Gary Lewis

Well, there are too many questions in that last post for me to get my head around. Let me try to tackle the easy ones first. There is not Fuel Pump Supply Relay on our trucks. Just the Fuel Pump Cutoff Relay, and I guess the thinking was that in an accident it would cut off the pump when the inertia switch "opens on impact". But when you said "Color Code" I'm guessing you meant you'd searched the listing at Documentation/Electrical/Standard Wire & Color Codes. Right? That listing is generic for Ford vehicles of many years and models. But on our trucks O/LB is used in circuit 238 between the Tank Selector Relay and the Rear Fuel Tank Unit, as shown below on the far right.

Good morning, Cory. No, it is not a dumb question. I think it is a dumb advertisement. I got back to the same place in the RA catalog and the WVE listing is the correct one. The correct part number is D1FZ 13234-A, which WVE lists. I do not know what the Standard listings are all about.

Very nice!

Do the gussets just not line up right? Big Blue's gussets didn't but I was able to get the bolts in and tightened down and the gussets "adjusted to fit".

The good new is that there is no bad news. We made the 235 mile round trip to Kansas today w/o incident and the speed control worked a treat. So the Taurus module doesn't work in my truck. (And I can't tell you if the Bosch relay as a replacement for the horn relay is viable.) Plus, we got the A/C system working. My nephew had the new FS10 compressor, receiver/dryer, and orifice as well as new o-rings at the ready. He installed all of those components as well as the oil and pulled a vacuum on the system. His gauge pegged at 32" of vacuum, which is as good as he's ever seen, and it held there when he shut the valve. So he added the refrigerant and it worked perfectly. In fact, we got 40 degree air out of the right center vent, which he said is as cold as it should get. So on the way home we rode in comfort, with the speed control taking care of the throttle and the A/C, with heat added, making the cab comfy.

Good job, Cory! It looks great.

Yes, that looks to be the hot air tube for the choke. The best way to repair it is to get the Dorman repair kit. As for pictures, the forum doesn't rotate it. And that's the problem. You are taking pictures with your camera rotated, and the camera puts orientation info in the picture's file. Most software reads that data a re-orients the pic so it looks right. But the forum software doesn't read the data nor orient the pic. So, you basically have two choices. One is to orient your camera so down is down. On an iPhone I think that is with the volume buttons down, but I'm not sure of that nor do I know what it is for other phones. Second, you can use photo editing software to properly orient the pic. That's what I do. I take my pics in fairly high resolution and then edit them in Photoshop Express.

Welcome! Glad you joined. Where in CA? I ask because we have a map (Bullnose Forum/Member's Map in the menu) and we can add you if we had a city or zip. On the switch bezels, try this thread: Power Window/Door Switch Bezel Repair

Looking good! Things are going well and you are going to be pleased.

This is to announce that we are having an in-person truck show this year on September 4th! (Couldn't find a gif with BE THERE from the drag racing commercials, but if any of you can please give me a link.) More info to come, but please mark your calendars!

They are sitting in the bed of my project crew cab, and I can take some pictures tomorrow in the daylight. I would be happy to pass one along to you at the junkyard price that I paid plus the ride. I cannot speculate whether the blemishes are repairable, but if nothing else it would give you *something* to mount on until you located a better one at a sane price. They don’t look horrible, and would be better than a missing ring. That would be great, Jonathan. Thank you! If you don't want to ship it you could just hand it over when you two meet in September.

Now you have me wondering. I replaced some very soft hoses that would fall off. Couldn’t figure out why someone would put those on. Going to have to look into this! Hadn't thought of that, but hot ATF would tend to cause the hoses to swell and I can see them falling off due to that.

That's a good price. And the seat looks great!

Dave - If you've not gotten an answer I should be able to measure it later today.

Check out the page at Documentation/Fuel Systems/Fuel System Part #'s/Fuel Filler Pipes. That will give you the part number. You may ask why I can't just give you the number. When you look you'll see that we'd have to play 20 Questions given all of the parameters involved, so it is far better to let you figure it out as you know the answers to the 20 questions.

