Gary Lewis

Update on two things. First, I've realized now that the "old" Sony DSX-GS80 had a problem with the clock as well as the BT. Turned this one on today to make sure that the remote I have in the truck works it (it does) and noticed that the time is right. They have a mode where they are to get the time off the airwaves, RDS mode, and that rarely worked on the old one, but appears to be working well on the new one. Then I turned to the O2 sensor for the AFR meter. Pulled the old one and tried to put the heat sink, shown below, in and found that the threads of the bung where carboned up. So I ran a tap through them and then put the heat sink in. The divot you can see in the flat of the hex must point upstream, but it pointed downstream. So I checked my supply of copper washers and none were that big. Went to the parts stores and 2 of the 3 were closed and the 3rd, O'Reilly's, didn't have anything close. What I need is 18MM ID & 24MM OD, and that's hard to find. But I found this MuHize Copper Washers kit from Amazon has 15 of them in it. It'll be here on Wednesday so I guess I'll start on the wiring in the interim.

You might be able to just move the switch back a bit and test. Move & test. You want to get all of the several circuits in the switch to "make" when the key is in Run.

I'd pull the R/LB wire from the starter relay and put a test light on it. Then get in the cab and turn the ignition switch to watch where the light comes on. I'm guessing that it comes on at the same spot where the starter starts spinning. If so then you know the problem is in the ignition switch circuit. If that's the case then I think there's a problem with the switch - either a bad one or still not adjusted correctly. Do you have the old switch? If so I'd put a pin in it as explained on the Ignition page and install and adjust it. Then try it.

If it is wired correctly then I'd bet the ignition switch is not adjusted correctly. The instructions for that are on the Ignition tab on our page at Documentation/Electrical/Ignition.

No! That was me! Actually, it was the old sage, Bill. Isn't he a wealth of knowledge? Glad you found it.

I agree, please take it easy.

First you say: Then you say: So, which is it? Eddy heads & intake and a custom cam from Scotty doesn't quite seem "mildly warmed over".

Big Blue leaves about the end of May for Utah. And yes, documenting it all is a big undertaking. Fortunately I have the forum and the various threads I can go back to. And in those threads are the many documents I've created as I didn't do much of anything w/o documenting it in some way. I have these documents embedded in the first post of this thread, and I've updated them as the project has grown: Big Blue's Overview: This gives, as the name implies, an overview of what the plan was and what was done - in three pages instead of the 368 pages in the thread. Big Blue's Spec's: This is a bullet list of what was done in a format that I've printed and display at shows. Big Blue's Parts List: The idea here is to have a list of parts that are on the truck so we don't have to go searching in the thread to find out what fluid is used in the power steering/brake system, spark plugs, bearings, etc. Charging & Power Distribution System Schematic: Shows at a high level what the major components are, but has no detail for the two power distribution boxes. Passenger's Side Power Distribution Box: Details the wiring within that PDB, including relays & fuses, and will have to change when I use the stator connection to trigger the relay that is no called Key On and will then be Engine On. And it'll show a feed to the Innovate AFR gauge as well as the voltmeter. Driver's Side Power Distribution Box: Ditto the PS side, but this is mainly the fuses & relays for the EFI system. SWITCHES ABOVE RADIO - "MISSION CONTROL": Schematic for those switches. ECU Wiring & Pinouts: Includes a description of the circuit, the wire colors, and the pin it goes to on the ECU. Code Alarm CA115E alarm system: Has all of the wires listed and how used, but no schematic, which might be helpful. And, as discussed, more documentation is needed.

Hi, Rene. But that was Bill that answered your question, not me.

Hey Gary, how is it going with Big Blue’s jobs compilation (repository? or encyclopedia ? ). I was looking at some pictures of Big Brother’s renovation, and you made me realize that such documentation would be interesting to compile, if not for the posterity at least to help my own aging memory. Not really well, Jeff. I have several documents that show various things. And I've printed the documents and have them in the folder called Big Blue's Documentation that goes with the truck. But there are several holes in the documentation. And I realize that the printouts don't have the name of the document in them so I can't easily get back to them. Plus, they aren't all in the same place on my OneDrive. Holes include: Fuel Pump Wiring: As posted in the discussion of how to wire the AFR meter, I have a diagram that is a combination of the 1996 EVTM and the 1985 EVTM. It shows how the fuel pumps are wired, but I don't have that in the folder yet, partially because it ought to be at least 11 x 17" or printed on two pages. Fuel Gauge Wiring: And while digging the fuel pump wiring diagram out I remembered that there's a relay in the fuel gauge wiring that isn't shown in the EVTM. Nor is the MeterMatch shown. The relay is documented but that isn't in the folder, and the MeterMatch wiring isn't documented. Key On Relay: If I do what Jim suggested, and I probably will, I'll need to revise the documentation to show the "Key On" relay as the "Engine On" relay and change the trigger wire from the LG/R key-on signal to the W/Bk stator signal. Plus change where the AFR meter gets its power in the other documents. Security System: I also need to document how the Code Alarm system is implemented. I have a schematic that shows that but it is buried in a thread and I need to print it and put it in the binder. Front/Rear Cameras: The Pormido system isn't complex, but I should draw it up and put it in the binder. Does that answer the question?

