Gary Lewis

Having driven pickups with a LockRight and with a TrueTrac as winter daily drivers, I don't think it's significantly harder to keep the back end behind the front with a locker than it is with a TrueTrac. You have to pay just a little more attention to the locker, so it's not great for someone who isn't used to it. And the locker is a lot more annoyingly noticeable, so the TrueTrac is probably a better choice for most people. But a little too much power in a corner and either one will come around on you pretty quick. And having driven a couple vehicles with a clutch-type limited slip, I'd say they are the worst choice if stability on ice and snow is the issue (my opinion, I know others feel otherwise). You can enter a curve at significantly higher speed with an open diff, TrueTrac or automatic locker than you can with a clutch-type limited slip without having the back end slide out. I'm not talking about being on the power here, just coasting around the curve. Ant if you are on the power too much I think a (working) clutch-type limited slip is somewhere in the narrow range between a TrueTrac and a locker, so I'd say they're all in the same ballpark there (the worn out ones are better, but still usually worse coasting around a corner) Might be the right call. There are relatively few situations where an open diff isn't almost as good for traction as a traction-aiding diff. And an open diff is always the smoothest and gives the best stability. So it comes down to how often do you encounter the "relatively few situations", and how much are you willing to compromise most of the time for better traction in those times? I have a TrueTrac in my current truck and I think it's probably the best choice for me in that truck. But if I had paid $2000 (parts and labor) to put it in in place of an open diff I don't think I'd think I got my money's worth. I actually paid ~$1000 (parts only, the labor was already needed to deal with a different problem) to replace a worn out clutch-type limited slip, so I think it was the right call. Bob - What are your thoughts on a remote-controlled locker in the rear? I'm thinking that's the best combo as it is open unless you tell it to lock.

You didn't say what speed you drove, but my 460 will return ~12 MPG at 65 MPH, so I believe something is wrong with your setup. And that's turning ~1800 RPM with no shifting, regardless of the size of the hill. I wouldn't have thought the ECU could make the carb rich enough to drop you from ~18 MPG, where I think you should be, to 12. That's burning 50% more fuel, and that is a lot to attribute to AFR. Assuming you've checked for codes, the only thing I can suggest is that the ECU isn't advancing the timing. That would cause it to be gutless and the MPG to go away.

I think you'll find the window felts make as much difference, and maybe more, than the door seals.

Ha! That’s a great idea! I use a trash bag twist tie to hold mine up! That would work. But the binder clip is pretty quick. While I'm in and out and in and out with the bezel it works well.

Those will be a huge help! Well done!

Good to know that it works well on calls, Jim. On the shocks, Summit says the Bilstein 33-185552's are for a 0 - 2" lifted application. Apparently I'd have been better off with a shock for no lift as these are just a bit too long. But at $94/ea they are what they are so I'll add spacers to ensure I don't bottom them out.

Yikes! Round 4! Hope it eases off soon. Black ice. Ok. Speaking of Texas and ice, I'll never forget a trip I had in Houston going to the airport. We had ice and I was driving a Chevy van. Got down to I-10 and encountered a bit of a delay - for over an hour. The brilliant gendarmes were stopping traffic at the base of an overpass and letting everyone try it by themselves. No chance to get a run at it, you started your run uphill. The guy ahead of me was then about as old as I am now. He was driving an 80's Olds 88, which for those that don't know had a big engine and rear wheel drive. I don't know that he really floored it, but it had to have been taching 4K and made every shift. How he kept the rear end behind him I don't know, but he went from Jersey barrier to Jersey barrier herding that thing. He finally made it over the overpass, but how I don't know. My van just putt putted up the hill as I feathered the throttle on the Q-Jet feeding the built 350 with headers.

Yep, you are a youngster. Ten years ago I was building the shop and working 8 - 10 hour days doing it. Now I don't make it nearly that long on easier tasks.

