Gary Lewis

You are a candidate for the Electrical & Vacuum Troubleshooting Manual (EVTM) from Ford. It breaks the wiring diagram into systems. And the specific set of pages you need are here: http://www.garysgaragemahal.com/charge--power-distribution---gasoline-engines.html, the significant pages of which I'll paste below. I'm going to guess that you have a blown fuse link. Most of those are attached to the starter relay on the fender, and the easiest way to check them is to pull on them. A blown one will stretch like a rubber band 'cause the wire inside is blown. A good one is a solid piece of wire.

Boom(er), you are on the map.

Yes, welcome! Glad you joined. Where in "north central Florida"? I ask because we have a map (Bullnose Forum/Member's Map in the menu) and could add you if we had a city or zip. Nice looking Bronco. If you drove it that far home there must not be a lot of serious things wrong with it. I'll bet you can put it right.

Welcome! Glad you joined. Interesting handle - Boomer. That is usually followed by "Sooner" around here in Okiehoma. So, where's home? We have a map (Bullnose Forum/Member's Map in the menu) and could add you with a zip or city/state. As for the part numbers, what you see in illustrations are the base part numbers. So, for instance, a front spindle is "3105". But that's the base part number for every spindle used on every Ford vehicle in the world. You need a prefix, like E0TZ, and a suffix, like A, to make a part number: E0TZ 3105-A. Anyway, hope you'll start a thread to show us what you are doing on your resurrection.

I'm at a loss. The fluid clearly isn't moving in the pump. My only suggestion is to check out the Saginaw section of the FSM at Documentation/Steering & Suspension/Power Steering and then the Pumps and Saginaw tabs.

Your badge (name plate in Fordspeak) should be PN E0TZ 16720-AA, as seen on the page at Documentation/Exterior/Name Plates.

Not much to show for today, but I did get two wires run through the firewall - one for the siren and one for the hood pin switch. And I got the pin switch installed and connected. But the siren will probably require removing the grille to get it where I want it, so that's on the list of things to do tomorrow.

We don't put the pins exactly where the people live as we don't want people to show up on our doorsteps. In fact, I don't suggest posting your address as the forum can be seen by anyone on the internet. So you might want to edit your post and remove your address.

Pictures are a problem on this site. See the how-to in Bullnose Forum/Forum FAQ's. But even that isn't definitive. And, I added you to the map. But I had to move you 'cause Chris/ctubutis was already in Littleton, so I moved you a bit.

I've made the changes, so would appreciate your feedback. Basically, the way to get to any manual or piece of literature is to click on the Manuals & Literature page in the menu, which will open up the Index & Contents table with all of its links to the documents. This has helped me get my head around this just a bit more. So let me state what I think the three ways to do this are: Menu: We could just rely on the menu system of the website and have everything available via it. But that has the distinct problem of then needing to have every piece of documentation in the Manuals & Literature section, even if it is elsewhere. For instance the EVTM, as was explained previously, would have to be in M&L as well as Electrical. Table: This is what we have as of now. Everything is shown in the table, and there's no harm or foul if something is actually housed in the Electrical section as the link in the table takes you to it, regardless of where it is. However, there is only one entry for everything, so something big like the FSM will have to have its own menu system, so I'll have to create that using its Book & Section tables and hot links. But you can see an example of how that works in the 1986 Engine/Emissions Diagnosis manual as it has the hyperlinks on Ford's Contents page. Both: This is what I was trying to create, but it gets very complex, both for me to orchestrate as well as for the user to navigate given the large number of documents and the depth of the menus that creates. So please check this out and let me know what problems you see.

Thanks, Scott. But I just had an excellent conversation with John/Machspeed regarding this. And here's the plan: Manuals & Literature: He recommended we change from Literature & Manuals to Manuals & Literature. Index & Contents: The table is "the thing" and gives a wonderful overview of what is on the site. So why have the pop-out menus? So, I'm going to "hide" the years and move the Contents & Index to the Manuals & Literature page. That means the only page will be the main, Manuals & Literature, page with the Index & Contents on it and you'll find everything from there. Work: This will make it much easier for me. For instance, we already have links to the EVTM's in the Index & Contents table, and this way I don't have anything to do there. Otherwise, if we had everything in the Manuals & Literature section I'd have to have the EVTM's in there as well as the Electrical section. I hope this works for you, but I'm going to give it a try. Thanks, John.

Thanks for the closure on this. And, glad it fit so well.

Dane - Thanks. I've been waiting to get other input before I responded, but it doesn't look like there will be others. But, I know that John/Machspeed is going to call me this afternoon about this. So after that, assuming he agrees and others don't have a better idea, I'll get started rearranging the Literature & Manuals section. And the plan is to make the first cut by topic and the second by year.

