Gary Lewis

500 tabs! And I thought I was bad! Anyway, I like the design and I like the Perfect Block idea. It was impressive seeing that gal carry that block and put it in place. And then saw it with a hand saw. But they put rebar in the cavities and then run "grout" in that ties everything together? (I put grout in quotes as it looks more like cement.) So basically you are using the blocks both as a form as well as the insulation? So with an R32 you'd have basically the equivalent of 10" of fiberglass. But do you use the blocks to do the ceiling as well? If so, how do you get to the R38-49 that is recommended in the ceiling? As for cooling, I think I'd go refrigeration. Keeps the house cleaner, reduces your water carrying, and you don't have the crusties. Besides, with the heat pump capability you won't need another furnace.

In my experience the first thing to go are the bushings. Especially the ones at the back of the radius arms. They'll make the truck take off in a new direction on bumps or when you touch the brakes.

I like it! Like Scott, I've chucked a bunch of the switch bezels, and the fact that they break so easily was part of the decision not to put switches in Big Blue while adding door locks. I don't remember exactly where they typically break as I don't have broken ones around, but your system takes care of that? Price? I don't have a suggestion. What are you thinking?

Watch out, David!!!!!

You want tabs Wiring It/Wiring Changes/Ammeter/2G and then Monitoring At The Battery is best.

If you have a 2G then you could use the new page we are working on: http://www.garysgaragemahal.com/3g-conversion---in-development.html.

Yep. With everything sealed you are trying to compress the air in the cab when the windows are up. I think the 87 and later trucks had a vent to make shutting the door easier.

Welcome! The least I could do.

The MPC shows that applying to all the F-Series and Broncos from 1980 through 1989, which is as far as it goes. HOWEVER, A7T was Caramel and it was only used in 1980. So if that really is an A7T it came from a 1980 truck. Here's the entry for 1986, and I've highlighted the uses of E3TZ 1013010:

How 'bout these, David? Will be on their way to you in a day or two.

Good to know, Rob. And the idea of it moving with the seat back is good 'cause I'll be getting behind the seat a lot. I wonder if it could be put on a bungee cord to be pulled back as the seat back is returned.

Not bad for $2500. But it is begging for a Bullnose conversion.

Duh, my bad, I'm getting old. And I can't blame it on me being a newbie either! I've been on many Ford sites over the years, and the Doc/Specs that Gary put together are excellent. No prob. Glad others are finding the pages.

Yes. Which is why you can't put a tach in a cluster with idiot lights.

That's a very good point, Jim. I'd not thought about that. So I Googled it and found this, which seems to make sense and fits with what you are saying. Basically it says to monitor lambda instead of AFR since the meter is assuming gasoline because it doesn't know what is in the tank. So if Dave is running 10% ethanol his reading of 17 is actually ~16.24. (14.04/14.7*17 = 16.24)

Mark - I think she'll like the Ranger. I've heard good things about them. And your engine is looking good. But Jim is right, my engine is a 400, although the block was originally a 351M, and it was built by Tim Meyer. I don't remember what rockers he used on the TFS heads. Sorry.

Josh - No problem. You are now on the map.

Morning, David. I may have them. Will check when I get to the shop.

Actually the MPC says: 81/86 F100/350,U150 E1TZ 10K843-A #E1TF 10C956-AA - use on instrument cluster w/charge indicator and oil pressure warning lights

Wow, that is an excellent price!

Yes, I hope it solves lots of problems. MPG, AFR, etc.

Josh - Welcome! I think you missed the email asking you to go the New Members Start Here folder, read the guidelines, and then start a thread to introduce yourself. But you've done the latter, so could you assure me you've read the guidelines? So, where's home? I ask because we have a map (Bullnose Forum/Member's Map in the menu) and we'd be happy to add you if we had a city & state or zip. It is a shame your previous truck got scrapped. Save for it being a Supercab it was quite similar to what Big Blue was new. (He's changed a bit. ) Anyway, I'll let the others suggest what they think you ought to do. But I'm sure you know that a 460 is thirsty, and if you put a C6 behind it the combination is downright glutenous.

Yep, there are times when you have to bite the bullet and get good stuff. I probably should have in this case, but in actuality I'm coming out pretty well since the Ford lock motors I have work well but just needed some protection from the elements. So, with a good cleanup and lubrication, plus the boots and grommets, I think we are good to go. And the overall cost was less than new motors. But it is frustrating to get absolute JUNK!

Yep, loosen up on the strikers. But if you set the truck out in the sun with the doors closed the weather stripping will squish.

Good point. You can say what you want about tech, but when it works it is nice. I'd much rather tow with Blue that Big Blue. Why? The 3.5L will out pull the 7.5L and get better MPG doing it. It got 9.0 MPG running 75 MPH towing Big Blue on a heavy trailer. And it got about 14 pulling the trailer down to Florida to get BB, but BB gets about 9 towing the same trailer unloaded. The sway control manages the trailer brakes to keep the two vehicles in line. Plus compression braking. Plus the auto tranny. Plus, plus, plus. And yes, Blue is rated to tow 11,500 lbs - almost exactly what Big Blue is rated to tow. A whole lot has changed in 30 years. But, I like working on Big Blue.