Gary Lewis

Yes, the wheel well design is horrible. I'm going to add some holes to be able to flush the dirt out, but you don't really have much room to drill w/o hitting the outer panel. As for the next project, that will be the air compressor and tank. As soon as I get the wheel wells cleaned and Filmed I'll start on that. The spare tire carrier is way off in the distance as EFI comes first. Overall I'm pleased with Big Blue. He ain't perfect, but he sure is stout. Next up, Ouray!

Ok guys, I guess I'll figure out what I ought to have for the jack to pick up the truck via a tire. Thanks. Now for a report on today's doings. First, the bed cover has been somewhat wonky, stopping at odd spots and making ugly noises. So today I did what the instructions said and pulled the cover on the canister that holds the rolled-up cover. Lo and behold there were bits of chewed up plastic in there. And on closer inspection they were from a destroyed end cap for the slats that make up the cover. The slats are aluminum extrusions that attach to each other to make the cover, and then there are end caps that fit into the slats that serve as the glides for going down the track and as gear teeth for the pinion in the canister to drive. But somehow one had obviously been destroyed. So I pulled the bed cover out of the tracks. WARNING! Do NOT do this! The cover is HEAVY and there are no hand holds. Man, that was a huge pain to get back in the track. But I did. However, I found two more damaged end caps. Given that I called Pace Edwards and talked to John, the tech. He said I probably have a dimension wrong on the rails and the cover got jammed and that let the pinion destroy the end cap. So he's sending me several end caps. That means the cover has to come back out of the tracks. But this time I'm going to make some kind of support for it to lay on at about the same height as the rail. Maybe a couple of 2 x 4's out the back of the truck will work. Also, I spent some time checking the truck over from the outing on the GOAT. Other than the hood latch bolts I've not found any other fasteners loose, although I do have more checking to do. However, I did find that my homemade rattle-stoppers had stretched or loosened due to all of the pounding, so I need to find the factory rubber isolators my nephew mentioned. Without something there to hold the springs together there's a tremendous clatter as you go down the road since the curved lower spring slams into the other spring on every bump. Anyone have an idea where to find them? Maybe Rock Auto? Also, I did check out the rear wheel wells, as Jim suggested. As you can see, below, the inner panel on the driver's side already is rusted away. The passenger's side isn't, but there's certainly rust showing at the lip. So I'll drill some holes on the passenger's side so the Fluid Film can get in there and do it up right. However, when you get at the right angle and look there is still a tremendous amount of dirt, gravel, and sand up in there. So the first thing to do is to spend more time with the hose. Then, when it dries out, I'll coat it with the black Fluid Film I ordered today 'cause the can I thought I'd use is empty.

Well, John, having done as Jim suggested and looked the rear wheel wells over closely there's lots more top soil that needs to come out. So I need to get the truck back out in the driveway and have another go at it with the hose. Then, when that's done and dry I'll apply the black Fluid Film I ordered today. (Turned out that the can I had was almost empty.) Anyway, I'm going to wrap up this GOAT thread with one more discovery & pic and then go back to the Transformation thread. I looked the truck over closely today, and while I haven't finished checking all of the bolts for tightness, it looks like everything is still tight. However, I did find this. One of my wires wasn't properly secured and its convolute rubbed on the front driveshaft for a large part of the trip since I had the hubs locked in. But it didn't really harm the convolute, so I tied it up out of the way - securely this time.

Bob - Glad you got the tube out, but it is a bummer about the stent. Hopefully it won't be too much discomfort nor limit your actions very much. I'll keep praying that you get through this quickly.

Looks good, Rusty. But on the balancing, did you ask for that to be done? They can do that w/o fully assembling the engine. And I agree on the paint. I wouldn't chance it.

Ok. C160 is said to be brown and have 4 pins. You can see on that schematic that it will have the red wire for circuit 361 that takes power to the injectors. And it has both the tan/orange and tan/red wires that ground 1/2 of the injectors. So I think the 4th pin in it is unused. I would find that and disconnect one side from the other - very carefully so as not to break the connectors. Then I'd use the DVM in resistance mode to see if the tan/orange wire is grounded. In other words, put one lead of the DVM into the connector and touch the pin of the tan/orange wire, and put the other lead on a good ground - like the negative terminal of the battery. You should not see any resistance, but if you do you have to find out where it is coming from. Then I'd do the same on the other side of the connector, the side that goes to the EEC. But in this case you might see some very small resistance, depending on the scale you are on, as the EEC will show some. However, what I think you'll see is a very solid ground that will be down around 1 ohm or less. That means the wire is shorted to ground somewhere.

But it worked for you?

You are now on the map. The cylinders number 1 - 4 front/rear on the passenger's side and 5 - 8 front/rear on the driver's side. So the rear-most on the driver's side is #8 and the front-most on that side is #5. And the rear-most on the left hand/passenger's side would be #4. As previously said, one bank is 1, 4, 5, & 8. And you said that 4, 5, and 8 fire continuously. I'd bet that #1 does as well but you may not have noticed. So the issue has to do with the Tan/Orange wire that goes from all four of those injectors to the EEC. In the schematic below I've circled C160. If you can find it and disconnect it you can test to see where the ground is. Oh wait, do you have a digital volt meter?

