Gary Lewis

The codes should be adjacent to the valve stem on the back side. And they are shown on the Identification Codes tab on the page at Documentation/Driveline/Wheels. But I agree, if they are 5-lug 16" wheels I don't think they were of the Bullnose era.

Great! And yes, Crutchfield is good. Got their catalog yesterday and read it. They really do have good stuff and are helpful.

Thanks for your service. And, I certainly hope we get to meet.

A common misconception because the things happen pretty close to the same time. But there's no way for the locker to engage while the inside tire is going slower than the outside tire. So it can't engage "as soon as you gave it any power." It won't engage until the result of adding the power breaks the inside tire loose and the inside tire catches up to the outside tire. It might take less than a second, but the sequence is add power, break the inside tire loose, inside tire catches up to outside tire, then locker reengages. Another common misconception (which is often held by writers in 4WD magazines). Automatic lockers know nothing about whether you are putting power to it or not. All they know is relative motion of the two sides and the carrier. They will always allow one tire to go faster than the carrier and they will never allow either tire to go slower than the carrier. Yes but no. The locker will drive the one tire that's planted, giving it 100% of the power, because it will never allow either tire to turn slower than the carrier. But if someone were to grab the tire that's in the air and turn it faster they'd find that it would turn easily. Because the locker will easily disengage any time a tire tries to turn faster than the carrier. Power has nothing to do with it Possible, but only if both tires are turning exactly the same speed. If you are turning at all, or if one tire is a little different diameter than the other then one tire will be trying to turn a little faster than the other and the locker will disengage. That's why you usually get at least a little torque steer any time you get on or off the throttle. So usually an automatic locker is sending all of the power to one tire (unless that tire is slipping). A lot of people agree with you on that. I'm just not one of them. And that's fine. That's just opinions and preferences. I don't expect everyone to be the same there. Bob - Thanks for your detailed explanations on this. I really appreciate the time you've taken and the in-depth knowledge you have. I'm learning a lot from this.

Ok, I found them at Grainger: Rubber Grommet, 1/2 in I.D., 1 1/4 in O.D., 1/16 in Panel Thickness. And they'll be here Tuesday. That's not too bad since tomorrow I'll work on the website and watch the game, and Monday I'll work on the relay/charger box wiring. I'd forgotten that I hadn't finished the wiring in that box, so I should be able to do that Monday and install it. Then I can start on the Mission Control wiring. Maybe this thing will come together!

I've liked the idea of a clutch switch ever since someone got in Dad's truck and started it in 1st a couple of feet from the garage door. He got it shut down before hitting the door, but it scared me. (It wasn't me.) So now anything with a manual tranny will have a clutch switch. As for the differences, I don't have a clue. Just that the part numbers changed, so something is different.

You are on the map. Hope you like Italian food. So, are you originally from Owasso? We've been here in 'took for about 12 years, but get over your way frequently for shopping, doctor's visits, etc.

Ok, I know that I threw the switch that took us off on this siding with the picture of the she's real fine my 409. Or, maybe we are parked, maaaan? But I'm going to attempt get some help from y'all. Got started on wiring the inverter. In fact I got the power and ground cables to it, as you'll see below, but I'm now stuck on finding either grommets or cable glands to fit. Or, maybe I should say find them that can get here tomorrow or Monday so I can keep working. The opening in the cab corner that I'm running the wires through (one in each corner) is 1", and the #2 wires measure .45", but that can easily be increased to 1/2" with a piece of shrink tubing. But everything I'm finding from any vendor has a delivery date from 10 days to two weeks. Any suggestions? As for what I got done, I did get the power and ground wires run under the "step" that the carpeted trucks get, the storage unit reinstalled, and the wires connected to the inverter with the inverter back in the storage unit. Then I coated the positive connection with two coats of liquid electrical tape, so I think it is pretty safe. And, here's what it looks like:

Note that those #'s pertain to the same part. Any # ON a Ford part is not a part number. It is an ID #, regardless of what everybody thinks. So people look at a part and advertise that they have that part #. But in reality they have that ID #. And that makes it hard to find find parts since what we have in the Master Parts Catalog is usually only the part #'s. That's why Jim has been asking you for the number on the part. Also, do you have this box ticked? If you would reply but tick that box before you hit POST you'll get notified when we answer your posts..

