Gary Lewis

Borg Warner 1356, same as you were installing in that thread. I didn't beat it up too much, and it's under the seat, so no one is ever going to know. Besides, "beat up" matches most of the body panels! One difference I saw between my cab floor and the one in the pics from your thread is, for whatever reason, the raised area of the floor fell mostly behind the cut-off tab on the TC on my truck. What clearance problems there were going to be were right on the edge of where the floor came down and turned back to horizontal towards the back. In your pictures it looked like that cut-off-tab was back a little further than it turned out to be on mine. In other words, more into the area after the floor turned horizontal. Speaking of mounts, I had to order a new one this morning, as the cheapo one I got from Rock Auto or eBay or wherever the heck I got it from, broke. The entire thing was coated with a black paint-like substance, which made spinning the lower nut on somewhat difficult. Not cross-threaded/wrong thread difficult, but a little difficult. Anyway, the mild amount of force required to overcome it, broke the stud out of the tack weld that held it in place. Piece of junk. Yeah I could weld it more fully, and pour water over it before the weld heat starts melting rubber, but why? If it's that poorly constructed in the first place, it won't last long anyway. I need to remember to buy higher quality parts when I go shopping. Interesting. I wonder if the different engine moves things fore/aft a bit. But both cabs are regular 81's.

Yep!

Interesting. It looks like the F350 4x4's or DRW's didn't come with hub caps. The snippet from the Master Parts Catalog, below, doesn't even give a part number. (1130 is the base part number for hub caps for any Ford vehicle anywhere in the world.) And the 1984 Truck Facts Book, which Ford supplied to the dealers, says in the Standard Trim Features section: Hub Caps - Bright. Not available with F250 4x4 SuperCab, F350 4x4, F350 Dual Rear Wheel Models or F250 4x4 models with heavy-duty front suspension." As for your measurement, Big Blue's D60 hubs measure about 4 1/4" in diameter. So you apparently have the "heavy duty front suspension".

We actually have a page on this: Documentation/Electrical/Voltage Drop Testing. And it finds all sorts of problems, like you said, including cables that look good on the outside but have bad connections between the wire and the terminal. But if the switch and/or wire going to it is bad that may be the problem.

What transfer case do you have? I didn't think about yours being that different, but it is. Sorry you beat up your floor. But it is good to have that ~1" of clearance since the mounts do allow for movement. Anyway, you got it rolling. Well done!

You can’t really ohm out grounds with a standard DVM. Or, I should say you can but won’t get good results. That’s because a standard DVM uses a really small current to test, and even a bad ground can sometimes pass small currents. The best way is to check for a voltage drop. Put your DVM in voltage mode and test from the negative terminal of the load to the battery’s negative terminal with the light turned on. There should be very little voltage drop.

That does sound like it is solid. Having designed a rear bumper/spare tire mount that ties into the frame in the same area, I'd say yours is even stronger than mine - and it is strong.

Well, actually, I forgot that the T-19 has a removable bell housing. So you may well be able to bolt a T-19 to a small-block bell housing. Of course, that assumes that the input shaft is the same, and I don't have a clue about that. (I do know that the ZF5's input shaft is different between the small block and 460 or diesel.) So, keep the faith! I think it might just work. As for the ZF5 in Dad's truck, that work paid off for many people as Tim Meyer now makes the adapters commercially from my drawings. So a whole bunch of M-Block owners can enjoy the low first gear and over-drive top gear of the ZF5. A forged 300 crank? That's cool! Perhaps you can put it to good use. Build up an awesome six and show us how it is done.

Sounds like it is SOLID, which is the way I like to build things. So it bolts to the frame and the clevis mounts pretty directly there?

I actually can't delete user ID's. So just pick the one you want to use and go for it. As for transmissions, I don't believe you'll find a T-19 for the small-block pattern. I think it only came on 460's and the diesels. Instead, the T-18 and NP-435 were used for the smaller engines. But ZF5's did come in all three bolt patterns - small-block, 460, and diesel. However, like the T-19, there were two gear sets - wide ratio for the gassers and narrow for the diesel. And the small-block pattern had an internal slave cylinder inside the bell housing, but the 460 and diesel had an external slave. In other words, you have to figure out which engine you want, or at least which bolt pattern, so you can get the tranny for it. And keep me in mind on the CT90K1.