One of the many features of this radio is the ability to adjust the volume level of the different inputs. Here's one: As I read it, if I have two devices in the vehicle, like Janey's phone and mine, I can turn each one up or down by 6db in the presets. And, speaking of Bluetooth devices, there's a cool way to pair them: That sure beats many of the vehicles I've owned where you couldn't pair a phone if the vehicle was moving. I'm stoked! This thing has more features than I can get my head around.

Don't think I agree on the antilock brakes. Rolling friction is better than sliding friction, and w/o antilock most people just slam on the brakes and the tires slide. With antilock the tire keeps rolling and provides more friction. I grew up driving on snow and Dad taught me to pump the brakes to keep the tires rolling some. But I doubt many people know how to do that any more since most vehicles have antilock brakes. Anyway, sorry you are getting slammed with this storm. We had two rounds, but the last seems to have bypassed us. Glad your tires are working for you. I'm sure mine would be fine, but I'm not getting BB out in this.

With the dash pad/cover gone there's nothing for the two screws at the top of the bezel to screw into. So the binder clip holds the bezel to the dash. No comment on how thick of a spacer to use on the bump stops?

Got the new radio mounted. I used the sleeve that came with it as the one for the old radio didn't work, but the new sleeve fits the bezel nicely so this radio will be solid enough until I get the rear mount on it. However, I did play around a bit with the factory brackets, and while I could make them work it would be fiddly getting the height and depth exactly right. This way it works automatically. This radio is lighter as the old one includes a CD player, so there's less weight stuck out there. But it still needs the rear mount. Also, the connectors are different so I'll have to cut the old one out and solder in the new one, but that will wait until tomorrow. I did check on the microphone. There's ~12' of wire on it! So there will be plenty to put it anywhere I want. But I think what I'll do is to drive around talking to someone and clip the mic in various places and see how they sound to the "party to whom I am speaking". Anyway, hopefully tomorrow I'll have it working and can at least go through the setup on it. Here's a pic of it mounted. And you can also see what I'm talking about regarding pushing the connectors to the switches through the openings in the upper corners. In the left you can see the white of the Molex connector that I have one pin into, and on the right you can see the clock connector.

Mid-day report. The shocks are Bilstein 33-185552's, which have an extended length of 25.930" and a compressed length of 15.910". So I pulled a shock loose at the top and compressed it with a ratchet strap. As best I could measure it is 16" from C/L of the eyes, which matches the spec's closely. And it has 7 1/2" from the top eye to the shock tower holes when fully compressed. But there is 8 1/8" of space between the bump stop and the axle. So it looks like I need to put a 3/4" to a 1" spacer between the bump stop and the frame. A 3/4" one only allows for 1/8" of compression on the rubber bump stops, and I think I'd better plan on 3/8" of compression. Thoughts? Suggestions? And now I'm off to investigate the new radio as it just came in.

Nothing wrong with 73 3/4.

Sounds great! I'm so glad. But I think I agree with you on the fender. A replacement might be better in the long run.

Frank - Glad she is getting the care she needs. And glad the bed liner is that solid. Dane - Leaving it just screwed in makes for easier removal. And under the tool box, who cares? As for what I did with my truck today, I took it to town. But "it" was Blue, the 2015. And I got to play with the driveline a bit as I found some snow-packed spots on the street. Being a Lariat it has the top-end t-case with not only 2Hi, 4Hi, 4Lo, but also 4Auto. And in that mode the computer apportions the power to the front vs the rear as it sees fit. So I pulled up the Power Distribution display on the dash, found a patch of packed snow, and gave it some throttle. It initially had the majority of the power to the rear and the rear started to walk sideways. But through the magic of electronics it moved more power to the front and the truck straightened up quickly. So quickly that if you weren't watching for it you'd have never known what happened. But lest you think I'm saying that's the best thing since sliced bread, it is until it doesn't work. A few years ago we took my almost brand new truck to Colorado and found some snice - snow turned into ice. And the truck basically refused to go, even in 4A. Turned out that the Integrated Wheel Ends, the automagic equivalent of our lockouts on the axles, had failed. So yes, all the conveniences and electronics do wonders - when they work. And today they worked.

