Gary Lewis

Now THAT'S loaded! Did you have any "feel" in the steering?

Yep, I ordered this set as someone on here said it worked well for them:

Do you mean the sound deadening mat? That's the stuff that they say 25% coverage will suffice, although more is better. But shouldn't the insulation have complete coverage? Having said that, I ordered two 36 sq ft packages of each, so I should have plenty of even the sound deadening mat to cover most of it. But I want to do inside of the doors, so that will both take more as well as take plenty of time.

I think I will, but I need to test that. I've stood on the brakes and they are FIRM. I've rolled it a bit and it stopped. But that was really minimal. So I need to make 100% sure it'll stop easily 'cause the trailer is in the driveway behind the truck. So as it rolls out of the shop I need to be able to stop it. But, as Bill said, I have the e-brake, and it has always worked well. And, I can drop it in gear if I need to. I now have the Royal Purple on order, but it won't be in until a week from now. So I ordered the sound deadening material to have plenty to do in the interim. Here's what I ordered: Noico 80 mil 72 sqft car sound deadening mat. This will be in on Friday. Noico RED 150 mil 72 sqft Сar Sound Insulation. This will be in tomorrow. So I'll start on the floor of the cab, probably tomorrow. If I can get the floor wire-brushed and POR-15 down I can then put the sound deadening mat and the insulation on. Perhaps I can have the carpet in and then the seat in by the time the lube gets in, which will save time as I won't have to put the seat in and then take it back out just to start the engine and move the truck around.

George - I hope your TV antenna survives Lara! Good luck.

Christian - Yes, that's good. And you've figured out which relay is which correctly. Given that, it should be fairly easy to remove that extra relay and go back to stock - if that is what you want to do.

Thanks, Bill. I'll do that on the cooling system. Good idea. But I might do it slightly differently. I put a shutoff valve in one of the hoses, so I could break the line there and have the two ends above the level of the heater core. Fill things up and put them together. And thanks for the confirmation on removing the belt on the power steering system. It just seems like the prudent thing to do. Obviously I won't be going anywhere until I get it back on and the air out of the system, but I can move the truck in and out of the shop w/o the boost.

Josh - You might want to play with the calculator here: Documentation/Driveline/Speedometers, Gears, Cables, & Sensors. You can easily figure out what gear you need. But if your speedo is reading 72 at a true 60 then the 20-toothed gear is what you want. Jim - You are making good progress! So it was rusted-through brake line?

Got a bit more done. Added a vent to the D60 and filled it with Mobil 1 75w90LS. It seems to have taken almost 4 quarts. Then I added three gallons of ShellZone Extended Life Coolant. But, I hadn't looked at the manual and it says this beast takes 18 quarts/4.5 gallons. Guess I need another trip to see DeWayne. And, as explained on the Fluid Capacities thread, I talked with Cody at Royal Purple. The bottom line is that Synchromax is the right stuff for the ZF, but it'll also work fine in the Sag/hydroboost system. However, their Max EZ is "slightly" better for the power steering system. Amazon wants to sell at least 6 bottles of Max EZ, but Cody thinks I might need 3 to 4 - at Max. Instead, I'm thinking I'll go with 4 bottles of Synchromax which, coupled with the 3/4 of a bottle I have left, should be plenty as the ZF takes 3.4 quarts and that would leave me with 1.3 quarts for the steering.

Just talked to Cody at Royal Purple. They still recommend Synchromax MTF for the ZF5. For the Sag/hydroboost unit he said "Max EZ is slightly better than Synchromax." And there was emphasis on the "slightly". Later in the conversation he said "If you want to keep it simple and use Synchromax in both I have no problem with that. It meets the same ATF specs that Type F did and it'll work fine." I asked how much fluid for the Sag/hydroboost and he didn't know. He suggested that maybe having three 12-oz bottles of EZ would be enough, or four to be safe. But if I go with Synchromax he doubts it'll take more than one qt/36 oz bottle.

Yes, this is a cool project! I'm along for the ride, and for encouragement awa helping if I can.