Yup. The 6.6L engine in Dad's truck hit 400 HP and 500 ft-lbs on the dyno. The 7.5L in Big Blue is said to be only 360 - 370 HP and 500 ft-lbs, although it has not been on the dyno. Both were spec'd to get the power down low, which holds the HP down. But, it makes it more useable in a truck. So I have no doubt that either engine could have hit the 430 HP # they got out of the 6.2L had I wanted HP and not low-end torque. As for the price, I agree it is obscene. But in this day and age someone will buy it.

Nice looking truck. I like the 400, though most don't. Built right they have great torque, don't weigh as much as the 460, and will get better MPG. But if you are going with the 351W you should change the engine stands, the things the engines sit down onto and that are bolted and riveted to the frame. The Windsors take different ones than the M-blocks. They are shown on the page at Documentation/Exterior/Frames/Engine Perches. On the driveshaft, I've had two 351M trucks and two 351W trucks, and all took a one-piece driveshaft.

Cool! An ebay seller that knows of us. Guess we are coming up in the world.

Welcome! Glad you joined. I look forward to following your progress on the project. Where's home? I ask because we have a map (Bullnose Forum/Member's Map in the menu) and could add you if we had a city/state or zip.

That should work very nicely. Well done!

You can tell it is abrasive stuff just looking at the black rubber marks on the trail. And they are solid rocks that don't move on you. From what little I've seen in Colorado you are either on shale, which provides little traction as it slides on you, or truly hard, slick rock. I would guess that is very, very different from Moab.

No, not a bad day. Hope you get to quit cripping soon.

I thought some of you might enjoy this article on ICON 4x4s ‘Old School Edition’ FJ44. These two paragraphs reminded me of something. How 'bout you? http://www.garysgaragemahal.com/uploads/6/5/8/7/65879365/thinking-26_orig.jpg Thoughts?

Amazing scenery! Love it! But I'm not sure about some of those ascents. That looks a bit steep for me. I keep thinking of "what would happen if..." But, as you've said, you have to get used to it and learn what you, and your machine, can do.

Bryan - I'm glad it will help you. And to help more I updated the pic above with the location of my ground for the security system. The bracket that would have held the center speaker and does hold the radio bezel was originally held to the tab on the cab with a sheetmetal nut and screw. I used a file to remove the paint on the tab, top and bottom, and sanded the bracket down to shiny metal on both sides. And then I used a 10-32 screw and a nut with a captive lock washer to hold the bracket to the tab, and enough of the screw protruded on the bottom to get a ring-tongue connector on with another nut. But I painted the bare metal with aluminum-based anti-seize compound to prevent things from rusting. As for holding my breath, absolutely! But I held it more when I connected the battery back up. No smoke then, so I hit the button on the transmitter and CLUNK!

Yes, but in 2nd gear low range I have a 41:1 ratio. That's not bad in most places. I use the 71:1 a lot because I have it, but on steep smooth sections it's not a whole lot better. Where the really creepy-crawly gears are most important is going over a really rough trail like this: As you hit a rock the "hardness" of the hit is related to energy, and energy is proportional to the square of the speed. So if you can go half as fast you hit the rocks only a quarter as hard. That's where I REALLY like the low gearing. (That said, when I was in Ouray in 2018 I watched the Marlin Crawler guys walk up the wall on Poughkeepsie up a line no one else could make with something like a 500:1 crawl ratio!!! He actually got out and watched the truck go up on it's own.) I do get hung up on the radius arm mounts quite a bit. It didn't happen on this trip (I did drag one once), but I couldn't get up the "easy" line on Poughkeepsie because I high-centered. So that's the main goal. And then if I move the radius arm mounts up the transfer case will be vulnerable... Interesting. My 2nd gear low range overall ratio is 43:1. I understand the physics behind energy and the square of the speed, but had never really thought about what that means for 'wheeling. And I can see how that makes a very big difference. On the mounts, move them up and make some shields out of UHMW plastic. My neighbor and I just installed a set of UHMW shields on his RZR and that stuff is amazing. My nephew, that's going to do the AC on Big Blue, has a set on his RZR and said he goes over rocks that are like cheese graters and the stuff is hardly scratched.

LOL! I understand the "unusual rig" bit! Scott and I were sitting together last weekend at the overlanding meet when the instructor for the "Recovery Equipment" seminar when around the "room" and asked what we were 'wheeling. He seemed to take a step back when Scott, who was first, told him what he was driving, and then when I said essentially the same thing he was really surprised. Everyone else had some sort of Toyota or a Jeep, all of which were almost new. He seemed to think Scott's truck could shake his like rag doll. As for learning, you've had a whole bunch of experiences that have taught you what works and what doesn't. That's invaluable and rarely gets forgotten.