Unless your shocks are designed to be used as travel stops for the suspension, bottoming them internally will destroy them, maybe not immediately but will eventually. I know that every tubular shock I have dealt with is designed to be an extension stop, but not a compression stop. Even the FWD vehicles have a rubber cushion so the shock is not bottomed, and I have seen a few where some genius wanted to make a low rider and ends up taking it out so he isn't hitting the stop cushion, then wonders why his special shocks are no longer working after a few weeks. When I had my Shelby, it had Konis on it and the damping level adjustment was done by fully collapsing the shock and turning the rod and tube until the adjusting tab on the piston engaged the valve plate, then turning it in the desired direction until it "clicked" as many steps as you wanted, firmer or softer. The point on this, is the piston will smack into the control valves when the shock is fully collapsed. Either put spacers between the bump stops and frame or put blocks on the axle where it would hit the bump stops. The other alternative, if one end of the shocks is a plain stud, put some hard rubber between the shock body and the washer nearest the shock to serve as a bump stop (that's what is used on Macpherson Struts). Good point, Bill. I should pull a shock loose, collapse it, and measure the difference between its eye and that of the shock tower. Then see how that compares with the distance between the axle and the bump stops. I could easily put spacers above the bump stops.

Yippee! The new radio shows to be out for delivery. So after we run some errands, inc sending a shoulder harness bolt a few towns south, I think I'll see if I can remove the skid plate on the midship tank and lower it enough to replace the gasket on the fuel delivery module. Then tomorrow and Sunday I can install the radio and maybe even get to pair the phones to it and listen to it. But I won't be able to finish the installation, meaning installing the rear bracket until the bracket gets here, and last I knew it hadn't shipped yet as it is coming from a part of Texas that is still w/o power. But that can wait a bit as the old radio was pretty secure just using the sleeve. The LightDims and the new Molex connectors are to be here Monday, so I can install one of the connectors and test the patches to see how the LEDs look with them. And if that isn't acceptable I'll use resistors to set the level of each LED. And once the shift cable comes in for the OX locker I can install the actuator and cable, which should be a fairly easy job. Then I ought to install some relays for the fog and backup lights. I have plenty of relays, so may just hang those two off the bracket of the EFI air box where the trailer relay holder goes. This is just a "for now" solution until going EFI and the associated PDB, so doesn't need to be too fancy. Oh, and I should actually get some LED lights for aux backup lights and install them. Then the air compressor needs to be installed and the truck will be ready for adventure!

A forklift, and two presses! We have the little manual one I use most of the time (12 ton, I think) and a much larger one that is electric/hydraulic...probably 30 ton or more...not sure. That's why I say, one way or another that bushing IS going in there...lol. Decision on the bed? Do you mean what am I going to do for the bed floor? I'm going to start working on the bed soon... Yeah, that slit idea is sounding better and better. But I guess there's a chance the eye will open up and accommodate the larger diameter. Good luck!

Frank - Sorry to see that your wife has been in the hospital, but glad she is out and doing better. As for the sending unit, that's a different approach. I guess as long as you don't put something heavy on that spot the bed liner will support things?

Max torque for an '84 is at either 1400 or 1600 depending on the model. You can see that here: Documentation/Engines/300 Six and then the Specifications tab. Scroll down to the page on 1984.

Have a good trip! But don't forget to check codes at some point.

Wayne - We quit the "willing to help" bit a couple of years ago. It just got too complicated. We just assume everyone is willing to help now.

E8TZ 6A868-B 85/ F250/350 "From 1/23/85"

Pretty expensive for a 3/8" brass cup: 352532-S 80/ E100/300, F100/250,U150 - - 4/W/D plug (oil level indicator hole in block) — cup-3/8"