Gary Lewis

I like option A. You'd be using it for exactly what it was made for. I think 3 seconds is adequate. And it replaces everything in your circuitry. Also, it isn't clear to me that Option B is a one-shot. In other words, I'm not sure that it wouldn't give you a high output for as long as the trigger is high. You can overcome that by using an RC circuit to filter the input, but you have to add it on. And you still need the oil pressure switch.

That's a major difference between your system and everything else now on the market. Yours has RCA connectors and should be able to take any camera with those connectors. But now everything has proprietary connectors, usually little 4 or 5-pin jobs that are different from one camera to the next. For instance, on the Pormido that has both a front (meant for inside use) and rear (waterproofed) camera has two different connectors for the two different cameras, preventing you from swapping them. And when I asked if I could buy a 2nd rear camera and replace its connector with the connector from the front camera I was told that it would probably fry the electronics in the display. I've had a hard time believing that, but I asked more than once and got that answer both times. And having thought about it, I wondered if there are LEDs in the rearview camera. But looking at the picture of it above I don't think so. Given that, I'm still wondering why I can't just use two rear cameras. It would sure make it easier. But I'm afraid of burning out the unit.

Ok, home and time for an update. Crutchfield: Early this morning I sent Nate @ Crutchfield another message, reminding him what I'm trying to do and explaining that his recommended pick didn't really fit the bill, but is no longer available. To which he responded "Let me take a look around and I will respond back with an recommendation." Wolfbox: Mia said "I recommend you to buy this G840S ASIN: B0811Q28N6 Rear camera ASIN: B09H5KBK9X This separate rear camera does not have a cable. If you buy it, we will send you a cable for free." I've thanked her, but from what I can tell I'll have to install a switch to select which camera to use. But, since the rear camera is normally reversed I'd have to also go into the menu and change that setting each time I wanted to see forward, and that's too fiddly. Best Buy: Mike, one of the salesmen, talked to me extensively about this. We went through all of the offerings they have and didn't find anything that would work. But, I noticed that they sell iBeam, which is what you have, Jeff. I got the model # of your mirror and he looked it up. They can get it, but they've never carried it in the store and he knows nothing about it. So he took me back to the installer's bay and we talked to Travis, their head installer. He didn't know of anything like what I'm looking for, and had never seen your iBeam. But he looked its specs over closely and said it looks like it is several iterations old given the 1280 pixels horizontally. However, he then realized that it doesn't come with a camera, and the recommended camera is only 720p, as you found, and is $100. So two of those and the unit itself, which goes for $410 from them, is pushing $700 with tax. We then talked about the 12"/4000 pixel Pormido that I've been looking at, the new one with a waterproof rear camera and a detached "front" camera that isn't waterproof, and their recommendation was to go with it and figure out how to waterproof the front camera. Especially since it lists at $200 and comes with both cameras. Pormido: So I emailed Melissa and told her that I've re-re-re-considered and am seriously considering their new 4K unit. And, I asked for drawing, pictures, and/or dimensions for their "front" camera. And now for some thinking of mine. Jeff, your statement about the display not being all that crisp worries me. So I did some research and playing with the dimensions and specs and came to the realization that: 720P: These cameras have 1,280×720 pixels, so on a 7.3" screen like the iBeam has there would be 175 pixels per inch. 2.5K: This is what the current Pormido system has, and there are 2,560×1,440 pixels. So on their 12" screen there would be 213 pixels per inch. 4K: The new Pormido system is to have this rating, which has 3,840×2,160 pixels. And it also has a 12" screen so it'll have 320 pixels/inch. So basically the 4K screen will have almost twice as many pixels per inch as yours and be 63% wider. I'm thinking that would probably be enough to make it "crisp", and that plus the price difference makes it worth figuring out how to waterproof the front camera. And speaking of the cameras, here's a screenshot of the front camera on the left and the rear camera on the right.

This is cool!

Jeff - Thanks a bunch! I’m out and about, and will report on what I’ve found when I get home. And I’m emailing with various companies as well, and will hopefully have something to report from them by then.

No mods were made to Big Blue to run those wheels. The original backing plates were on it before I swapped the D60 in.

Jeff - Thanks. I'm NOT finding much out there that fits my needs. And your system would, although I was hoping for a wider display and higher resolution. But something is far better than nothing, which is what I have. So I do have a few questions for you: Resolution: You said "the image quality is not as clear as my other "modern" vehicles", but is it clear enough? Wiring: Did you have to run power to the camera in addition to the video wire? This isn't mentioned in the owner's manual, and I've found two different versions of the manual online. Buying: Where did you get it and at what price? I'm finding a wide range of prices and a lot of "no longer available". Camera: What camera did you get? It doesn't appear to come with cameras - or am I wrong on that? Recommendation: Would you recommend this unit and camera? Or should I keep looking?

That helps, Matt. Thanks. The zip ties in particular are a good idea. I've struggled getting that screw in, but hadn't though of using a long zip tie.

Yep, that is a crash! We had a front come through last night and dropped quite a bit, but not that much!

Is the intake aluminum? Is it used? I've seen lots of aluminum intakes that have corrosion around the water passages and it might leak there. Otherwise, it acts as if you have a mismatch in the intake and the head. I doubt a crack in either would allow the amount of coolant you seem to be seeing to get into the cylinders. If it is all back together I'd be tempted to pressurize the cooling system with 10 psi of air and listen with a hose to my ear to various places. The carb. Each spark plug hole. The exhaust. Try to find any air leak.

