorrow. But, I can't say that mine is a working speed control since I've not used it yet. But, I do have a spare so might be able to test both.

Ok, I pulled the trigger on the rear tank/FDM combo, the front tank, and two roll-over valves and gaskets - which don't appear to be in the kit with the other stuff. Tanks to be here Wednesday, so tomorrow I can start clearing things out to install them. And, when the dust settles, I'll have a 38 gallon Bronco tank, straps, pumps, etc for sale.

Jacob - What coil were you running? A high-intensity coil will kill a DS-II module. But I agree that having Scotty curve a new dizzy is the way to go. Jim - You mean this? As you know, the idea of having a spare module under the seat is all well and good, but why not have it "to hand"? Also, your point about the retard function is spot-on. Not all modules have it, but Big Blue's old 460 didn't like to start w/o it. With it, piece of cake.

Even the M-block/Cleveland 2V heads have big ports. A member, Brandon/Bruno2, came over to get a pair of Windsor heads from me. I told him were they were and he came back with the 2V heads. I showed him the difference to Windsor ports and he was shocked.

Yes, you may have an alternator going out on you, causing the belt squeal. And if the alternator is toast you should seriously consider replacing the regulator. When I bought my new 1G alternator it said "You need to replace the regulator." I didn't, and had to go back to the store as it was also bad.

I think you have an electrical problem. It could be a bad battery that isn't holding a charge, a bad alternator that isn't charging the battery enough, bad cables that aren't getting the juice to the starter, or something in the system that is draining the battery as the vehicle sits. Does your truck have gauges or warning lights? If the latter has the battery warning light been on? Do you have a digital volt meter? If so, check the battery's voltage. A fully charged battery should be around 12.6 - 12.8 volts. If the battery is charged then you probably have a cable problem. Check the connections of your cables coming from the battery for loose or corroded connections.

Looks good! How much more do you have to do?

I think from 1980 through the mid-90's all bolt in, assuming the seats come from a truck with the same floor pan as yours.

Yes, the seats are unsafe, especially with the belts anchored to them. I would go back with a stock seat bolted into the stock locations, which seem to be ok from the pics unless I missed something. Stock from a Bullnose or, if you want buckets, stock from the mid-90's using the platform. If you haven't, read the page at Documentation/Interior/Seat Interchangeability. It explains about the different cab floors, which helps you understand why some seats fit and some don't.

Yes, he might have a case. That is awful! And it looks like at least one of the bolts is a G2.

https://www.rearcounter.com/EOTZ-7E363-A-parts217438.html Well done, David!

Not bad at all.

Thanks, Scott. Yes, I have the skid plates for both the side and the rear. And while the smaller tank does have advantages for the spare tire, my spare will go in the bed until I get the bumper/tire carrier built. But it doesn't really change the exhaust routing as the larger tank is just deeper, not wider or longer, and the exhaust pipes have to go around it. Anyway, thanks.

That is sad. I'm constantly amazed at how people mount seats. And you say the belts attached to those seats?

I fear I've lost everyone! But I have a new plan and want your input, so will try to keep this shortish. First, I called Spectrum today and talked to Richard. Turns out they don't make a full fuel delivery module, meaning hanger/pump/sending unit for the Broncos. Just the pump. And I don't have a hanger or sending unit. In fact, no one but Motorcraft makes the complete fuel delivery module and those run about $400 each. Then I'd have to add a 33 gallon tank, which is another ~$100, so we are at $500. Given that, I think I'm going to ditch the idea of a 33 or 38 gallon rear tank from a Bronco. So for the rear I'm going with a Spectra Premium F1G1FA, which is their 18 gallon rear tank with the full FDM installed. It is only $137 delivered from Amazon, so that's a no-brainer. As for the front tank, the Spectra Premium tank/FDM combo is F6C1FA, but Amazon doesn't have them in stock and they run from $210 to $383 + shipping, depending on who you buy from. But I have the correct FDM coming in soon for ~$80 and can get the correct F6C Spectra tank delivered for $97. This seems like the best way to go, and gives me a complete 1995 F350 fuel system. Does this make sense?