Ok, see if this helps. Id # E3TA 7505 FA is part # E3TZ 7505-D, and as we knew, that's an '83-only bell housing for the Windsor engines. (And, I have updated the page at Doc/Driveline/Bell Housings, as shown below.) Which leads us right back to the same part number for the release lever: E3TZ 7515-D, which will be marked E3TA 7515-EB or E3TA-EB as sometimes they leave out the basic #. (And the page at Doc/Driveline/Clutches & Linkage has been updated.)

Jim - Let me see what I can do...

That's interesting! I've never seen anything like that. Could be really useful.

Would you believe that the first one was used 3 years, the second one only 1 year, and then the third one used for many years? That's in the pickups and Broncos. Apparently the engineers on the vans were smarter? I've added that to the page at Documentation/Electrical/Switches.

Its just me where I can just un-bolt and bolt back up with out changing other parts like the brake line because of the fitting size. I know some said you can get the fitting off a JY truck but I cant get to JY's. Yes he did say "rust" and the newer master would not rust LOL. Yes my master has rusted a little but so far no leaking lid. It's just me (OCD) I don't like the look of the newer master in the older engine bay. Dave ---- If you buy the right master it comes with the residual pressure valve, and save for swapping front/rear it bolts in. No junk yard needed. As for the look, maybe you could put a bag over it?

By the way, I forgot to mention that if you have the quad shock option up front you don't want to put 4 of the same shock on there. When I got Dad's truck there were 4 of the same shocks on and the ride wasn't very good. I just assumed that was because it is a truck. But when I was replacing the shocks I talked to a tech at Monroe and he told me that they are supposed to be different. So I went to the Master Parts Catalog and, sure enough, they are. I bought their Sensatracs and it really made a nice improvement in the ride.

By the way, you aren't on our map: Bullnose Forum/Member's Map in the menu. Happy to add you if you'd like.

Drumright! Was there on Wednesday. Took Big Blue out to stretch his legs, and to get us out of the house. How do you say Owasso? My friends from Haskell, that live just west of Collinsville, say Owasso, with the emphasis on the O.

Our page on Documentation/Year-To-Year Differences says this on the Electrical tab. I included the NSS as it seems relevant. Kind of scary, huh? Neutral Start Switch: The automatic transmission neutral safety switch, which prevents the engine from cranking in all but Park and Neutral, first debuted in 1983. (Source: 1983 EVTM) Clutch lockout switch, (E4TZ 11A152-B) which prevents the engine from cranking with the clutch engaged, first appeared in 1984. (Source: 1984 EVTM & MPC )

Yes, Cory, that is a PROJECT! It makes me tired just looking at it. (Or, maybe it is the 2nd Moderna shot that's making me tired?) I'm curious, what part of central OK?

Yes, the truck IS looking good! Let's get it on here. But how 'bout some pics of the Broncos?

I particularly like the "(un)locker" description. Makes sense to me. And after you explained your experiences with one in the front I'll stay with my e-locker, thank you very much!

I'm sure you know, but everything with an alternator dies if you pull the cable off the battery. Back when we had generators that wasn't the case, but 'tis now. As for dealing with RA, good luck! Let us know how it goes, please.

Check the circuit board. If I remember correctly some have found "yuk" on their boards and gotten the tach to work again by cleaning the board with isopropyl alcohol and a cotton bud. We do have a schematic on the tachs on the page at Documentation/Electrical/Tachometers.

You are now on the map.

That's where I am. But others value the better lighting of the projector versions. To each his own. But, the main point in all of this is that there is junk and there are good options. Out of 16 candidates only 5 made the cut, and they are all expensive.