Gary Lewis

What, an emoticon quoting Bill? Or the arm rest? Gary, just say, "if that is meant as a compliment, then I thank you"! Good one, David! Dane - While I'd like to do that, I'd have to figure out how to code in HTML to do it, and also get Bill's approval. But it would be cool!

What, an emoticon quoting Bill? Or the arm rest?

Ships/night. I think that feature is turned off in my instance of EEC-V. At least that's my memory. And perhaps it wasn't syphoning, but being the low point was just draining. However, when I took the spongy hose and wye off I got a steady stream out of the vent tube, which is why I sealed it for now. Which then shifted the leak to the hose coming off the tank. As for the canister, it sits just above the frame and wouldn't be much higher than the tube I was playing with today. Obviously I overfilled the tank, but I don't want it going into the canister either.

Yeah, I think I'll just use individual 1/4" connectors. Didn't get very far on that today as I was fighting the gas leak problem. Finally put a vacuum cap over the end of the line that was dripping, and then for fear that the gas would kill the cap over night I put a hose over that, using the cap as an adapter to get from the 3/16" of the line to the 3/8" of the fuel hose I have. And I ran the line up to the passenger's door handle and secured it so it won't leak. But then I kept smelling gas and discovered that the vapor hose-to-metal line connection at the tank was leaking. Put a hose clamp on that, and decided that the fumes in the shop were too much, so after wiping everything down and taking the wet paper towels outside I came into the house. And now, knowing that the metal line is 3/16", I've ordered 10' of fuel hose that size. I think I'm going to run it from the wye up inside the bed's fender, and put a small fuel filter on the end. That way it'll be much higher than the tank and protected from things trying to get in. And later, if I want to put canisters on I won't have made it so I can't.

Exactly! We almost need an emoticon for that. Maybe his avatar from FB that, when clicked, would generate "Another clueless eBay seller".

What would Number Dummy say?

While I think that pad is tan or nutmeg, the part number of E4TZ 1024100-A3D" is for a red one:

Now you find them! After I painted my brown ones. Seriously though, that's a good price, and I highly recommend this style of visor as a fix to the saggy Bullnose visors.

Scott - Thanks. John - Scott is right, there really should be tracers on all but the big wire. But they are sometimes really hard to see. I know this is your picture, but maybe you can look really closely and find the traces? And, I could add what the wire does to the pic. Is that what you mean?

Well guys, I need some help. I don't have the charcoal canisters on the truck, nor any way to recover the vapors they'd gather. But today I discovered that I have a fuel leak that is coming from the vapor line and I need ideas on how to best deal with it. The leak is at the wye where the two vapor lines merge, and at that point the lines are 2" below the bottom of the rear tank. It appears that I got the rear tank full enough that when the gas expanded in the warm shop it went down the vapor line and started a siphon. I really don't want to run the charcoal canisters and don't want the switching valves that would let either the carb or the EFI vent them. So for now I've capped the line where it was to go into the wye. But, what's the best way to handle that? Should I run a line up high under the bed and put a fuel filter on it so varmints can't get it? Thoughts? And, for your humor, today it got cold enough for me to finally wear the coat I got last year, shown below. But when I started out to the shop I decided I didn't want to bring it out here 'cause I don't want it to absorb the smells. And then I opened the door and was struck with a strong gas smell from that leak.

What are those? California trucks? Yes, California. This site says "OBD II—This more rigorous OBD regulation started to be phased-in in 1994. Since 1996, its implementation has been required on all new gasoline and alternate fuel passenger cars and trucks sold in California. All 1997 and newer diesel fueled passenger cars and trucks are also required to meet OBD II requirements." So the '96 460's sold in CA had to have it, and the way to do that was EEC-V, which used MAF and SEFI. Most people don't know that any 460's came with it, and Bill has had people tell him he was wrong when he said he has an ECU from one. But they existed. Just like unicorns did.