Thanks, Dane. I checked the Kenwood site and didn't find any mirrors. But I sent them a query anyway. I've really liked the Kenwood products I've been around in the past and would love to get a name-brand product like theirs for this. I just can't find it on their site. And speaking of queries, I sent another one to Wolfbox. And again I drew Mia as the tech. In part here's the exchange so far: Gary: I need two weatherproof cameras, one on the front bumper and one on the rear. As for switching, I would want it to go to the rear camera when in reverse, meaning the backup lights are on. And to switch to the front, that could be via another trigger lead I would put a switch on, or via your menu if it was easy to do. Mia: If so, then you need to unplug and plug in another camera every time you want to switch cameras. Because the screen of the unit can only display two images of a front camera and a rear camera. Gary: Which of your units is that? I’ll take a look at it. Mia: I am referring if you want to achieve this operation, you need to purchase an additional rear camera + cable. Gary: Thanks, but I'm confused. Which unit is it that you are recommending? Which rear camera should I purchase separately? I don't have a lot of confidence that we are getting anywhere. What am I missing?

I'm sure the versions from a full-size truck would. I'm not sure how the frame thickness on a Ranger compares to a full-size truck. The later Torx-headed bolts and sheet metal nuts might be a pretty good solution for you, John.

Then I've been right in your neighborhood.

Yep, I think Blue has those. Wonder if the sheet metal nuts would work on our trucks? Otherwise you’d need two people or a long cheater.

I forgot the choke flapping. Can the unloader do that much? Maybe only if there’s almost no tension on the choke stove? Yes, valves could be an issue. If the thing didn’t start and run well for 45 seconds I’d be wondering about cam timing. It the six has gears and I’d think they’d strip rather than skip.

It sounds like the problem isn't with the carb as you get the same results with either carb. Which is strange because it also sounds like the fuel/air mix is very rich since you have to hold the choke open rather than closed. And that rules out broken vacuum lines. But you said "When it sits overnight and I start it up it starts right up and idles for about 45 seconds and then will just start struggling and die. (This happens with either carburetor installed)." From that I can think of two things that might do it: Clogged Exhaust: If the exhaust system is plugged, as the pressure comes up in the system the engine will struggle to run. But, the pressure would then go away after the engine dies and it should start and run ok for another 45 seconds. Ignition: You said it is a TFI system. The distributer-mounted TFI systems cause all sorts of headaches, and especially when they get warm. If you have the money you can test this by replacing both the TFI module and the pickup in the distributor. But if you have the time you can test it by using a heat gun to warm up the TFI module before starting the truck. If instead of starting and running well for 45 seconds it struggles to start or run then you probably have found the problem.

You are making progress, peeling the onion.

The push button would be rarely needed. Very rarely. In fact, there probably aren't more then a few hundred carb'd vehicle in the world that have such a setup, and they have all been added by someone like us. Why? Because after a carb'd vehicle sits for a long period of time the bowl will be dry from evaporation. This is more of a problem now than it used to be since our gas is more volatile given the ethanol that is in most of it. But if you have driven the vehicle in the last few days there should still be gas in the carb and it'll start right up. So priming is only helpful, not needed, when the vehicle has set for a long period of time. As for the relay bit, I'm not following what you are suggesting. But, I do see a way of automatically priming things. A timer circuit could be set to pull the fuel pump relay in for X seconds each time the key is turned on. But leaving the key on would not keep the relay on. So you would unknowingly be priming the carb briefly each time you turn the key on. But normally you go right through Run to Start and there's only a few milliseconds of priming, which probably wouldn't do anything. But if the truck has set for some time you could turn the key to Run, wait a couple of seconds for it to prime, and then crank it.

Yes, that's what I see as well. Thanks.

There might be and I meant to look to see what all is in the box as I have yet to do that But I have an up date: I spent some time on the choke today. I wanted to swap the temp sensor in the air filter that works the snout hot air valve. I did that but I think the valve is no good as I have vacuum at the valve I routed the cold air side of the hot air asst. in close to the motor & manifolds. I think with it kind of out it the open it was getting too cold and any heat picked up after that point was just not enough. I was going to add to the copper and make a few more loops around the exh manifold but I did not have a good way to join more tubing to what was on the truck but .......... I picked up header wrap the other day and wrapped 7.5 feet of 15 feet around the manifold and tubing. I can tell you the hot air tube dose get HOT at the choke so I am happy on that. In testing the tube was getting hot and so was the electric cap as I could feel that getting hot so both are working as they should. I also know the choke is opening all the way even before I started the mods as I had the air filter off as I was checking for oil leak after I changed the oil PSI sender. It was also 70*f out and the choked worked good if the temp was above 45*f, I just dont know when it may get below that temp again for testing? So till it gets cold again I will be using the truck as it is now. Dave ---- Good luck. Hopefully this solved your problem.

Amazon has some spray paint in 6-packs. But it is looking good!

The antenna is grounded and so would bring a ground down its lead. Perhaps your ground didn't work?

Thanks, Bill. You know far more about it than I do.

I just tried logging in via the link above, and it recognizes my password, but doesn't say that I'm logged in. Furthermore, I noticed upon clicking on individual threads, it won't open any of them. I can open the different subsections, but individual threads do nothing. I'm not sure if that's related or not. I'm running Microsoft Edge on Windows 10. Shaun - Thanks. It wouldn't show the threads to me either. So I backed out a change I'd made and it does now. Please give it another try - after refreshing your browser.

If you use stainless, which is what I would do, make sure you use something to keep the nut from seizing on the bolt. I like Loctite 56747 PST. I've had brand new stainless nuts seize on brand new stainless bolts w/o some kind of lube.