Gary Lewis

There are differences. You might want to read this thread to see the differences: bullnose/bricknose doors

Jonathan - Thanks for the feedback. And you are right - you don't know how hard it was for me. But, while it did take most of two days, it was rewarding as I think it is dramatically better. And yes, not everyone knew to click on "Air Cleaners". We have a mix of un-clickable pages and pages that have content, and that is a bad thing as people don't know to click or not. And clickable ones that have sub-pages don't work for Jim, and probably others. On the tabs, are you viewing in landscape or portrait mode? On my iPhone X the portrait view just shows 2 tabs and part of the 3rd, landscape shows all 5 tabs. And I'm careful to keep it to only 5 tabs - which is why we have a tab named "Other" as there are 3 different topics in there.

That's great. The 300 is far, far better than the V6.

You certainly would David! Perhaps it’s your next hobby vehicle?! 😇 Yes! That would be wonderful! And it has his preferred engine!

Thanks, Bill. You are right, the illustrations don't show the rear trap door. I'll see if I can find something about that. But do you know of anything Ford published about it?

Thanks! Thanks.

Looks like a worthy cause. It will be interesting to see how the shift linkage is. Some of the 3-on-the-tree linkages have been worn enough they won't work properly. Hopefully you won't have that problem. Or, if you do, perhaps you can find a way to rebuild it? But, you also said "6". Is it the venerable 4.9L in-line six or the little 3.8L V6?

It looks great, and I think you are right - it will LAST! And, it won't leak. Well done!

That sounds like a deal - parts and instructions as well. And the tools seem reasonable.

It is beautiful! I've messaged the seller. We'll see what they say.

"Original leather"? I didn't know leather was an option on these. As for seating, have you looked at our page on Documentation/Interior/Seat Interchangeability? It might help you figure out what it would take to put buckets and a console, or a 40/20/40 seat, in your truck. But I like the idea of a 40/20/40 seat. Some have a drop-down arm rest, and the "40" bit is closer to a bucket than a bench.

Years ago when I started this website I didn't know what I was doing, and I didn't have the tools I have now, like tabs in Weebly or the pdf scanner. So the way I captured information was not well thought out and, frankly, poor. And as I've played with some areas of the website I've been very disappointed with the way I did them. For instance, "air cleaners". The old way has the information spread out across 8 different pages, and to add the Ford documentation I found yesterday I would have had to add another 1 or 2. And that made everything painful as to go from one of the pages to another you had to go back to the menu, scroll down to Fuel Systems, scroll to Air Cleaners, and then pick the page you wanted. Given that I've spent two days completely revising the air cleaner area in order to get it on 1 page. And I'd like your feedback on how well you like it. Is it enough better that I should spend time cleaning up other areas? Here's the test. Please go to Documentation/Fuel Systems/Air Cleaners. Yes, click on Air Cleaners. And check out that page. Then go to Documentation/Fuel Systems/Air Cleaners/Air Cleaner Check Valves and scan that page. Then Documentation/Fuel Systems/Air Cleaners/Air Cleaner Illustrations. And right on down the menu. And then go to Air Cleaners in the top menu (yes, it'll get dropped down in the menu later) and see if you like the way I've crammed everything on one page. Is it logical? Is it easy to navigate? What can be better? Oh, and there are a few things to notice. First, there's the Testing tab that has two documents I found yesterday in the 1980 shop manual. They aren't in the "old" air cleaner stuff and were the impetus for the complete revision as I'd have to have had a page for them in the old style. Also, the Mityvac document that was on the original Air Cleaners page in poor jpg scans is now a pdf on the Operation tab. Take a look at how hard the original version is to read, and then scroll to the bottom of the new version's page, click the 100%, and make it 200%. Anyway, how much better is it? I'm not looking for kudos, but just need to know if it is enough better to do on other areas of the website.

I don't know what truck that is for. However, all of the hits I find in the MPC of "9810177" are of Bronco II's. But there are no E3TZ 9810177's that I can find. However, the 1984 B II shows to have originally used E5TZ 9810177 which got replaced with E8TZ 9810177. But an '84 shouldn't have come from the factory with an E5TZ anything, so my guess is that it came with the E3TZ 9810177 and that got replaced by the E5 which got replaced by the E8. Bottom Line: I think it is for an '84 B-II.

