Gary Lewis

Yes, it must have been either 3 or 4 years. What a wonderful event! People from New Zealand, Australia, Alabama, Colorado, and even California! (And lots of other places in between.) So, Ken, how 'bout telling us what you've done in another thread?

I was being facetious. Mean even. If you turn the wheels lock/lock with the engine off you’ll have a mess as the C-II pump will squirt ATF out of the vent hole in the cap. The Saginaw pump doesn’t do it. Nor does it whine.

I think the bed bolt change happened in '85, but I'm not sure. We have that documented somewhere. On the vents, here's how I handled the tank vents. I like the filter as it keeps crawly things out.

No. It's back to the normal CII whine. I’ve heard that turning the steering wheel lock to lock several times with the engine off really helps the C-II pumps. Have you tried that?

And it is quiet now, right?

You've done your homework.

The adapters are what the exhaust system is connected to. Your exhaust shop will use them. As for how to do it, I told the exhaust shop what I wanted - dual exhaust with a crossover between the two. And dual mufflers. The shop took it from there as they do that all the time. So that's my suggestion - let the shop design it for you.

Thank you, Heinz. And I agree, let's get rid of it!

Good luck to you, Clay! I hope you get what you are asking. Have you seen Hagerty's evaluation on it? Would you like to?

I've run a C6 w/o a kickdown linkage. Worked fine and I could kick it down a gear with the shift linkage if needed. But it wouldn't kick down with the throttle.

That's funny! Yes, it was about 12 - 15 years ago, and they still had a landline. And $3/gallon is cheap here as well. Going to be expensive. But this is the same guy that said we'd get 9 MPG pulling Big Blue back from Florida. So he just kept speeding up until we got 9, which was at 75 MPH. Doubt we'll do that going or coming. However, there's a resonance in the exhaust at 65, so we may run closer to 70 where it is quieter. At least through KS and the foothills of CO. But once we leave Pueblo we'll probably be running slower.

Worked for me, but I'm a member of that group. Not sure it will for others. Anyway, what a shame! Yes, I recognize the wheels.

Man, gas is going to kill you on this trip! Hope you've been putting some extra monies in the cookie jar. I filled up my back tank, and maybe a gallon in the front tank, last week when I went to Borken Arrow and it was $60. Yup, 'tis going to be 'spensive. Each way is 850 miles, so 1700 miles and, therefore ~170 gallons. Then there are the trail days. And the hotel rooms. And meals. BUT IT IS GONNA BE FUN!!!!! Funny story, years ago my bro and his two boys were headed to AZ pulling their enclosed trailer with RZR's inside. They were going directly into a head wind and had the choice of running that Bowtie on the floor or notched down two gears. Either way the MPG was horrible. In the middle of the night his wife got a call from their credit card company. Someone had stolen their card and was stopping every 100 miles and buying out the service stations. She just .

Yep, I like that CRC cleaner. Use that and clean the ground and you might have them working.

Glad to see that you've had the vaccine, Heinz. My wife and I've actually had our third shots, the booster. She's immuno-compromised and so qualifies for a booster. And since I live with her, I qualify as well.

Yep! I think we are at about 21ish for a count, but I don't have Branden and his wife, Stephanie, in that count as he hasn't responded to my texts or calls.

I hope that works perfectly! Good luck. And here’s hoping you stay safe as well. Things are getting worse here in Oklahoma due to the virus.

Thanks, Scott. My nephew, Kirk, and I were texting about this last night. His father/my brother is covered by both Kirk's license as well as mine. Just a shame Dad isn't still alive - for many reasons. But we could have had him take out a license and it would have covered all of us. But, as they "only" cost $70 and last for 10 years I guess it is no big deal. Anyway, Kirk has a list of supposedly the GMRS channels many use for various things. He, and my brother for that matter, are camping at the moment but he'll send me the list later today. I'm curious what channels to monitor, although my radio does have the ability to scan all channels so I could listen for activity. Having said that, I've read that Channel 16 is the channel for offroading. Scientific proof that it is the best: 4x4=16.

You are forgiven. Just a very few things left to do to BB before the show & then going to Ouray. Change oil & filter, rotate tires, check tire pressures, and give him a bath. Oh, and fill him up! Which reminds me, I need to peruse the map and guesstimate where we’ll need to fill up on the way out.

John - It is all your fault. You asked why the light was flashing. I knew what had caused it but couldn't figure out how to fix it. And I didn't want to go to Colorado with that thing blinking all the time. So I decided I'd find out. Pulled out the installation manual. Nada. Pulled out the owner's manual. Nada. Google wasn't my friend as I couldn't find anything on it. Tested and got even further confused as the switches didn't always work. Finally I called. Easy, simple answers to those questions. But none to "Why isn't that in the manual?"

Okay, this one works .... It just wasn't readily apparent and it takes some time to learn the system. On this web site (annotated screen shot below) the "reply to the thread, not necessarily the last post" is under the last post (at the left side), which makes some sense because it is outside the last post. To reply to a particular post, there is a reply button inside that particular post and when doing that, one gets a copy of that post and can deselect part of the post that isn't needed, same as on the Bullnose site, when editing a post. One other thing I like (on a roll here) is the post number. As a thread runs for several pages, 2, 3, 4, etc. the post numbers continue, I believe typically about 10 posts per page. For a really long thread with a lot of pages, it makes it somewhat easy to find a post. Actually, it would be even easier if the page number was included with the post number, but the post number can be handy for most threads with not many pages. Sample page about what I mentioned above: [Edit: Almost forgot, the place where I had some difficulty was on "Fuel Line Fitting: Hairpin or Duck Bill Clip? (’85 F-150 EFI 5l dual tanks)", post dated August 24, edit #2 on August 27. Wound up just editing the old post on the 24th.] Every web site is different and it just takes time to learn the system. Yep, the software that runs FTE, and many other forums, does have the post # on it. Several of us on here spent a lot of time using that software and wish we had the post #. We don't, but we do have the time and date of the post, so that will let you find the post. Anyway, yes it takes time to learn a new system. This one certainly isn't perfect, but it does work pretty well once you get used to it. But I beg to differ - a thread doesn't "run for several pages". In my case they "run for hundreds of pages". (Big Blue's Transformation is currently at 285 pages and still going.)

Here we go again: Any number on a part is not a part number. It is either an Engineering or ID #, depending on what Ford publication you are looking at. Why is that important? Because usually you cannot look an ID # up in the Master Parts Catalog. But in some cases you can, and shrouds happens to be one of them as the people that put the MPC together added the ID #'s in the Description column. This is rare, but very helpful. Below is part of the info from our page at Documentation/Cooling Systems/Shroud Part #'s and you can see the E2TA-RA, which is shorthand as the "8146 is understood". And that item is part number E2TZ 8146-C and fits an 82/84 with either Super Cooling or A/C. But there was a previous version of it, with ID # E0TA-AA that also fits. So if you were to go to a salvage you'd want to be looking for either of those #'s.

Thanks, Dane. It is beefy. RuffStuff says "This spindle is rated at 1.25k lbs in a stationary position (keep leverage in mind and the increased force that a long swing out can put on the spindle)." And then they go on to explain that you have to provide support at the far end of the swing arm when you are driving or you'll overload the bearings. I have that designed in, although a little tweaking will be needed before execution. But, I think it might hold the tire and wheel.

Reno - I was wrong 'cause I used the wrong terminology. But the bit about strength still stands. You might want to read that page in the link.