Gary Lewis

I'm confused about the way you are going to wire it. I thought in Start you were sending power to the pump w/o going through the oil pressure switch. The switch is only used in Run. And the timer bypasses the oil pressure switch. Right? As for your needs, I think A & C are the same - Hot in Run. So you really have only two needs. And in the schematic below you can see where I think you can tap in for those: Hot In Run: The green arrow shows where I'd get the Hot In Run signal, and that's on the white/light blue wire just before the connector going to the ignition module. (After the connector the wire is red, but you don't want to connect there as it would make swapping ignition modules hard later.) Hot In Start: The red arrow shows where I'd get the Hot In Start signal, which is right at the starter relay. I picked that spot because it is after the neutral start or clutch switch. But you could also pick the same wire up at the ignition module.

I think you'll like the cool whites w/o the filters. That setup isn't quite "factory", but I was never really enamored with Ford's "blue" look. I like my gauges easily readable and the cool whites did that for me. Yes, I'm having a good week. Ran all over Tulsa today to find what my wife wanted for her sewing room - a Husky adjustable-height work table and a shelving unit. They didn't have them in the stores that said they did, but we eventually found them, got them loaded up, brought them home, unloaded them, and got them not only upstairs but put together. She's happy, and I'm happy and tired.

Can you post their web address ? I keep getting nintendo hits when I search ... My 03 F350 has a jump seat and that's useless to me Yes, it is https://classicconsoles.com/. And, we have a thread, oddly called Classic Consoles.

Those are nice! Glad I don't need them.

That is the EGR valve/plate. I don’t remember what you need to do to eliminate that on that engine/carb setup. But if you do the ignition timing should be changed as it will be advanced a long ways at part throttle.

How about a pic with the filters in place? And glad the forum is helping.

Thanks, Nick.

Well spotted, Jeff! I hadn't seen the front camera extension. However, I'm doubting that 10' will be long enough if I have to use the front camera. Having said that, I may get them to throw one of those in as they've indicated they might do something for me. I'll give it a try. But they've told me that the front and rear cameras have different connectors, so I don't think that means you can put one where the other goes. However, the Amazon listing for that extension says "PORMIDO 2 Meters Extension Cable for PR998 D50 Front Camera Room Camera". So it works for those two cameras if you order the D50 system, which is the same as the PR998 but has an added camera to watch the people in the vehicle. So at least those two cameras have the same plug. As for "well recognized", I suspect that was literally lost in translation. I think the "do not flip over" bit refers to ensuring the front camera's connection is on the left side of the camera. Otherwise the image will be upside down, which might cause some "recognition" problems in the software. And speaking of upside down, there's a note somewhere about installing the rear camera upside down, and if you do want to do that get their firmware for that. So I've asked and they'll send me that firmware once I order. Thought it might be helpful, but don't know that I'll need to mount the rear camera that way. Nor do I know if it works on the front camera, but I've asked.

Wow! That is high praise! Thanks!

Isn't it great to be able to see the instruments!?!? What color did you get?

Beat me to it. You like yours?

I think this is what you are looking for: https://www.hipoparts.com/245-lumen-20x-plasma-smd-bulb-194-t-10-wedge-360-wide-angle/ If you talk to them, tell Bill I sent you.

Yes, I'd say it does alright for 9000 lbs! But you've done a ton of work on it as well.

The new looks good! The old looks...yukky! On the gauges, the range is from 10 to 72 ohms, with 22 ohms being midpoint, if I remember correctly. And this would be a good time to replace the ICVR with a real voltage regulator. We have a page on that (Documentation/Electrical/ICVR) but there are now commercial versions if you don't want to make your own. And you are right to assume the gauge is good and the sender bad. The gauges are pretty rugged and rarely fail while the senders fail frequently. On the lights, I'd ditch the blue filters and put in some HIPO LED's. The blue filters rob so much of the light output of the already woefully inadequate incandescent bulbs you can't see the gauges. I've done some testing with various lights, and you can see the results here.

It would have to be a pretty big crack, but that would certainly do it.

Hello! Glad you joined. Neat truck. That combination should be reliable and good on fuel - for a truck. Where's home? I ask because we have a map (Bullnose Forum/Member's Map in the menu) and we can add you if we had a city/state or a zip.

The tiger stripes appear to be light and dark spots, meaning that the covering isn't even. So yes, maybe too close. But, not enough paint yet, either.