Sorry, the "sense" wire is the Y/W wire. It is how the regulator senses what the battery voltage is. It is the feedback link to the regulator so it can control the alternator's output voltage. As shown below, which is from the '96 EVTM, Ford attached it to what I've called the megafuse, but in the '96 EVTM it is Fuse Link J. Jim has recommended that we wrap it back and connect to the output stud.

The connectors will fit, but they are almost an inch deep and will force my turns back more than just using the female 1/4" connectors. And I don't have much room behind the switches. My plan is to make a very tight harness of always hot, switched power, marker lights, and ground that ends in the clock connector. Then put female connectors on each of the 12 "other" wires and hook them up. If I used the connectors I'd have to incorporate those wires into the connectors, along with the other 12 wires. That would mean all of the wiring has to be done on the truck, where I can make the harness on the bench. Does that make sense? Am I missing something?

You are now on the map: Bullnose Forum/Member's Map. You'll see that Andre is in Amsterdam. Or, maybe I should say his Bronco is because at present he's in Spain, but will be back this Spring. You can see some of his Bronco here and here. It would be good to meet people, and once this virus has run its course I'll be having the show here in Skiatook, OK. Perhaps this year? If so it will be on the Saturday of the Labor Day holiday, which will be Sept 4th. But that's not a given depending an what happens with the virus.

The circuits to the OX locker, fog & backup light relays, etc. Here's what I've drawn up to this point:

Welcome! Sure glad you joined. So, where in The Netherlands are you? I ask for several reasons. First, we have a map (Bullnose Forum/Member's Map in the menu) and we can add you if we had a town. And you'll see that we have other members there as well. And, I've spent time there, both on holiday as well as on business. Love the country and the people. Nice truck! Hope you'll start a thread in the main section and tell us all about it.

I hope it'll be in the garage! 'Tis 17F here now, so maybe 19 at your place? Did you get the ice?

Gary, does this mean you will be making some changes to your current wiring schematics? Yes, sorta. What I was talking about with the sense wire is very minor. The diagram shows it connecting with the output at the megafuse. Instead I'd shorten the sense wire and put it directly on the output stud. Electrically there's no difference, but if the connection between the sense wire and the output wire is done at the megafuse and then the output wire comes loose at the output stud the sense wire won't see what is happening. But if you put the two together at the output stud there's a chance the sense wire will still be connected to the output. And I'm making changes in the background on the Voltmeter tab. I'm not done there, but I would appreciate all input, especially yours, on the 2G stuff. After all, you are the test case. So, does this make sense to you?

Thanks, Scott. That's what I was thinking - go with the marker lights circuit as it is there and I'm already going to be using it for the fog light relay. And if later I want the LEDs to be dimmer then I can add a resistor. By count it looks like I have 12 non-clock circuits, so I'm wondering about a small connector to use for them. Any suggestions? Or, I could do as I'd planned and put female 1/4" connectors on everything and go right to the switch instead of having another connector. Thoughts?

I'm planning to use the clock connector that Scott sent me to provide power (switched, always hot, and marker lights) as well as ground to the switches in Mission control. And then I'll use separate 1/4" connectors for the other circuits. But the clock connector doesn't have the LB/R wire that is for instrument lighting. And while that is available right below there on the radio, I wonder if just using the marker lamps power to illuminate the switch "marker" LEDs would be adequate? I could put a resistor in the feed if they are too bright, but I run the instrument potentiometer at full brightness all the time, so don't see why this wouldn't work. And it would make the connections that much easier. Thoughts?

Yes, many say "C6". But some say "AOD". Neither are right. It is an E4OD in this case, far better than the C6 for use. I wish more of the '96 CA 460 trucks had been made. That would make me think.

Yes, that looks like the one from the 80's trucks. I took one of those apart and powder coated it.

You might put them on ebay with a price and see if they sell.

Thanks

Yes, I've seen them advertised before. I think they fall into the "junk" category, without a doubt. The problem is that they are placing an LED into a housing meant for a halogen bulb. The two light sources have a completely different geometry and it just will not work properly.