Yeah, that happens. Our joining process is broken and we are trying to fix it. Anyway, welcome! Where is home? I ask because we have a map (Bullnose Forum/Member's Map in the menu) and we could add you if we had a zip or city/state. On the injectors, I've included the pertinent schematics from the 1986 Electrical & Vacuum Troubleshooting Manual (EVTM) below. But you can find it at Documenation/Electrical/EVTM's/1986 EVTM. On the 2nd page you can see that injectors 1, 4, 5, & 8 are tied together and 2, 3, 6, & 7 are tied together on their bottom sides, the side that goes to the EEC. Your system is called "bank fire" as four injectors go at the same time. So if you have injectors firing when the key is just turned on it is important to know which ones as it is likely you have all four in one bank firing. Another thing to note is that the EEC grounds the injectors to fire them. In other words, when you turn the key on all of the injectors are given power via the EEC power relay. So if there is a short to ground in the wire going to the EEC from the injectors the injectors will fire. So if you work out which injectors are firing then you know which wire to check - Tan/Orange or Tan/Red.

Welcome to the Bullnose Forum! You may have missed the email that you were sent asking you to go to the New Members Start Here folder, read the guidelines, and then start an introductory thread there. Many people miss that message, but the intent is to give you ample opportunity to read the guidelines. That's because we hold everyone to them. So, before we launch into problem solving can you assure me you read them?

Yeah, that might take a bit different gear.

Yes, thanks Dave.

Didn't someone put an F450 master on an F250 w/o changing the calipers or rear brakes?

Yes, there are differences at the caliper, but I assumed BillyRay is going to keep the existing calipers and just add boost. However, if he is wanting to change them then that's a whole different kettle of fish.

Good to know.

Ok, try the "Comparative" calculator now. Somehow the ability to type in the cells had been turned off.

No, I didn't weld it. But I did use the orange Loctite. On the arches, when I am sure they are dry I'll hit them with some oil. Maybe Fluidfilm?

On my tailgate there are Phillips headed screws that go into studs on the trim panel. You'll find the screws on the front of the tailgate. On the speedo, I got a lot of the bouncing out of mine by lubing the cable with synthetic wheel bearing grease. I had used Teflon and graphite spray lube initially on the new cable, but the speedo had a lot of bounce to it. However, the grease did help. As for the calculator, I don't know why you can't change the tire size like you should be able to do. But I'm working on it. And you are right, larger tires require a smaller driven gear.

Dane - Yes, the panels are expensive, so I'm bummed that I messed this one up. But I hope my body/paint guy can smooth it out some. He's told me before that he is pretty going doing that, so I'll check with him at some point. And yes, uneventful trips are the goal. Ours was pretty much that way, with a few small exceptions. Jim - Let's put it this way, those bolts won't come loose again. And I did spend a lot of time flushing the wheel arches. Both with the high pressure at the car wash and then with the hose at home. And I put the hose in ahead of the liners several times, so I hope I got it out. But I already have rust there and it is coming through the body putty someone put there. So when I get it on the lift, maybe tomorrow, I'm going to take the liners loose and see what's behind them. And I might put some holes in them to make it easier to clean them next time.

I don't think we have anything about converting to power brakes. The vast majority of the trucks came with power brakes, so it is rare anyone needs to convert. But according to our page on brakes (Documentation/Driveline/Brakes) it looks like your master cylinder is probably E0TZ 2140-C and you need to go to D7TZ 2140-C. And the booster will be E0TZ 2005-A. As for the lines, I don't know. But I'd bet that you won't have to change them. Surely the fitting sizes are the same and there's usually plenty of extra line in the coil so you can move the master cylinder forward.

Eddie looks really good! Glad he's running so well.

To wrap this up, I filled the truck up and washed it today. The fill up took 23.2 gallons and we'd gone 236.2 miles for an average of 10.2 MPG. Of the 236 miles, 111 were on the highway doing from 55 to 65, so only 125 were on the trail. So assuming we got 11.5 MPG on the highway then we got 9.2 MPG on the trail portion of Tuesday. As for the wash jobs, plural, I spent quite a bit of money at the local car wash, mostly hitting it with hot water & soap at high pressure. Mud oozed from every pore. From behind all of the trim. From the wheel wells. From the bumper - especially the front but even from behind the rubber trim strip on the back. EVERYWHERE! Once I thought I was done there I brought it home and spent a couple of hours going over it in the driveway. And still got a ton of mud out. But, finally it came fairly clean. Here's sort of a before and after: However, I did find one ding we didn't have when we started. We backed into something that hit the trim panel on the tailgate. Oh well, that's why you don't "restore" a truck before taking it offroading. Then, when I thought I was all done, I tried to close the hood and it wouldn't stay latched. As it turns out, the two bolts holding the hood latch on were both loose and the latch had slid down way out of adjustment. So there are the first two of what will probably be many loose bolts I'll find as I check the truck out.

It is also longer and could not get them to I stall. I don't remember just why now but I could not use them. I also have pictures of the differences on my web site. Dave. ---- Maybe we need to document this, once and for all. Dave, can you get me the pics and point me to the measurements?

I don't think you are doing anything wrong If the tabs are in place wouldn't the pan force the gasket to conform to the engine?