I had serial #1, and yes they fixed the problem. I've put many miles on it since installing it and would do it again.

Don't worry Gary, it is in my plans! BTW, I went to my local NAPA. All their providers had no stock of 95A and 130A "Taurus 94-95". The guy took the phone and made couple of calls. After 30 minutes of searching, he found one, will arrive by next Monday. Fate made the decision for me, it will be a 130A. A remanufactured unit, from CVC Techno, a Montreal based alternator and starter remanufacturing company for all types of vehicles. Hoping it is good quality, but I am confident since this appears to be a serious company, more than 50 years of expertise. Details:MFR: FordType: F4DU-10300-CA, F58U-10300-AB, F58Z-10346-A, F58Z-19346-AARM1, F58Z-10346-ARM, F58Z-10346-ARM4, F5PU-10346-CAMFR Series: 3G Application:Ford Car: Taurus V6 3.8L 232cid 1994-1995Ford Van: Windstar V6 3.8L 232cid 1995 and 232cid VIN 4 1995Mercury Car: Sable V6 3.8L 232cid 1994-1995 I'll wait to have it and see the two bolts modification I'll may have to do. Question: What size for the MegaFuse?Sometimes fate makes the right decisions for us. :nabble_smiley_wink:If it is a 130A alternator I'd go with a 150A fuse.

Got the new Sony DSX-GS80 installed today and it doesn't auto-pair Bluetooth devices. And, it doesn't forget my phone, even when the Garmin is turned on. And I got the Crutchfield bass blockers installed on the rear channels, the little 4" speakers up by our ears. The bass blockers are capacitors that act at high-pass filters, rolling off at a 6dB rate below 300 hertz. That's because these speakers cannot reproduce those frequencies so taking them out of their feed will clear up their response. And the system sounds good - at least sitting still with the engine off.

I think I understand, Jeff. My problem is that it is so obvious to me as I've been reading schematics since I was a kid, and I don't realize it isn't obvious to others. So I appreciate your help. When your upgrade, our prototype, works then we'll need to go through the steps showing people how to do it themselves. So please take plenty of pics as you do the installation and I'll have to put them with the pics I took while making the harness and come up with the step-by-step.

If DeWayne can't get them I'll call up John at Bumper To Bumper. Both of them contributed neat gifts for the show last year. As did O'Reilly's, come to think of it. So I'll give them all the business I can

Well, hem… Gary, I would respectfully pretend that I found the “missing link” in your diagram. I appreciate your respect, Jeff, but your own picture tends appears to show the W/Bk wire as the center wire of the 3-terminal connector.

Yes, Amazon has them for $36.88 for 8 and says they fit Big Blue. But I started the conversation with DeWayne and I'll give him my business 'cause I know him.

I went with a single MeterMatch, and even though the tanks are of completely different shapes the gauge is pretty accurate. They come off full within 15 miles, hit 1/2 @ about 125 - 130 miles, and have a couple of gallons left when they are fully on E. But individual MeterMatches would be great 'cause you could really tune them.

My parts man, DeWayne/93F3507.3 at Skiatook Auto Parts, is a member on here. Rarely, if ever, on but knows his Fords. Was telling me yesterday about the 70's F250 w/a 3.0 axle and a 460 he'd built. Even with the tall gears he surprised lots of people with an old truck. Called him today and he was busy, so I said "I want the NGK copper plugs and I think they are the 6630 V-Power ones but you might check when you get the time, and then order them, please." No mention of price but just "order them, please". He'll call me tomorrow and tell me when they are in.

Jeff - If you have a 7V choke heater then you do splice that wire into the W/Bk on the harness I sent. But your diagram is the same as mine, with the difference being that you call out the splice. Mine doesn't call out any actions as it was just to show the wiring. But if we get further into this we may need to call out lots of actions.

I think it'll be long enough, Bradley. Looks good!

Welcome! Glad you joined.

Ok, I asked DeWayne to order the NGK 6630 V-Power plugs. He was busy so I don't know when they'll come in, but he'll get them and I'll put them in before the trip. Thanks, guys.

Looks very good!

Glad you got the steering sorted. But hope you didn't have to adjust the new box. The process for making that adjustment isn't easy and needs to be done with the Pitman arm disconnected.