Gary Lewis

Sounds like a complex system, Bill. But you have it figured out and, in this case, repaired. But why had the resistor gotten hot enough to melt the plastic? That sounds dangerous.

Welcome! Glad you joined. Where's home? I ask because we have a map (Bullnose Forum/Member's Map in the menu) and we could add you with a city/state or zip.

Congrat's!!!

Made it about 150 miles on the GOAT today. On top of the 100 miles to get to the trail and then from it to Tahlequah, where we are spending the night, it was a long day. But Big Blue did very well. We only had three problems. First, one of the fog lights is out. Dunno if it is burned out or a wiring problem, but I'll worry about that at home. Second, the security system is flakey. It is giving warn-away beeps when there's nothing anywhere near the truck. So much so that I'm not using it until I can check it out at home. Third, we drove in rain, and sometimes heavy rain, for several hours, and there's a very small leak around the windshield. I found a few drops that came through, so I'll have to check that out - again at home. Otherwise, the truck did well. The rain was apparently very heavy east of Tenkiller Reservoir and the roads there had MANY places on them where the water had cut ruts crosswise in the road. So much so that many times I was down in 1st on the ZF5, which is S.L.O.W. And we drove through lots and lots of running water, both just running across the road and in low water bridges, like shown below. I had the hubs locked the whole way on the GOAT and went down into 4Lo once when we were going up a hill that was badly rutted and had a sheet of water coming down it. But that wasn't the case everywhere we went. Down this one road we crossed running water over the road in many places, and then turned the corner to find this. We backed out!

Now I'm behind. I just have one T-19 and one NP435.

Nice! That’s the real camper special with the longer wheelbase and special spare tire compartment in the bedside.

Thanks Gary. How do I go about the process of creating the how-to? Can I use full resolution pictures for better detail? I won't be able to start the how-to creation until I finish it. I still need to heat cure the valve body, change all the seals, reassemble and test. We need to put the how-to on the documentation part of the site, and we can use full resolution pictures. Write it up and designate where which pic goes and send it to me. I can piece it together. Or, write it up in a Word or pdf and put the pics exactly where you want them and I'll just embed it on a page. Your call, but we can do it.

I have one with a hook on it, but I thought it is for bumpers. Is there another for wheels?

Amen, brother! Particularly those with 460's.

Yep in Texas anything over 25 years old is safety only. The emission systems has to visually be there at the time of inspection but we are talking about a vehicle that is over 25 years old where your average inspector is under 25 years old which means they wouldnt know what should or shouldnt be under the hood. Many inspectors dont even care about the whole has to be there aspect. I know when I was a state inspector for nearly 7 years I didnt care about emission systems on what the state defines as a classic. For my truck, its an '82 that was sold in Texas new and the emission systems it does have has already for the most part been removed outside of EGR and the air pump. But the converter was cut off years ago. With my new engine build, EGR is going, the air pump is going, and the distributor is going to be sent out to be recurved to the new engine specs. Only emission systems I plan on keeping is the PCV system and the EVAP system if the sniper stealth can handle operating with a EVAP system that purges the canister off idle. I had an '82 351W w/an ECU under the seat just like that. And it was a 49-state truck, made in KC and sold in Kansas. You can follow those wires and strip the whole ECU harness out. It is standalone from the rest of the truck, and obviously you don't need it with the new setup. But make sure you have a DS-II ignition system as the trucks with an ECU didn't.

Helpers can be a huge benefit. Looks like you have a good one. On the u-joints, did you rap the bottom of the U with a hammer after installing the joints? That tends to spread the U and loosen of the joint. As for the D61 axle, I've not had one out so I don't have any suggestions.

Progress!!!! Well done! I sure don't envy you doing that on your back. Yuk! But it does look like you'll get it done for your trip. That is great!

Glad you found it. Yes, trailer wiring is frequently an issue.

Sounds like a bad connection in the circuit to the ICVR. Maybe at the gauge cluster?

Sam - I'm certainly going to document it. I hope to do something like Bob has done on his trips. As for the trailer and the OHV, turns out it won't be a problem. My brother has decided that it is just too much hassle. We'll just take Big Blue and see where we can go with him. We will start with the easier stuff and progress up to whatever we feel like we can do.

Got a few more things done, and I'm gonna say Big Blue is READY! First, the rivnut tool is now delayed until the 8th, so I put the mike holder on with sheet metal screws. Then I cast about for "the right way" to hold the mike cord, and decided that I could modify the sun visor clips to work. Just imagine these as black, which they will become after we get back, but here they are on the left with a pair of unmodified ones on the right: And here's how they fit: Last, about the time I got that done FedEx delivered the console.

Those look great!

The truck is Big Blue, my '85 F250 w/a 460. It is to get EFI this winter, so I won't be running the carb long, but I do want to test that Street Demon carb. I hope that treatment stops the rust!

You might want to read this thread: Instrument Lighting & Paint Testing. Ford used some blue filters on the bulbs and the filters are, by now, almost opaque. Bill of HiPo Parts says you can polish them and make them translucent again, but most people just take them out. Then, while you are in there as it is a pain to get there, I'd put in LEDs instead of the bulbs. HiPo's LED's that I used are far brighter and give a crisp white light. But you might like a different color.

Yes, 5 psi ought to be plenty. And 3 should work just fine as well for most things.

We could do that, Dane, and put them in the back of Big Blue. Plus, if he has locking lug nuts we could put them on and it wouldn't be easy to put other tires and wheels on.

I think our guidelines are simple and easily complied with. And the vast majority of people have done, with very few exceptions. As for selling, that isn't happening. Nor are we going to have advertising. No spam email and you get to decide what subscriptions you want to have. Anyway, I'll look forward to the thread on Pancho Loco and will certainly subscribe to it.

That sure looks GOOD! How 'bout a how-to on refurbishing the combination valve? You have the pics and the experience, and I know you can do it. As for the sway bar, that was an option and not many of the trucks have them.

That does look nice!

I would think being a couple of quarts low could mean the torque converter might be low, and that could make it slip more. Dunno, just thinking.