Got the PCV valve in today so finished the plumbing on that side of the PCV system. And now I've turned to getting the appropriate fluids. The first was to take inventory of what I have, which includes Amsoil Multi-Vehicle Synthetic ATF. As explained in the Fluid Capacities thread, Amsoil's tech said not to use that in a t-case nor a power steering system. Instead to use their ATLQT Signature Series Fuel-Efficient Synthetic Automatic Transmission Fluid. You can order from their site, which actually takes you to Alcantar Drivetrain Performance LLC, and they want $15.50/qt for the stuff with free shipping. Amazon wants $27.33 for it, so I thought about it for a ms and ordered it from Alcantar. Next up was the power steering/hydroboost system. Amsoil said not to use the stuff I have in the factory system for BB but the line dropped before I got an answer on what to use in a '95 E350 w/hydroboost. So I turned to our documentation on hydroboost conversions from Hydratech. They say to use Royal Purple Max EZ synthetic PS fluid. Well, since I want to talk to Royal Purple to ensure they still recommend that I use Synchromax Manual Transmission Fluid in the ZF5 I called them. Tech support isn't available, so I left a message. We shall see what they say. But does anyone have an idea how much fluid the power steering/hydroboost system takes? Also, I'm thinking I should pull the belt that spins the power steering pump when I start up the engine for cam break-in. I just don't want to chance that there's a leak in the power steering system. Thoughts?

I'm sure glad y'ouse guys have had this conversation. I'm in the process of gathering the lubes to bring Big Blue back to life and need fluids for both the BW1345 t-case and the power steering system. And I have several quarts of Amsoil Signature Series Multi-Vehicle ATF. Looking at the back it is recommended for everything that uses Mercon, Mercon V, ESP-M2C166-H, Dexron III, and so many other things it makes me laugh. So my first thought was I'd use it in the t-case. Then I remembered this thread and called Amsoil where I was told not to use it in this t-case. Instead to use their ATLQT Signature Series Fuel-Efficient Synthetic Automatic Transmission Fluid. Ok, so it isn't good for the t-case. Maybe the power steering? Nope, use their Type F Super Shift for my '85. Oops, I have a 1995 E-350 Saginaw pump and Hydroboost system. At that the line dropped. And, while I was typing this I recognized the ESP-M2C166-H and took a pic of the ZF5's label. Yep, it calls for the same stuff. Man, this is CONFUSING!

Where were you a year ago! I'd have jumped at that D60 with 3.54's. But I bought a '95 D60 instead. Oh well.

Thanks, David!

Thanks, David!

You are now on the list, Cinamon. (Glad you were able to get in.)

It sorta makes sense - they added a relay to run the added on fuel pump. But we need to decide what it is you want to do - continue with the added-on fuel pump or go back stock. We need to determine what shape the original wiring is in to help you make the decision. You should have two relays from the factory: The fuel pump cutoff relay and the tank selector relay. My fuel pump cutoff relay is the green one attached to the fender, shown below, and the tank selector relay is the gray one just to its left. We need to see if you have both of those and if they are wired correctly. The wiring is shown in the post above. If their wiring has been hacked then you will need to decide what you want to do - put the wiring back or stay with the added-on pump.

Those are expensive, but so rare. Good find!

It won't work. There's a different tailshaft section for the 4wd transmissions than the 2wd's. And from what I remember you disassemble the whole transmission to swap the tailshaft section.

The rear may help. Haven't tried just one end. Do some searching on the forum using the search bar at the top right. David/1986F150Six has found sway bars for sale and has posted them. Should be in Marketplace/eBay, Craigslist, Facebook, & Kijiji Finds.

Sway bars were an option. They are shown on the page at Documentation/Suspension & Steering/Sway Bar.

You have several things that aren't right and each them require testing. So lets start at the beginning. First, you have an add-on fuel pump. Why? Is it because the rear tank's pump doesn't work? Or the front tank's pump doesn't work? Or both? But the rear tank's pump can't work if the tank selector valve isn't working. And you said there's not power on the connector to the tank selector valve in Rear. I assume that's with the connector on the valve, right? If there is no power to the valve then you need to test the switch in the cab. Make sure it is working properly. Then, if it is working properly, test the signals to the tank selector relay. But, you said " the one that is spliced into is the grey one sitting besides the green relay". Spliced in isn't right. There should be nothing "spliced in". So, can you show us a picture of the "splicing"?

Yep, sure have.

From the wire colors you mentioned I think yours is wired the way the 1985 EVTM shows, and the schematics are below. I assume that the information you gave with power on some wires in "run" was with the switch in the front position. Correct? But was the engine running? 1. wire is Yellow/blue band-no light: This should be the wire to the rear sending unit and shouldn't have any power in Front 2.wire is white -blinking light: This is surely the yellow/white wire from the gauge, and the blinking is due to the instrument cluster voltage regulator. This is correct. 3. wire is blue/green-no light: Could this be the dark blue/yellow wire? If so it should have blinking power on it. 4.wire is bli/white-continious light: If this is brown/white it should have continuous power in Front 5.wire is red-no light: This is probably orange, and it should be grounded in Front So, with no power on any of the wires in Rear, either your tank switching valve is bad or the fuel tank selector switch in the cab is bad. Test the switch in the cab to see.