Gary Lewis

Pete - That REALLY looks great! You've given it a remarkable transformation. Well done! How 'bout showing us the gauges and they look really sharp?

Nice clean post, Kevin. You are learning quickly! (To others, I've already not only welcomed Kevin elsewhere, but we put his town on the map! )

Sure thing, Kevin. You are now on the map. But I have a suggestion for you. It appears that you are posting by replying to the email. That works, but it copies in a whole bunch of junk from the previous post. And, worse yet, it is placing your phone number and street address out on the internet for the world to see. I've put a screenshot of what we are seeing of your posts, and circled both the extra stuff that doesn't need to be there as well as your address and phone number - which you do NOT want there. The better way to post is to click on the link under the phrase "If you reply to this email, your message will be added to the discussion below:" and that will log you on to the forum looking at that post. Then you can reply and there won't be the extra nor your detaills. Don't worry, we understand this is your first forum, so we'll work with you on this. Welcome to the family!

Well, I usually ask if the new member wants to be on our map (Bullnose Forum/Member's Map in the menu), and while I'm willing to add you it sounds like you are just in for a quick answer. So let's cut to the chase. Please go to our page at Documentation/Engines/300 Six and on the Illustrations tab scroll down to the 2nd picture. Is what you are looking for #7007? That is the generic part # for an "engine plate" for any Ford vehicle anywhere in the world. You need the full part number, which will be something like E0TZ 7007-A, but that probably isn't the right number. If so, then go to Documentation/Driveline/Engine Plates and find the full part number for the one you need. And then you can do a Google search for that part on the internet. And, in the Market Place/Want To Buy folder you could create a new thread/topic for what you are looking for.

Well, you did post in the right place, the New Members Start Here folder. But that isn't what I was expecting in an introduction "about yourself and your truck", as the email I sent you requested. So how about doing a bit more of an intro into the family? Then we can discuss the engine plate.

David - My join date was August 4, 2017. So the forum has been in existence for 3 years and 7 months tomorrow. (And, by the way, we have 1,010 members.) As for any correlation, I'll sit back and see what people say. But, I'd rephrase the question slightly to "What is the correlation between the recent increase in Bullnose pricing and Gary's Garagemahal Forum the Bullnose Forum & Bullnose Bible"?? The reason for that is because the forum and the documentation provide somewhat different types of support. In other words, we have 1,010 members on the forum, but yesterday we had 830 different users on the site. So we are serving a larger audience than just the forum members since it is very unlikely that most of the members didn't visit the forum yesterday.

Have you found our page at Documentation/Specifications/Exterior Paint Codes? There you can decode your 5U & 6Q to the 4-digit Ford color "Prefix Base". I've never tried, but I have always assumed that with the 4-digit # you could find a Ditzler or DuPont or some other paint vendor's #.

Have you not found our 1985 EVTM? It is at Documentation/Electrical/EVTM/1985 EVTM in the menu. However, it is specifically for the F-Series and full-sized Broncos, not the E-Series vans. But Ford was pretty consistent in the wire colors and systems, so it should help. And it does have the 5.0L EFI info in it.

My plan on the heat source is to just use one shroud as finding good shrouds for the original side is hard, and finding one for the other side is probably impossible. However, you can make a shroud if you really want to. But when the engine is cold you really shouldn't be using much throttle, so heat from one shroud should suffice. And I plan to close off the hot-air intake on the driver's side so it won't be sucking cold air. That way the air temp controller will be able to close off the inlets and get warm air.

I hope you are right, Jim. I really do. But by '85 it should have had a feedback carb if it came with a carb. The '85 brochure says that the 302 2V was to have been canceled in November, which I would assume was Nov of '84, when EFI was introduced. So the first batch of 302's, from whenever production started, which might have been July or August, would have had a carb. So to get it all working would be a task as I think the inspector will initially make a visual check to see that everything it was supposed to have from the factory is there and hooked up. He's going to know pretty quickly that it didn't come with a Holley carb. The first question for me would be whether the computer is still under the dash and the wires are connected and go out to the carb. If so, it might be possible to get the whole system working. If not it will be a huge project. Again, all I know is what I've read, and I REALLY hope I'm wrong. We really need to get some people with knowledge of the CA laws to chime in. I'm going to ping Mark/Dyn Blin as he might know.

Yep, Jim is spot-on. I had an issue with the management of FTE and Internet Brands, which owns FTE and many, many other forums on the internet. I tried to resolve it but couldn't, so set this up with an eye to what I didn't like about over there - the advertising and the lack of control. So here we have no advertising, or annual fees to get rid of advertising. And we are in control of our own destiny, which means we've made a number of changes to the forum to fit our needs, like changing the emoticons and other little things that make it "ours". But several people on here are also on there. In fact, I was on FTE yesterday to resolve a problem they were having with posting documentation from here. (The way they were doing it doesn't work, but the way I suggested does.) So there's no war. And you are free to chose which you like best.