Thanks for the update. Hopefully y'all can make some progress, soon. As for the controller, you should consider selling them if it works well. Baumann makes big bucks on them.

Maybe you can help with the website and forum some day. Surely there are lots of things we could do better if we just had a Java guru. Anyway, hope things slow down for you, at least over Christmas.

Have you looked at Rock Auto? Looking at that seems to say the BENDIX PDR0550 you were looking at might be good. But RA put a heart by the ACDELCO 18B141 Gold / Professional - assuming you have 5.31 IN Wide Drums.

Got the rest of the brackets and mounts beefed up today. Plan to media blast them tomorrow and then powder coat them. But since some have POR-15 on them, and that stuff doesn't come off easily, blasting may take all day.

Don’t the drums have their size stamped on the end?

Gary, thanks for the heads up. I'll trim that little block off the TC before doing anything else, and see where everything falls. With this particular truck, I'm not at all opposed to the BFH approach, so we'll see if I can attack it that way. I really need to get the truck rollable again today. My shop is full of equipment and my other project car, and so I can only get the truck halfway in. So I can't lock it up. I live in a pretty good neighborhood, crime-wise, but it still makes me nervous. Yes, that looks like the crossmember I pulled out of the '95 donor truck. I'll have to go look at it and figure out which way round it is installed. It looks like from your photo that the 2-piece end is drivers and the part that goes on the outside of the chassis is passenger. As always, thanks for the input! Good luck getting it rollable. I'd be nervous too! And yes, the part of the crossmember that goes outside is on the right/passenger's side.

Nice! But the price is yikes! You can get a new one for about that, which seems to be a much better deal when a used one is highly likely to crack soon.

If your choke is set up correctly, meaning that it has the hot air to it and maybe the electric wire to it then the engine should stay running on the first start. But there are several "ifs" in all of that. So show us some pics of your carb and any connections to it? And, assuming it is a 2150 it'll have several critical adjustments. One is the set point on the heat stove, the black round thing. You probably need to dial in at least one if not two more "notches" on it. That setting determines how much choke you have on initial startup. And it sounds like you don't have enough choke or it would start easier w/o the three pumps. Another is the vacuum pull off, which determines how much choke you have when the engine starts. And it sounds like you have too much pull off or the engine wouldn't die after startup.

Yes! I could not have done what I've done or am doing w/o the lift. I tried doing things like you did and gave up. I was just way too tricky and difficult. Now, with the lift and a tranny jack it is not too bad. Now for what I fear is going to be the next "challenge". The t-case is going to hit the floor of the truck. I ran into that on Dad's truck w/the E4OD. You can read about it starting here, but the bottom line is that I had to cut a piece out of a donor cab and patch the floor in Dad's cab. And there's some info on the E4OD tranny crossmember here. You do have that crossmember, right?

84/89 E100/350 84/89 F150/350, U150 - - 4.9,5.0,5.8L PN = E4TZ 7515—C ID# = E4TA 7515-BA or DA

Matthew! How are you? Apparently busy!

I'm surprised. With the mesh replacing the tread plate, and the tread plate gone in the middle I expected it would still be lighter with the "bull bar" and tow points. What the bull bar made out of

Wow! How much weight did that save?

And I prefer anything but a Holley. I've had way too many power valve, accelerator pump, and bowl gasket problems. So I like the set and forget approach that the Carterbrocks give for anything but racing. However, if I was racing I'd probably go with a Holley. On carb sizing, the Holley 4180-C that Ford used on the 302HO, 351HO, and 460 is rated at just 600 CFM. And while I'm running a 750 Eddy on Big Blue at the moment, I did prove that he'd run just fine with a 600 CFM Eddy. In fact, the only difference I could tell is when he was winding up, and there the 750 had a bit more.

There is no such thing as too big or too much light. And outside storage works nicely under a roof, like a carport. And one thing I wish I'd done is to put a back door in so I could get a truck out when another one is on the lift.