Gary Lewis

While awaiting everyone's recommendations on actuator motors, I'll move on to my plans on mounting the security module. And that plan is to mount it in the area used by a mono speaker under the dash pad. As shown in the pic below, the device is tiny in comparison to the speaker opening, so I think I'll make a plate to screw to the screw holes for the speaker. But what would be kind of cool would be to gut an original 5 1/2 x 7 1/2" speaker and use it for the mounting. That would recess the module so it would easily clear the cover. Unfortunately I don't have any of those speakers, so guess I'll make a plate. But I think I'll have to space a plate down somewhat for the module to clear the cover. And, I want enough room to put a bit of insulation over it so that when the sun is beating down on the dash it won't be fried. Anyway, that mounting position will make it easy to wire up as most of the circuits I need are very close to that position. But it does look like I will have to run a few wires through the firewall for things like the siren, pin switches for the tool box, and controls to the bed cover.

I think you'll be happy with that choice. And for $1k with a warranty you can't go wrong.

Hey! It is really started to look like a car, Bill. Really starting to take shape. One of these days it'll be done and you will be driving it - and loving it!

Thanks, Bill. As you see in the schematic, the inputs to the relays are fused at 15 amps, and those fuses and holders are from Code Alarm and are part of their wiring harness. I put a 10 amp fuse in a holder and powered one of my lock motors several times and never blew the fuse, so I think we are fine there. EDIT: Yes, I'll amaze them. Speaking of lock motors, I have several working lock motors from various trucks I've disassembled, and while most of them work, all of them have torn boots. In fact, some boots aren't even in existence anymore, and the very best one is shown below - and it has a gaping hole in the side. I'm loathe to buy new lock motors just because the boots are bad because new ones that mount like the one below appear to be $45/ea. But I don't want to have to go back into the doors later because the rain and dirt killed a motor. Anyone have any ideas on what to use for boots?

Next up is the door lock/unlock wiring. Big Blue doesn't have any of the factory wiring, so I'm going to make it simple and use the Code Alarm system to do all the electric locking/unlocking and I'll use the pins in the doors to lock/unlock if I'm in the cab. In other words, I'm not going to install switches to control the locks, which will keep the wiring simple. But the lock motors are 2-wire motors so you have to put 12v to one side and ground to the other to lock, and reverse that polarity to unlock. Fortunately the Code Alarm ca1155e makes that fairly easy as it has on-board lock relays, and while it handles the connections to terminals 85 & 86, the coils, you have full access to 30, 87, and 87a. So I think I'll wire things as shown below, which means that: When the lock relay is pulled in the Green/Black wire will be at 12 volts and the Blue/Black wire will be at ground When the unlock relay is pulled in the Green/Black wire will be at ground and the Blue/Black wire will be at 12 volts And the optional programming has to do with the length of time the relays are closed. The preset value is 1 second, which should be fine, but there are options from .5 seconds to 30 seconds if that needs to be changed.

This thread is to work through the wiring I'm going to do for my security system, which is a Code Alarm ca1155e. (No, I'm not going to divulge all of my secrets here.) And first up is the wiring for the bed cover. Yes, the bed cover I'm going to install, a Pace Edwards Bed Locker, has an electric motor to roll it out and back. (I'm sure some of you are rolling your eyes, but the decision is made so...) It has an optional switch, # BL1120, that plugs into the controller and can be mounted in the cab. But it is just two wires and a SPDT center-off switch. And the instructions say to ground the center terminal and connect the wires to the top and bottom terminals of the switch. In other words, all it takes is a ground to make the cover open or close. The security system has two negative-going outputs that I'll use, described in a bit, and each can sink 300ma. So I could have them pull in two relays to provide a close or open signal to the cover. However Tony, the tech at Pace Edwards, said he thinks the two wires may be just pulling in relays on their board, so it is possible that I can connect the Code Alarm's outputs directly to the Bed Locker's inputs. He's sending me pics of the circuit board, which may let me figure that out, but if not I'll just measure the current once I get the cover. Those two outputs are Aux 1 Output and Trunk Release Output, shown below. Note that both have a "P" with them, and as the note says that means they can be programmed. In the case of the Trunk Release, which is operated by a single button on the remote, and the programming options are 1 Sec; 10 Sec; 20 Sec; Latched until IGN ON; or Latched ON until Button Press. I'll use the latter, which should mean that the cover will open once I push the button and stop when I push it again. The Aux 1 function is triggered by pressing both Lock & Unlock at the same time, and its programming options are Push and Hold; Latched; Latched until IGN ON; & Dome Light Ouput. I'll use Push & Hold so that the cover will close as long as you hold the buttons down. And, that's how I plan to interface the Code Alarm ca1155e to a Pace Edwards Bed Locker.

