Gary Lewis

That's a bummer! At least you haven't damaged anything on the Bullnose. Hope AAA gets it out gently. And I agree with Jim, lay off the chemicals and clean it with high detergent oil. Slowly, slowly!

255 liters is 67 gallons, so that's not much over the original fuel pump specs. Can you really use more than 60 gallons/hour?

E2TB-15550-AA is an ID # not a part number. (Any number on a Ford part is not a part number.) I'll check in the morning to see what part number it cross references to. However, I'm very confused as our listing (Documentation/Underhood/Engine Compartment Lamp) shows an E0TZ 15702-A, not E0 or E2TZ 15550-A. But the MPC does show both: 15550 LAMP ASSY. (UTILITY) 15702 LAMP ASSY. (ENGINE COMPARTMENT) But that one sure looks like mine, so I'll see what ID # is on it and let you know what I find.

That is certainly a good price if it checks out.

OUCH! That's awful!

Apparently Huck didn't have that still on him as I sure don't remember it. Sounds like a nice solution. Did you see the statement in the owner's manual for our radio? But then they show this graphic that tells how to mount the radio in two of the brands. Are they screwing into the radio? Surely they are instead of into the sleeve as the screws would protrude into the cavity. Anyway, they do show using the screw holes to mount the radio, much as you apparently did?

Sorry. Right. They don't support anything else. Just themselves.

Hard to say what voltage the ICVR sees because the current varies so much. It takes ~.2a to take a gauge to full scale, so if all three are at full scale then there will be .6a and if the battery voltage is 14v then the drop will be about 5v, meaning the ICVR will see ~9v. And if the gauges aren't at full scale the voltage will be closer to battery voltage.

I don't remember what came in Huck. Probably wasn't original as most things had been .... shadetree'd. And I didn't keep any of that. Sorry. I think it would be fairly easy to use the side mounts, but I think my plan is going to work nicely. We shall see.

Pretty, but I wouldn't want a high rise intake on the street. And there's just something not quite right in my mind with the wheel & tire package. They seem to be too big, both the tires and the wheels.

They are essentially the same as the round wall thermostats that had an "anticipator" circuit in them to heat them up just a bit to cut the response time. But in our case the anticipator is much bigger. As for the tiny springs, just think about the shock those things endure when we bounce down the road. How can they last? But they seem to do so.

LOL! Tangent? I think the whole thing is a tangent. I, too, played with polarizing filters. Dad always wore polarized sun glasses, frequently Ray Bans, and I used to as well. But you are right, they don't work well with LCDs. On the scarring, I've had cataract replacement and that made a huge difference. So the points from the lenses don't bother me as much as they would have previously. But I can see how that would bother you - seriously. On the side mounts, these are the things I'm talking about:

By the way, I need to point out that the gauges are actually thermometers and the power we feed them heats them up. So that takes time to kick in. In other words, if you turn the voltage up give it at least a minute, and maybe two, before deciding that wasn't enough.

Gary, did you figure this with 235/75X15 tires? My RPMs were higher and the truck wore 215/75X15 tires. I used 235's.

You are right, that is rare!