Shown in the parts lists for various calibration codes. Shows as: E4TZ 12A182-B Switch assy, (distributor modulator valve)— 1985 *SW-1933 #E4TE 12A182-B1A.B2A Vehicle line: F Series, Econoline & U150 One example is: CALIBRATION PARTS LIST NO. 418 (Calibration No. 4-64Z-R10J-8 Cyl. 351 C.I.D. (5.8L) 1984/ E150 - - C6 w/Hi—altitude carb. 1984/ E250(89) - - C6 w/Hi-altitude carb. 1984/ F150/250 — C6 w/Hi-altitude carb. 1984/ U150 — C6 w/Hi-altitude carb

Correct for all of our trucks. And not a bad price.

Nice! Hard to find one that clean.

That's great! Thanks. The page at Documentation/Electrical/ICVR now says:

Shaun - See what you think of what I did on Documentation/Electrical/Lighting/Fog Or Driving Lights and then the Pictures tab. I didn't capture the pics about damage to the bezel as I didn't think we really cared about that. But if you think we want them then just let me know.

I think you are seeing what Bill was talking about. The internal passages are limited so it is difficult to get too much gas. But you may have had too much if it responds better to the throttle. Good luck!

We have the factory shop manual section for the 2150 on the page at Documentation/Fuel Systems/Carburetors, Chokes, & EFI/Motorcraft 2150. However, in looking at that document for information on adjusting the accelerator pump I found this: "Adjustment procedures and service instructions for this carburetor are contained in the Engine/Emissions Diagnosis Manual." But looking there I don't see anything about the accelerator pump. So I don't know what to tell you about that. Perhaps Bill will? As for the idle mix, yes you can screw the adjustment screws in and that will lean the mix. Perhaps that will be enough?

Can't wait!!

Gary's option looks good. But if you're like me and tend to shy away from anything with "smart" in the name, a simple dumb option that works well is to use a relay something like this with an off-on-off double throw switch. Hook the center terminal of the switch to the relay, hook one of the side terminals of the switch to the aux battery and hook the other side terminal to the main battery through an oil pressure switch. Flip the switch to one side it will link the batteries together so you can jump it from the aux battery. Put it in the middle and the batteries are separated. Put it on the other side (where I leave it all the time) and the batteries are separated whenever the engine isn't making oil pressure (i.e. when it's not running) but they are in parallel whenever there is oil pressure. You can make it a little more user-friendly by using a DPDT switch and using the other poles to switch a pair of indicator lights, one (possibly red) when it's in the "jump" position and one when it's in the main position with the engine running. I didn't build my system, I bought it from Wrangler NW Power Products. But their web site doesn't give a lot of confidence that they are still in business, and their latest catalog (from 2011) only has the relay/switch/indicator light included with one of their dual battery tray kits. Bob - I like that system. But I think it can be simplified slightly. The spec's on that relay say it'll pull in with 6 volts on the coil. The field wire on our alternators puts out about 7 volts, although it is pulsing rather than steady state direct current. But I think you could use that to pull the relay in and not have the oil pressure switch.

The next installment. First, the "vacuum" section has been moved out from the Underhood area, and it is now at Documentation/Vacuum Systems, with these changes: Vacuum System Acronyms: We've had the acronyms on a page, but they were really hard to find so now they have their own page Vacuum System Requirements: Ditto the acronyms. We've had these requirements but they weren't easily found so now they have their own page. Vacuum System Testing: This is a new page and it has two entries so far - sections from the Engine Diagnosis & Service section on Vacuum Delay Valve and the Ported Vacuum Switch. I'll add sections as and when I find them. The Engine Diagnosis & Service section has information on testing the ignition system, so I extracted it and placed it on a tab at Documentation/Electrical/Ignition. And some of it is very interesting. For instance it has you test the module by placing a heat lamp 1 - 2" from it and getting it up close to, but not quite to, boiling. And it says "An engine that idles smoothly but becomes rough when accelerated (1000-2000 rpm) can be caused by crossed orange and purple primary ignition wires in the engine harness between the distributor and the module." And we already had a page for EGR at Documentation/Engines/EGR Valves/EGR System Description & Testing. So I extracted the EGR section from the Engine Diagnosis & Testing section and added it to a tab on that page.

Welcome. Hope it helps.