Bill - Thanks, I got the diagrams and will study them. As for testing the speed control today, I wimped out and will do it tomorrow on the way to KS. Drove 225 miles today in Blue (boy, that is SO much easier) and just got home. I'll report back tomorrow evening, I hope, as to how things worked out, meaning if the speed control and A/C works.

I'm not au fait with the C4, but if its modulator is like that of the C6 then it is controlled by engine vacuum. So if the modulator gets a hole in it the engine vacuum sucks ATF from the transmission into the intake manifold. It is usually just a little bit and it doesn't hurt anything but will create smoke. As for the A/C, mine is getting serviced tomorrow. I hope!

I don't know the answer to that question as I got confused just looking at the info. But you should go look at the snippet from the master parts catalog from here: Documentation/Driveline/Speedometer Gears, Cables, & Senders. Then the Speedo Cables tab, then either the W/O Speed Control or With Speed Control tab. But, I think the answer is that it doesn't matter what t-case you have. Still, you should look.

Good point, Jim. I forgot that.

Houston, we have a problem. Your choke doesn't have a connection on it for a wire, so doesn't have a provision for heating electrically. Given that, w/o the hot air tube it will never work correctly. If you give it enough choke to make it start well it'll take forever to come off and the engine will run very rich, if at all. I can see several options: Fix the hot air tube and the cold air supply. This would be best. Get an electric choke cap. I think the Holley ones fit the Motorcraft. This isn't as good as hot air, but it'll work. I have an electric choke on Big Blue. Convert to a manual choke. There are kits for that which replace the choke cap and have a cable, like a throttle cable for a lawnmower, that runs into the cab where you can control it.

Yes, you can change the filter w/o changing the oil. You'll lose about 1 quart, but it is cheaper than dumping new oil.

Should I just go ahead and order before 4pm? If I order before 4pm I can get it tomorrow. After 4pm and I won't get until next Wednesday. And for the fronts how do I measure the rear drums? LOL It sounds so backwards. Do I measure from the inside or outside? I really don't have much time to pull them before 4pm so I am hoping there is a easy way to tell. It seems based on stock 11" rear is more common. The master parts catalog, shown at Documentation/Driveline/Brakes, says that F100's with manual brakes have 11" drums and those with power brakes have 10" drums. But to verify that you should measure the inside of the drums. And you probably should verify that.

Thanks Gary. I hope things will settle in after it is running a while. Lots of smoke and burning smell right now too. But I guess after sitting for 12 years it has a few things to burn off. That brake fluid looks awful! And the brake hoses can swell shut inside. In fact, they can act as a check valve, allowing the pressure to set the brakes but not letting it drop off to release them. So it is wise to replace them. Good luck with the project. But I'll warn you that it is likely the rear wheel cylinders will be bad as well. In my experience when the fluid is that rusty then there are several problems, and the rears seem to be a prime candidate.

I think I could do a bumper in my oven, which is 3 x 3 x 6' high inside. But I've learned that getting long and bulky things into the oven w/o touching them can be a challenge. Luckily my oven has a track in the ceiling and little trolleys that run on the track. So I made a rack with a track that lines up with that one, and tabs that register it to the oven. I put the part on the rack and, if possible, tie the bottom to the rack so it won't swing. Roll the rack into my powder coating booth and coat the part, then roll it over to the oven, line things up, remove the bottom tie, and roll the part into the oven very carefully. But one thing I miss on my oven is a window in the door. I started coating with an old kitchen oven and followed the instructions to drop the temp back to 400 when the powder flows and then hold it there for 20 minutes. But with no window I just heat to 420 and then drop back to 400 for 20 minutes. Seems to work fine, but I wish I had a window. So, if you can incorporate one in your door...

Congrat's!!!! That's wonderful! On the oil leak, the new oil should help, as will actually running it like you did. But I'd try that before I hit it with seal swell. You can always add it later.