Gary Lewis

Actually, that is not correct for the 1980 - 1982 models. On those earlier years, the gauge is slightly different in that there is a larger space between "C" and the "NORMAL" scale. Good catch, Rick. The E3 prefix should have tipped me off. Unfortunately Ford took the E0 part number out of the MPC, but it is pretty easy to realize that it would be E0TZ 10883 and probably -A or -B.

The step bars are back on Big Blue. And, they are SOLID! Going to take some time now to clean up the shop before the first set of kids gets here in two weeks for Christmas/New Years. Hopefully Santa will bring some of the lighting goodies I've spec'd out and I can put them on after the dust settles from the two sets of kids that are going to be here. As for the rear view mirror/camera thing, I've realized that my plans to put another camera on and use a switch to choose which camera to feed to the mirror wasn't a good approach. But you can read about that here.

Time for an update on this saga. The vendor, Pormido, is coming out with a 4K mirror/camera combo on the 20th and I could get one for testing. However it will still only have one weatherproof camera, which is for the rear, and a separate camera for the front that is not weatherproof and is to go on the inside of the windshield. They've offered me one for testing, but I've declined and will await someone coming out with a unit with two weatherproof cameras. The reason is that I've realized that my plan to buy a second weatherproof camera, install it on the front bumper, and use a toggle switch to pick which one was fed to the mirror was going to be fiddly to use. That's because the rear camera is usually reversed and you don't want the front camera to be reversed. So I'd have to go into the menu on the mirror and turn reversing off each time I wanted to use the front camera, or remember that everything would be backwards. And that isn't something I want to do. So, if anyone spots a nice mirror with two weatherproof cameras, please let me know.

So, the swamp buggy saga is over? Broken up into bits and sold or used? Glad you recovered your costs. I don't seem to be very good at that.

Good point about the offset on the 300's shroud.

Apparently that storm will hit us tomorrow night. But it isn't "the big one" that is coming later in the week. Hope you get things wrapped up before that hits you.

Only the EFI trucks prime. The rest of us just crank until we have gas as the e-pump gets full power in Start.

That barn shot is beautiful! What backup camera do you have? And BigBro made it up the hill in the snow? Cool!

I will see if I can post a video will have to see if there is a "how to" on it. Yes I did take it out today. First outing was the weekly trash run. You only hear (inside) a little deeper note nothing big. A few of us in the car club I am a member of went a few towns over for a parade we put our cars / truck in. Antlers & red nose on the truck and a Santa's for me. With my gray beard the little kids thought I was Santa LOL There were a few that yelled nice truck. Driving from the parade to lunch then home I had the windows open and I did not hear anything different than with the windows up on the noise. Cant say what it sounds like on a drive by? Maybe I will have my son do that so I can hear? Other wise I am happy as I cant have it to loud when I leave for work at 12am to 3am at times. Dave ---- To post a video: Put the video on Youtube Get the "embed code" from Youtube by clicking on "Share" Paste the embed code into your post on here Tick the "Message is in HTML Format" box before posting. BUT, when you check the box you don't get carriage returns between paragraphs so you have to click "Formatting" and then "Line Feed" to put returns in. And I fully understand what you mean about noise. I don't want much of it either. Hopefully you will have exactly what you want.

Excellent price! 80/86 F100/350,U150 E3TZ 10883-B "C-NORMAL-H"

That's a great price. 80/ F150/350 — frame mounted carrier w/aft axle tank E0TZ 1405-B

Yep! Sad story, but friends of mine lost their 23 year old son to a drunk driver recently. And all that was salvageable from his 60's Chevy pickup was the tailgate. And they are having a bench made out of it. They'll remember him every time they sit on it. That's a valid reason for making a seat/bench.

I only found one, but know I have others. Anyway, this factory A/C panel measures 7 9/16 x 2 1/16. And the inset plastic piece is 7 1/4 x 2".

I would think they'd all be the same size since the hole in the dash is the same. But I have some of them and will measure them in a bit - after more coffee.

Good point, Shaun. Paying that much and getting a repro would be a real bummer!

Your pic shows that the core is 1 1/2" in from the edge, so assuming that the other side is the same your core is probably 29" wide. Our page at Documentation/Cooling Systems/Shroud Part #'s there are two that come pretty close to that - one for the 300 six and one for the 460. But they differ in height and bolt hole spacing. So, where I you I'd go to that page and compare the dimensions to your radiator's height, width, and bolt hole spacing and pick the one that comes closest to matching.

Cool! Post a video? Will you have it out today for a car/truck show? Have fun!

I agree with Pete, but I'll bet it'll just be surface cracking and not structural. And what I've done in that case is to sand the cracks smooth. Also, I don't install the Coverlay cover with the dash pad on the truck. Instead I have it on the bench and us all sorts of clamps and rubber bands to hold the cover to the pad while the glue is setting up. Speaking of which, I've not had good luck with the RTV they send. I'm thinking that the next time I'll use spray contact cement.

I don't see how the oil pressure switch can provide a prime function. With no pressure P & S will be connected and the light will be on. With pressure P & I will be connected and the pump will run. I think you might like the push button for priming. As for the regulator, that's the one I am using and I had the pulsing problems. I didn't know about modulators, but the 2nd regulator was on hand, so I used it.

Can you read it? Best not to move it if you don't have to. Those hex-headed rivets aren't readily available, and round ones might raise a flag. But, if you saved the rivet heads and glued them awa the VIN label on...

Glad you got the right windshield. That can be a major problem. BTDT. Yes, it was WARM today here as well. But that is going to change, soon. Sunday night, they say. The paint looks good. And a little bit of fuss won't hurt at all. The door lock mechanism runs very close to the window, and if it is bent it can easily be moved by the window. I had a problem on Big Blue where the PS door would lock correctly with the window down, but not up. So I pulled the panel and watched as the window moved. Sure enough, I could see the problem. Then I pulled the linkage from both sides and laid them side by side and it was obvious that the PS linkage was bent differently than the DS linkage. So I re-bent it and it worked!

For reference I've included the schematic from the '85 EVTM, below. And I would wire it exactly the way it shows, which is essentially the way you've diagramed, with one exception - your priming switch. Your diagram indicates you plan to use a toggle switch, and I would NOT do that. Instead I'd use a push button. A toggle could be accidentally switched on to bypass the inertia switch in an accident, which could be a major problem. A push button switch probably wouldn't. Also, tell me more about the FDM. Is this an EFI FDM from the later trucks? If so I need to tell you about the issue I had when doing the same thing - way too much fuel pressure. I put a return-style regulator in the engine compartment and fired it up, only to find the pressure gauge oscillating, and spiking too high. I had to put a dead-head style regulator after the other one to get steady fuel pressure at the proper level. You can read about it, and see my video, here.

You are sure it isn't dieseling? If so, then I'd try pulling the wires off the coil and see if it stops. (I'm assuming you have the horse shoe connector that will let you slide the connections off.) And if that kills it you probably have an ignition switch problem. My guess is that your switch isn't aligned quite right and that the cold has set the grease up so the switch doesn't come all of the way back to Off. The alignment process is outlined on the Ignition Switch tab at Documentation/Electrical/Ignition. But you'll want to clean and lube the switch as you do it.

I like it! 'Tis a shame that Big Blue has no place for a front tag. But it sure looks good on yours.