Gary Lewis

Yippee! Perseverance, combined with education, pays off. My guess is that the people in the mom & pop joint have been in the business for a long time, including back in the pre-serpentine day when it wasn't unusual to have dual belts. But the kids running the computers in the corporate parts stores have never seen that need. I walked into O'Reilly's the other day needing speedometer cable lube. The guy behind the counter asked "Year and model?"

Low price and free shipping? Maybe. What was the price?

kühl ? Jein. As you wrote it, kühl, does mean "cool". But Kühl is an outdoor clothing company. (I had to have two things in order to use the German slang of "jein", from ja for yes and nein for no, into the conversation.)

Good find. GR818, so the F786 is the equivalent. And $19.93 with free shipping is better than $29.95 + shipping. And I agree with your assessments of the differences. But I'm not sure I understand why saturation voltage is important. If the set point is 14.6 then.....

That's the plan. And add the aux battery voltmeter relay to the move into the PDB. But I want to see that said plan is going to work. Also, there's a worry that there's not quite enough of the yellow wire coming from the other side to get to the EFI PDB. If that's the case I'm wondering if there might be enough room to squeeze the battery isolator between the aux battery and the PDB, and then terminate the yellow wire on the isolator. So before I start making expensive cables I want to know how it will all fit.

If you mean the alternative to the wire coming across the radiator support, I'm planning on not changing that. What I'm debating is where the battery isolator, aux relay, coolant recovery, and windshield washer reservoirs will go. Note that I listed the coolant recovery and windshield washer reservoirs separately. That's because I may split them and put them in two different places due to lack of space.

Interesting. I'd missed that one. Here's what they say about the F795: And here's what they say about the F786: So, what's the saturation voltage? I understand what saturation voltage for a transistor is, but how does it apply here?

Nor can I. But you'd hope that a regulator that costs half as much as a complete alternator would be American made.

Looking good. I especially like that shiny blue engine peeking out in there!

Yes, it really is amazing what seems to get through filters. I've had the accelerator discharge nozzles clog on a 2150, and I was using a good, new paper filter. How can stuff get through paper? Anyway, take your time and enjoy doing it. It'll be even more special when you get it going.

DB told me they aren't selling the LRC regulators bare, so it looks like National Quick Start then. I remember researching this back when I was doing the alternator for Dad's truck and NQS was one of the few places that had them. Or, maybe I should say "will sell them". DB must have them.

Shaun - That's really good to know. UBoltsDirect says that their 3/8-9/16" bolts are G5 equiv, and 5/8" and above are G8 equiv. I'll have to measure and see what size these are, but I'm going to guess that they are 9/16". So Ruff-Stuff sounds better, especially with rolled threads. Bruce - Thanks, but we are doing our best to stay out of stores, shops, etc. So I think I'd prefer to order the u-bolts. But I do thank you, and if this were another time I'd probably head down that way as soon as I'm sure that I want to go with the softer suspension. As previously said, tomorrow I'm going to lay out where the air box and PDB will go. The reason for that at this time is with the bits and pieces now in hand to do the inverter wiring I need to know where the big accessory relay is going to go. And the battery isolator. Etc. Then I need to revise the cabling for those things and the aux battery. In fact, I need to put the EFI PDB in place as it will have the termination for the wire coming across the radiator support from the other PDB, alternator, etc. Plus, the relays for the fog lights and extra backup lights will be in there, along with a few other relays. Here's what I'm thinking. Thoughts?

Note the broken tab laying below it? The C-II bracket on Huck was that way. Bill/85lebaront2 said "Pull the water pump - I'll bet the backing plate was left off." I did and sure enough, he was right. W/o the backing plate the bracket will lack ~1/8" of hitting the water pump when the other bolts are tightened down. And the bracket is very stiff, so when you put the bolt in that little tab and torque it down, it breaks off.

Dan - My go-to place for alternator parts has been National Quick Start and they show a # F795 - Voltage Regulator, 12 Volt, A-Circuit, I-S-A Terminals, 14.6 Vset, 2.5 second LRC, For Ford 3G Series Alternators, and for $33.95 I'd hope it isn't Chinese.

Yup, a Windsor. Thanks for creating the sig.

It would help us a lot if we knew the engine you have. So I recommend you create a signature, as explained in the Bullnose Forum/Forum FAQ's. That way our answers can be more accurate. However, I'm going to guess that you have a Windsor. And I think that line goes across the back of the engine and bolts onto the back of the heads. If I'm right you can unbolt it and then insert short 5/8-11 bolts with a copper washer under the head to seal it. And by "short" I'm talking about about 1/2" long as the threads in the head aren't very deep. Plus, you can't get a very long bolt between the head and the firewall.

IIRC, POR sells something like Marine Clean to degrease with. You spray it on and then blast it off with water.

First, $849?????? And that was a BID? Second, they are NOT part number E2TA-1130-AB as that's an ID #. But in spite of there being a cross reference between part #'s and ID #'s for the wheel covers/rings, that # is not shown. However, I have found that the little Rangers used 14" rings. Might they be for them?

Hmmm, eBay now says "This listing was ended by the seller because there was an error in the listing."

Wow! $50 for just the arm & bracket? I didn't realize those are that expensive.

Some of those are EXPENSIVE! But the last one, at $19.90, is much more reasonably priced. Thanks for posting these.

True. But let's see what he says.

Dave - What oil are you using? I don't know if there are "good" oils that don't foam and "bad" oils that do foam, but maybe? And have you put a thermometer on the thermostat housing to know that it really is getting up to temp? Otherwise, I'm out of ideas.

Shaun - They have the rectangular pads with two studs like the '85 TTB springs do, not the round ones with one stud. As for Roughstuff, are you saying their u-bolts are bigger? Stronger? Thanks, Jim. If I like the suspension, and I'm sure I will, I'll measure what I have and order replacements from either Ubolts Direct or Roughstuff. After what I've been through pulling leaves out of the springs that will be easy. And, speaking of liking the suspension, I was hoping to find out tomorrow afternoon. The t-case seal was to be here tomorrow in the morning mail and I thought I'd get to drive the truck in the afternoon. But now the tracking says Saturday. So, what I'm now planning to do tomorrow is to figure out where the EFI air box and power distribution box will go. I brought Huck's left front fender in today and will bolt those items to it and transfer measurements to Big Blue's fender. I know the coolant/windshield washer reservoir is going to have to be moved, and I'm not at all sure where to.

Chad, I don't have anything to trade but I am very interested in what you have as I wish to convert my 351W C2 pump t a saginaw pump. Please email me with price? Chad - You might want to clarify which bracket you are looking for on the 460 - vee belt or polygroove, aka serpentine. I think they are different brackets. (I don't have either of them, by the way.)