Jay - Welcome! Glad you joined. As for getting a CO truck certified in CA, I'm not sure that can be done. But I hope you can do it. I know some areas in CA are more strict than others, so maybe you live in one of the less-strict ones? Otherwise, my very limited understanding is that only CA-spec vehicles can meet the standards, and then only if everything is on them and operative. I hope I'm wrong though. Speaking of where you live, we have a map (Bullnose Forum/Member's Map in the menu) and we can add you if you'd like. Just need a city or a zip.

That's about as big as they were. As for whether or not they work, the factory put them on specific trucks for a reason, but I suspect it was a whole bunch of little things that made the difference. Anyway, like Dane said, let us know how it goes.

Looks good!

Jim - I pulled the trigger on this one: Standard Motor Products S743 Pigtail/Socket. It'll be ~$15 and should be here Thursday. Thanks anyway.

Thanks, Jim. I've been looking for it as well and have found these: JBG: Says it is for 1978-79 Ford Bronco & 1973-79 Ford F100, F150, F250, F350. But it looks right, and is only $15. Clips & Fasteners via Amazon: Basically $15 also, but would be here March 5th - 10th. It, too, looks correct. Both of them look like this, which appears to be correct. Yes?

Looks good, but you are right that the picture doesn't do it any justice. Anyway, you should consider making them.

More layers of the onion.

That's a great price. Good find!

Gonna be a long report, so I'll start with the question so y'all won't have to read everything. The last thing I did today was to work on the installation of the electric shifter for the OX locker. During that I had a question so called them, again, and talked to Chip. Again. Man, is he helpful! If you are looking for a locker and want customer support I can recommend OX. With Chip's help I got the Drive Away Lock removed and the cable installed to the diff. The DAL is a device you put in the tool box for use if your electric shifter fails. It threads in where the cable goes in the diff and lets you engage manually. Then I played with where to put the shifter mechanism, and I think this one is the best. You can see the 2 1/2" thick aluminum block between the mechanism and the frame. That gets the shifter flush with the edge of the frame and allows the cable to just miss the frame at the top red arrow. But it does touch the shock at the bottom red arrow. In both cases I'll split a piece of hose and put it over the cable for protection. As for clearance to the header, that's 7". Thoughts? Now for the report I gave Janey: Do you want the good, the gooder, or the poor? Let's start with the good. First, I tapped into the BK/PK wire after the transmission's reverse switch and ran that to the switch in Mission Contron. Then I ran the #12 wire from the connection to the lights and trailer connector at the rear of the truck up to the relay and soldered in. And, I put convolute over both of those wires and secured it. Which brings me to the "gooder". While running the #12 along the frame I found a hose hanging between the frame and the midship tank. Turns out it was the vent hose and it had come off the fitting on the tank, which probably explains the leak. So I pulled it off the metal vent line on the truck, confirmed that it was 3/16", and got some new hose out. It went on the vent tubing on the truck nicely, but refused to go on the vent on the tank. Turns out that is 1/4" on the new tanks, and while I'd gotten the old 3/16" line to go on there, it gradually worked its way off. But a piece of 1/4" fuel line did go on the tank and the 3/16" fuel line went inside it snugly, so I think that problem is fixed and I won't have to lower the tank to replace the gasket. And now for the "poor". It was finally time to test the backup lights. Sure enough, when I clicked the switch into the "always on" position the lights came on and I heard the relay click under the hood. But when I turned the key on and put the tranny in Reverse they didn't come on nor did the relay click. Back under the truck I found that the backup light connector wasn't fully on the switch, but when I pushed it on the relay clicked and the lights came on. At least they did until I let go of the connector. But when I let go the lights went off. Turns out that the connector is bad, as shown below. Anybody have a good source for that connector? (I'll look in the pigtails catalog, but thought someone might know where to get it.)

Welcome! Glad you joined. Would you like to be on our map? Bullnose Forum/Member's Map in the menu. Happy to put you on. You got two Bulls for the price of one! I'm never going to remember "Squirlye", so could you create a signature and include that? How to do that is in Bullnose Forum/Forum FAQ's.

Bill - I think you are WRONG! You forgot studying whether it should be replaced with an LED or incandescent bulb, and of what color/temp. You make it way, way too easy!

Good video and I like the idea of adding a spring for return. Your statement, Gary, is absolutely correct. The one he is using is the same as the one I have and I use it much more often than the big one. He is spot on with wishing it had a flat base though Jim - I'll ask him. But he's using an un-tinned terminal and I like to used tinned terminals exactly for the reason he mentioned - they don't corrode as easily. So I won't want to use whatever terminal he's using. But I might be able to find the same one already tinned. (Yes, I could tin them, but now you might as well solder them on. I think we are parked, man!)

You know I can't install a light bulb in three weeks. And I don't eat cookies at nap time. Cookies require coffee, and if I drink coffee just before a nap I'll have to get up in the middle of it to go to the bathroom.

Danny - No problems. And the way you responded is the cleanest way. Well done!