Ok, time to close this thread out. I just ordered the Pace Edwards Bed Locker with Explorer Rails. That's the electrically-powered one, and the reason for that is mainly due to the fact that twisting of the bed in offroad crossups can cause a manually-locked cover to come open. Tony, the tech at Pace Edwards said the bed will flex enough that the pall on the cover will get pulled out of the stop strip inside the track. But the electrically-powered one won't do that. However, they don't have the 6' 8" Explorer rails in stock so will have to make those and I probably won't get the unit for about a month. Which is ok 'cause I have lots of other things to do. Anyway, thanks for all the input.

More layers of the onion. Feels good, doesn't it!

Congrat's! Not only do you have a good-riding truck with the correct alignment, but you know an honest alignment tech.

Someone may have put an oil pressure switch in when it should be a sending unit. If you have jumper wires you could connect that device to the wire for collar temp, and oil pressure wire to the sender for the coolant temp. The gauges are identical so that way you can test both gauges and sending units.

Yep. Which is why I have a call in to my existing insurance company to let them know I have applied elsewhere for insurance on Big Blue. Last time I asked about better/different insurance they told me to take it to the local classic used car guy and have him appraise it. He knows so little about things that he's asked me in the past!

You are now on the map, Chase.

Thanks, Jim. You beat me to it. Chase - You can find the right part number for the spindle you need from that chart, and perhaps find a new one via a Google search of that #.

Welcome, Chase! Glad you joined. Suger Land? Used to live in Katy, so I know the area. Would you like to be on our map (Bullnose Forum/Member's Map in the menu)? We can put you on. The '69 Charger R/T is the big brother to my '69 Super Bee. I bought a Bee new in '69, and bought this one 15 years ago to restore - but then got into these trucks. I look forward to following your thread on the truck.

Yes, and no. A signature is not required, but with over 1000 members there's no way we can keep straight what each person is working on, so it sure helps us give you good answers. However, you don't want to put a whole lot of detail in the signatures. Mine is pretty long. But, we are talking about two different things - an introduction thread/topic, and a signature. So at the top of this page click on Bullnose Enthusiasts Forum and then scroll down and click on the New Members Start Here folder link. Read the guidelines, and then click on New Topic, which lets you create a new topic/thread where you can introduce yourself and tell us a bit about your truck, but just a bit. We'll welcome you, ask general questions, etc. Meanwhile you can create the signature. And we can come back here and discuss spindles.

Chase - Welcome to the forum. However, this appears to be your first post, and the email you were sent asked you to go to the New Members Start Here folder, read the guidelines, and then start a new topic/thread to introduce yourself. And after that you'd be free to post elsewhere in the forum. You've not done that and I ask that you do so before we discuss finding a spindle. Why? Because we have the guidelines spelled out in that folder and since we hold people to those guidelines we think it is important that you have a chance to read them. Also, we are a community, not a one-shot help-me-find-this place, and we like to get to know people. We'll ask questions about you and your truck, and generally get to know you. So please do that and then come back here and we can discuss the spindle.

Yipes! At first I thought it was just one picture and it was due to the lighting. But all of them are that color. are needed, for sure. And, for that price

Looks great! I think you are going to be doing a lot of the TLC on it, but it will be well worth it in the end.

WOW!!! That is a time piece! The pics look like from a brochure. Man, that thing is wonderful.

Glad you got it swapped out. And on those bolts there are few ratcheting wrenches that will get in there, so it takes a while. I'm guessing that the holes had gasket material in them. So cleaning them up would have been needed, like you did. Yes, it appears that the old t-case needs rebuilt. Glad you found another one to replace it.

HAHAHAHA. Well said David, well said. As their chart shows, the prices on these trucks have gone up ~50% in the last year, and that was to January. They may come back down a bit, but I doubt they'll lose the 50% gain they made. So don't sell your truck short, literally.

Excellent! I'm looking forward to following the journey.

Not a bad price for that stuff. Some of the paperwork wouldn't be applicable, but it might be interesting nonetheless.

I'd jump at ceramic for $80. Well done!

The agent said we'll add the replacement value of the truck to the documented money you have in it and ask to insure it for that. So that's what we did. We'll see what they say. But I'm not sure "brave" is the right word.