Gary Lewis

Well, this version of the forum is from July - prior to you joining. So it doesn't know about you! Register and I'll approve your membership and then you can test. I'd use the same credentials as you have here.

Interesting observations. Some I agree with, others I know nothing about. But I emphatically agree about the looks.

Tease! What did you find???

As it turns out, an overnight soak in lacquer thinner did absolutely nothing to the POR-15. The only thing that helped was the heat, which seems to have made it hard enough to take off with a flap wheel. Otherwise it just gummed things up. Anyway, today I got the pieces powder coated, as shown below. But I did have an interesting experience. When washing the parts with brake cleaner I apparently had quite a bit of it in one of the tubes and when I hit it with the heat gun there was a whoosh and flame shot out of the tube. However, it caused no damage and I did get the parts washed and coated. And I'm pleasantly surprised that I was able to get powder all down the inside, as well as the outside, of the tubes. So things are well protected. And I got a bit of it installed. But it was 77 degrees here today and since the powder coating left an eye-stinging haze in the shop I opened the doors. And then the mosquitos came in. So after sweating and swatting a bit I quit. This is December!

Did you get a windshield that let's you see the VIN? The later trucks, which take the same windshield, have the VIN moved a bit, and people like to stock only the later glass. But then you can't read the VIN. I suspect that is technically illegal for them to do, but it sure causes problems later if/when you sell the truck. Especially if you sell it out of state.

EEEEEEEEgads! $1820 for a tailgate panel?!?! But it sure is pretty.

Pretty! But for $455 inc shipping I think I'll just paint some for Big Blue - some day.

Well, $370 for 4 of them is $92.50/each. And they have shelf wear. I have 3 NOS red ones for $80/each. As a reminder, the black ones were for the "styled" wheels and the red ones for the aluminum wheels.

Pretty! But "Starting bid: $550" is a bit off-putting.

If you use it to ground the tach signal...

I just clicked on the New Bullnose Test Forum link in your email, and my login info and pwd did not work. I use two non-Goolag Chrome browsers. One is called Dissenter and the other is Brave. I keep Firefox around here somewhere but have not had to use it for many months now, maybe a year. My generic Chrome browsers work even for banking and financial sites now. I'll try from Firefox ... stand by please ... operators are sitting by ... don't touch that dial ... brought to you by Mutual of Omaha ... and now our muscular assistant Steve is going to update Firefox then wrestle this huge alligator for us ... whoops, bye Steve ... somebody call a funeral home ... Yes it works from Firefox only. I posted a message. Thanks, a bunch! You are running on Windows 10? And, I see your posts. Folks, I really need your help trying different things. For instance, Dane's iPad and Safari works, but it doesn't work on my wife's iPad with either Safari or Chrome. So I need to know what works and what doesn't so I can find the common denominators.

In the US and Canada that would be a Marti report. Ford sold the documents to Marti as they were apparently tired of providing the info to the owners, and now Marti supplies the information like in your letter. As for "how bad on fuel could it be", I think the absolute best you can hope for is 14 MPG, and that will be under ideal conditions. Bill/85lebaront2 has a crewcab DRW truck with a tired 460, E4OD, and factory EFI with MAF & SEFI and he can get close to 14. And Big Blue with its new EFI-headed 460, ZF5, headers, and an Edelbrock carb can get 12 under ideal conditions. But I'm hoping for 13+ when I go to EFI. So my guess of 14 is because you have a lighter truck than either of us. But I believe you'll need multi-port FI to get you there, not throttle body.