Very close. I am thinking of making it like how Ford did it. The radio + sleeve + side brackets + rear mount would all be connected outside the dash. The only hitch is that the mic would need hooked up before the rear mount in your case but that would still be done outside the dash. With all of those pieces connected you'd put it up near the dash, make the wiring connections, slide it in so the rear mount clips on and then use the 4 factory side mount screws to secure the front. Then install the bezel and trim ring. There would need to be some adjustments done before the final install regarding depth. The depth of the sleeve isn't too critical but the aim would be to have it as far out as possible without touching the bezel. Once it's all adjusted odds are there will be a hole or slot in the sleeve that lines up with a threaded hole on the radio. So the radio would be clipped to the rear mount and machine screwed to the sleeve. The sleeve would be riveted (two to each side in a vertical line) to the side mounts and the side mount screwed to the dash. Then install the bezel and clip on the trim ring. Again, this is just another option of many Thanks, Scott. I think I now understand your plan. And you are right, there would need to be some adjustments to get the height and depth right. Plus shimming as the sleeve isn't as wide as the factory brackets. But it could all be done. So if my plan doesn't work I have another in waiting. As for what I did today, other than strategize about how to install the radio and dim the LEDs, I did some wiring for Mission Control. I found the W/P wire down by the fuse block where it splits and one leg goes up to the 4WD indicator and then on over to the clock and the other leg goes out to the aux power relay. I cut the latter off the former and ran a piece of W/P from it up to the switches. That is going to allow me to determine if I want the aux power to come on with the key, which is the normal way, or turn it on w/o the key so I can power things w/o the engine running. That would have been the case if we'd have needed it for the furnace. Then I fished two more wires through the grommet in the firewall and ran them up to Mission Control. One of those will be the wire from after the reverse switch in the transmission and the other is the wire from the switch in Mission Control out to the to-be backup lights relay. That way I can chose to have the aux backup lights on with the factory backup lights, off, or on all the time. Typing all that out makes it sound easy, although it was anything but that. The grommet I'm using for the wires is the one that the hood release cable goes through, and it is way up under the dash in a particularly difficult to get to spot. And I had to remove the dash pad/cover so I could run the wires along with the other wires and ducts. Here's a shot of the wires as I'm pushing a piece of convolute down them. Perhaps tomorrow I can connect them to the switches.

Welcome, Cory. It dawned on me later that I should have put the calipers in metric mode, but you can do the maths.

Thanks, David. I appreciate you taking a look at the plans. It helps to have other eyes and brains to think things through.

Jim - Ships/night. No, I didn't read that about not working well with some colors. Oh well, $6 isn't too bad to lose if the LightDims don't work. But it'll be an easy thing to try. And, if not I'll drop back to the resistor approach. Which brings me to a question: How do our eyes vary with respect to color? In theory they must accommodate that in a camera in order to get a good picture. If so, then plan is to light each individual switch such that the camera wants to shoot at the same f-stop, aperture, and shutter speed. That way they should all have have essentially the same brilliance. But will that look even to my eyes? On the mount, I agree that using the rear mount attached to the radio looks difficult. But I'm liking the latest plan. The sleeve/cage attaches very securely to the bezel, and if perchance this sleeve fits the new radio I won't even have to swap. But either way, with it and a rear support I think it'll be solid. Your thoughts?

Ok, I think I figured out how to mount the radio. This may be Plan D or E. But I looked at how to secure the sleeve to the original side mounts, and that doesn't look easy and wouldn't give much support since it would be just about 1/2" back of the bezel. But in the back of my mind I remembered a part for a rear mount that I got from some previous radio. I found it and it screws right into the back of the Sony that was in the truck, so presumably it will screw into the new radio. It is an M4 stud with a large rubber bushing pushed over it. So if I put the mount in place, pull the rubber bushing off the stud, put a drop of paint on the stud, and slide the radio in place it should put a dot where I need to drill a hole big enough for the bushing. Then I can put the bushing back on, lube it a bit, and slide the radio in place and it should have good rear support. And if the rear mount wants to move around on the brace I can put a couple of screws through it to keep it in place. Or, if it doesn't go high enough then I can fashion my own mount and attach it to the brace with screws. Thoughts? Problems? Improvements? http://www.garysgaragemahal.com/uploads/6/5/8/7/65879365/thinking-26_orig.jpg

Ahhh! That makes sense that even my 50-year old physics degree can get behind.

I can see that the pressures could vary between EFI systems, but the engine will use the same amount of fuel regardless of the type of EFI installed, assuming that the same AFR is maintained. So the GPH requirements will be the same.

Chris - The way Bill did it, and I'm going to do it, is a lot of work. Something like the Holley Sniper system would be easier for the EFI. But if you want a modern automatic tranny you'll need a computer to control that as well. All - Here's a closeup of the extra switch I have and the inside of the rocker. The LED protrudes a bit so it may not be easy to stick a LightDim on it, or maybe not easy to get it to adhere. But I think I can put it on the back side of the lens.

Let's see if this helps. Sorry for the fuzzy pics, but it was dark there in the attic and the flash took the reading away.

I don't know the spec's, but I think Bill does. However the FDM's should have the volume needed because they handle the EFI engines just fine.