Jeff - You caused me to rethink this, and I'm coming around to your way of thinking. Both cameras are using Sony IMX335 chips, although with different lenses to get the different angles. So, how can the rear camera hurt the electronics if it is put in place of the front camera?Given that, here's my latest "cunning plan", and I'd like y'all to comment:Order the 998 system with just the two cameras, front and rear.Cut the cable to the front camera, which has to be done anyway as the cable is far too short to reach the front bumper, and measure the current required to run it.Somehow measure the current required to run the rear camera. The cable that comes with it is 33' long, so I'll probably want to shorten it anyway.If the current to run the front camera is reasonably close to that required to run the rear camera, order an extra Pormido New Backup Camera for D50 PR998If the current is much greater for the rear camera then install the front camera in a plastic box. Thoughts? I'm about ready to order, so would appreciate your input.

Melissa, from Pormido, has repeatedly told me that the system isn't capable of powering a rear camera plugged into the front camera spot. I've asked that question multiple ways, multiple times and have gotten the same answer each time. In fact, she told me that one customer did that and the system failed soon thereafter. I don't understand why that is, but I believe her well enough not to try it.

I know that Amazon has been accused of buying reviews, but apparently the vendors themselves are doing it. And I don't want to be part of it. Anyway, watching a video of one reviewer it looks like the front camera itself is round, with the lens coming off the side as well as that column that has the red bit, that I think is adhesive, on it. And it has what looks like a 3mm plug which goes into the end of it. So I'm thinking that I can put the 3mm plug through a waterproof gland joint through the side of the case. Attach the camera to the lid, plug the connector in, put the lid on, and then tighten the gland joint down. As for mounting it, there is 3 1/2" of space above the winch fairlead and I might be able to attach the box there with doublesided tape. Or, I could put a bracket on the fog light bracket and attach the box to that. I think I need to measure some more and make sure that the camera won't be the leading edge.

Today's update is that I heard from Kenwood: "Unfortunately Kenwood does not manufacture rear view mirrors with external cameras. We apologize for the inconvenience."But I did hear back from Pormido, and learned that I don't really care for their approach to having people test. Here's what Melissa said: To me that's basically "buying" reviews. So I'll just buy the model I want, which is the PORMIDO 12” Mirror Dash Cam with Detached Front Camera.I still haven't heard back from Melissa on what the dimensions are for the front camera, but I've found these waterproof plastic boxes, which have clear lids. In the pic of the camera, my understanding is the red is the adhesive used to attach it to the windshield. So I'm thinking I'd just attach it to the plastic lid, although I don't know yet if that box is the right size.Anyone have any other ideas? Suggestions?

Amen, brother! I just decorated the tree - and have glitter all over me from some ornament. Still gotta clean the shop. But at least Big Blue is ready - and they want a ride.

/\ /\ What he said! To fix a worn carb that way would require pulling the butterflies off the shaft, pulling the shaft out, boring the carb base out, pressing bushings in, reaming the bushings to the right diameter and alignment, and reinstalling & aligning the throttle shaft and butterflies. Not something just everybody should attempt.

I can neither confirm nor deny the accuracy of those listings. As shown below, trucks manufactured before 7/16/79, which would have been very early 1980 trucks, got D7AZ 7D411-A. But according to the 1994 MPC, trucks after that got F0TZ 7D411-A. But that's an impossibility as that part didn't come out until 1990 given the "F0" in the prefix, which is 10 years after some of the trucks were made. So there had to have been another part, and it was surely this one, meaning E0TZ 7D411-A, since it would have come out for the 1980 trucks, hence the "E0". But the later version of the MPC has erased that knowledge, although if we REALLY cared I'd climb to the Microfiche Tower and figure it out on my '82 MPC.

Yeah, if you have the 3.89's in stock then it makes sense to go with them. They'll make a huge difference. I'm amazed at how many people put huge tires on and won't re-gear. Next door neighbor did that and, in spite of my urging, had to drive the Jeep on the floor. Years later he re-geared and told me he wished he'd have done it when I suggested it. Night and day difference. Sounds like you are using all the bits off that parts truck. Or holding onto them until you need them. Good plan. I've done the same on Huck's bits, and have been surprised how often I need something from him. The droop on the Ram is good. Makes the landing soooo much better. Big Blue had 2" of articulation with the original TTB's and leaf springs. The D60/Superduty springs & RSK gave it 8", and the ride and handling are dramatically better. But those coil springs you have are even better. Neat pics on that page. This one's unbelievable!