First, before I forget it, any number you find on a part is not a part number. In the mid-60's Ford had a Better Idea and started placing ID #'s on the parts. But the Master Parts Catalog shows part numbers, so they also published a cross reference book. I have the cross ref's so can convert the #'s you find to PN's - in many cases. But some of the plastic parts have multiple #'s on them, some of which are seemingly on all the plastic parts regardless of year or color, so the numbers don't always get us back to the exact part. And several different ID #'s resolve to the same PN in many cases. As for the documentation, there are multiple ways of doing it. You can give me a document in pdf or Google/Word format and I can embed it. I've done that many, many times on the site, and you can see an example on the page at Documenation/Reference/Standard & Utility Parts Catalog. That's a 320 page document so will take a bit to load, but you will see that it looks like it is on the site. However, it really is just a document on my OneDrive. So if I update it the next time someone loads it the updates will show. You could send me a document and I can load it up that way, and if you then have updates you can send those to me in a new file and I'll replace the file with the new one. Done. Or, I can take a document apart and put the individual text sections and pictures directly on the page. An example of that is the page at Documentation/Electrical/Voltage Drop Testing. It was written by member KR98664, as shown, and I created the web page. That was more work as we had to go back and forth on how to do it, with him knowing what he wanted and me knowing what I could do. But in the end we got something that looks good and uses all the space on the page - which the embedded document doesn't initially since it always comes up at 100%, although you can increase the zoom. So, it is your call. Whatever you are familiar with.

You are right, that IS cool!

I think a video or at least a how-to with lots of pics would be very helpful, and we can put it on the site. Speaking of lots of pics, have you found our page at Documentation/Underhood/Toolbox? I have one of the boxes so could get any measurements you might need.

We have the page, shown below, at Documentation/HVAC/HVAC Systems and I could put a tab where the blue scribble is named something like "Aftermarket A/C". Would that work? We can then put another set of tabs below that for each of the systems we document, with the first being ARA. Does that work? I can easily do it if you'd like to see what it would look like. And you can create the document yourself and I can add it. Or I can copy your previous post.

Yes, try it w/o the kicker. And if that works you can remove the module. I've not run a throttle kicker on any of my several Bullnose trucks. But, Big Blue might be a candidate for it. There's something wrong with the throttle linkage or throttle shaft on the Edelbrock that's on there which causes the idle speed to vary. Sometimes it is down around 500 and the engine shuts off nicely, and sometimes it is up around 700 and it doesn't want to quit. But if the problem is really the throttle shaft being worn in the base of the carb, then the throttle kicker wouldn't fix it. So I'm living with it until the EFI goes on, and that will solve the problem since when the injectors quit squirting gas the engine won't run, and they quit when you turn the key off. Anyway, happy to help. And yes, the dash comes out as a unit, plastic and metal frame. And it is a pain!

Carbs have a fast idle cam that is part of the choke system. So when the choke sets, meaning when you give it a bit of throttle before cranking the engine, the fast idle cam goes under the fast idle screw on the throttle linkage. That way when you release the throttle it is held open slightly to run the engine faster than @ hot idle. As the choke comes off during warm up, if you blip the throttle to take the spring pressure off the fast idle cam it'll go to a slower/lower step, until eventually it is completely out of the equation. So yes, even w/o the throttle kicker the engine should run faster when first started and then slow down as it warms up. The throttle kicker was to completely close the throttle when the key was turned off. That's because these engines were bad about continuing to run w/o a spark, and the fastest way to kill them was to close the throttles. But when aftermarket carbs are installed the bracket for the throttle kicker usually won't fit, so they get tossed. My guess is that's what that wire was for. But if the engine doesn't continue to run when you turn it off them you don't need the throttle kicker.

Funny story, Bill! You are/were a character!

You sure you aren't in Oklahoma? We see drops like that frequently. In fact, one of those is supposed to be here early next week.

Looking good! Gonna rename her Elyza Dual-ot? (I'd make it Dua-lot but you seem to want the "dual" to be obvious.)

What do you plan to hit to break the grille? But the billet grille will look good there. I think Fawn is what Rusty is, the '81 I sold a few years ago. It didn't adhere well on the front of the truck as there were chip marks all over the front. So I understand your problem. But it sounds like you have a plan. A replacement bumper and a paint job. I'm anxious to see the results!

Having said that, I cannot log into the embedded forum with my iPhone X with Safari, Edge, or Chrome.

I understand about the height. I used to be 6', but aren't quite any more. However, I'm closer to it after Janey reminds me to "stand up straight". And I used to be 13 stone. But I think I may have picked up another rock or two in the last year. Anyway, a 5 gallon bucket is worse than my step stand. They are looking for any possible way to get out from under you. Glad you got the tire step. And glad you mentioned it.

Big Blue is sporting one of the pin cushion cowls. Works great.