Gary Lewis

Good to know I wasn't crazy, Jim. That was my remembrance, which came from when I ran the hot wire to the inverter recently. (But I guess being right once doesn't really mean I'm not crazy. And I am here, which may negate that.) Evaporust works pretty well if you can submerge the part in it. I have a gallon jug of it and have used it a few times. And that SEM Trim Black might be just the thing for the fender liners. I'll be anxious to see your results.

10 was my "I'll get at least that" number. Early on with the new engine I didn't get that. Now, with ~1000 miles on the clock it has moved up to 11, and is starting to crowd 12 under ideal circumstances.

It looks like your interior is pretty much what Big Blue's was originally. Same seat and door fabric, and same burled wood bezels.

WOW!

I'm thinking you are going to be happy!

That is really cool! I like that! Have you thought about selling them? I plan to use slide locks on Dad's truck.

Are you asking why Ford had Stylesides and Flareside? Because people would buy them.

Good luck!

That's a good idea. Thanks, Bruce!

Good answers! So, what all things do you have for our trucks?

There are usually several things attached to the fender liners, like the ignition module, battery tray, vacuum reservoir, etc. So those have to come out/off first. As for the little screws, Big Blue has hex headed screws on the driver's side and Phillips on the passenger's side. Go figure. And the hex head is small, and I'll confess I never really figured out what it is. But a 7mm socket worked. Haven't painted them, yet, so can't recommend anything. But I'd assume that version of SEM black would be good. And, things are looking GOOD! But while you are that far in I'd recommend that you pull the steering box loose and check behind it. In Dad's truck's case the frame was cracked and I didn't know it. So I'd check it out. And while you are there check the Huck bolt where the engine crossmember meets the frame right behind the steering box. But of my trucks had a loose Huck bolt that was probably the cause of the popping I was hearing on Big Blue.

Congrat's!!!!! That has to be very good feeling.

Bummer, Jim! But at least you know where to look. Good luck!

Oh yes, I forgot you have Bullnose senders and Bricknose gauges.

What are you talking about here Willis? Fill me in. Jim and I are both running TechnoVersions MeterMatch units. They are supposedly able to match about any fuel level sender to any gauge, but we are using the later sending units with Bullnose gauges. And that is quite a feat as the later senders not only have a different resistance range, but empty is full and vice versa.

Yes, it has worked out very nicely. I'm so glad that I put the Molex connector in because I know that I'm going to be taking the switches out several times, and that will make it far, far easier. And speaking of taking them out, I know that it'll have to come out to replace the Front Locker switch as it engages the locker in the "down" position, which I want to be the off position. So when it comes in I'll pull it out again. Also, I'll have to address the light level in the "indicators". But there are two different sets of indicators, the upper ones that come on with the marker lamps, and the lower ones that come on when the switches or the device is "on". I like the levels of the lower ones, the ones you see in the picture above. The locker indicator is bright, and I like that because I seriously doubt that I'll ever need to lock the axle at night, so I want it to be bright enough to be seen in the daytime. And the others seem about right, but I'll need to see them at night to know for sure. However I still need to dramatically tone down the upper indicators. And while the LightDims are supposed to come in today they haven't yet. But if they do I can stick one or more on the back of the lenses tomorrow and see what that does. That'll be easy as I have the tool to remove the rockers. Hopefully that will work and I won't have to play with resistors. But, if necessary I will.

So sorry to see that you are battling cancer. I sure hope that you beat it, quickly and soon.

Interesting. Doesn't show in the MPC, but I don't doubt it is correct. Cool!

I don't think you will derail this one. I think you will close it out.

I'm actually glad you found codes and that the ignition timing is locked. That's because I think the engine is going to act like it has been supercharged when you get things fixed and you won't need to re-gear. So I hope the temp sensor fixes things.

Blue has one of those, but I'm not sure I see the need for one on the other trucks. However, it is cool that they are available because if someone was restoring a truck to "showroom" they'd probably need one.

That's a lot of money, but I guess Broncos have gone up quite a bit recently. Also, apparently the same guy picked the accessory colors for that truck as did for Big Blue. The Bronco has green stuff and BB had red.

Got the switches wired up today, and they work! Here's a pic of the backside. By actual count there are 36 connections to the switches themselves, and 15 connections to the truck. But, of course, each of those 15 connections go through a connector with a male and female terminal, so in actuality there were 62 connections to make and solder, and of those 38 have shrink tubing on them. So, now you see why I'm happy that it actually worked? And, speaking of working, here's a pic of it in action. All of the indicators are on in this pic, but of course not all of the things the switches control are truly "on". But here's a run down: Front Locker: The electric actuator was plugged in and it spins when you flip the switch, and it then lights the indicator light to say "we are locked". But, without the cable connected to the differential, it obviously didn't lock. Fog Lights: Power is being fed to a non-existent relay under the hood, so the fog lights didn't truly come on. But I have the relay laid out, so that should happen soon. And, the indicator comes on in both the "always on" position as well as when I pull the marker lights on, so that bit works correctly. Aux Power: The key was in ACCY at this point, so the aux power relay normally wouldn't have been pulled in. However, with the switch I forced it to come in, and I know it did 'cause I heard it and the voltmeter swung up to over 12v. Then when I turned the key to On the relay came in and the indicator come on. Battery Parallel: When I first hooked the switches up the batteries weren't paralleled, but I pushed the momentary switch and heard the isolator come in and then the indicator lit. And the indicator stayed on for one minute, as the specs say it should, and then the isolator dropped out and the indicator went off. Air Compressor: With the Aux Power relay pulled in I turned the air compressor switch on and heard the relay in the box behind the seat come in. So if the compressor had been plugged in to the box it would have fired up. Backup Lights: This is another case of the relay not being there. But, I also haven't yet wired into the backup light circuit after the tranny's switch, so all I did here was to put the switch in the "always on" position where the light would be on regardless of the gear position. And, of course, I don't have the lights yet. Anyway, I'm a happy camper!

WOW! That is expensive!

Well, why don't we ask the guy that listed it? Following the link above takes me to the same place that link in this thread does: Reproduction Auto Transmission Indicator Cable. So, apparently our new member thisoldpart is not only the guy that listed it on ebay but the guy that makes them. So I'll tag him to come here.