Gary Lewis

You are right, the grille has been replaced with an '82-86 grille as the '80-81 grille didn't have the oval. Also, it has the clear turn signals. I wish they would have shown the certification label as I'd like to know the plant and manufacturing date. But it is really a nice truck!

Your latest description brought something else to mind - the choke. If the choke is set too rich the engine will start running rough and potentially die. What I'd do is start the engine, cold, with the air cleaner off and watch the choke. If it is still on a bunch when the engine starts running rough I'd manually open the choke a bit to see if that helps. If so, we are onto something.

That's a hard question to answer as there is no solid info on which to base one's response. But, I think it best to keep the master matched to your truck in order to get the best balance in braking front/rear as well as "feel" in the pedal. In your case our page at Documentation/Driveline/Brakes says that your truck with a GVW of less than 8500 lbs would take master cylinder E4TZ 2140-A. But apparently in '87 the federal requirements changed and the break between light duty and heavy duty trucks became 7000 lbs instead of 8500 lbs. And that page shows that a 1987 - 1989 F250 with less than 7000 lbs GVW takes a E7TZ 2140-C. But since my Master Parts Catalog quits at 1989 that's as far as I can tell on that page. But our page at Documentation/Interchange goes much later, and it shows that the E7TZ 2140-C master was used at least until 1992. So that's the one I'd go with. As for fit, there was a change in stud width between the lighter duty masters and HD masters, so I think you'd be safer getting the LD F250 master.

Very, very true. GIGO still applies.

On Youtube it is easy:Open up the Youtube video you wantClick "Share"Click "Embed"Copy the Embed Video code you are shown, which starts with "".In the editing window here on the forum click the "Embed" button.Paste the embed code between the "tags" that are inserted, as shown below But here's a bit more on that. In your video's case the code says 'width="560"' and "height=315"'. But I find that too small so usually increase it to twice that, meaning 1120 and 630. And, if you tick the "Start at" box before copying the embed code there will be a "start=" parameter added to your code, and then you can hit Preview and play with that parameter to get it to start where you want. Or, set it to 0 to start from the beginning.

Another notch in the already-skimpy belt.

Some place I need to document this 'cause I have to keep telling people about it since it is so bizarre. But any # on a part is not a part #. Does that make sense? It doesn't to me. In the 60's Ford had one of their Better Ideas, and I think it says a lot that it was in the 60's. But the idea was that they'd put ID #'s on the parts and part numbers in the Master Parts Catalog. Then they published a Master Cross Reference List where both are listed. I have three of those cross reference books, and the 1980 version thereof is 1228 pages long. And, sure enough, ID # E0TH-18D306-AA cross references to E0TZ-18518-A. One tipoff that you are looking at an ID #, other than it being on the part, is that the prefix should be something like E0TZ and not E0TH. Another is the double-character suffix like -AA. Part numbers, from what I see, never went to more than one character. But ID #'s had both single and double-character suffixes.

No, it was stupidity on my end.

There's really no way to accurately say when the choke should be completely off. That's because there are so many variables, like outside air temp, how lean your carb is jetted, whether or not you have hot air plumbed to the carb and if that system is working, etc. So the best thing to say is that it should be fully open when the engine no longer needs the extra fuel. I'd expect that to be when the coolant temp is up fully and you've put some miles on the vehicle. But the real test is how well the engine runs. If everything is set up correctly it should start easily, keep running through warmup, and not have any bogs. Plus, it shouldn't blow black smoke at any time, which indicates too much fuel. It sounds like you have it set just about right. But the fact that the choke wasn't fully off after your jaunt around the neighborhood suggests it might be a tad too rich. Still, the proof is in the driving.

But Gary, what about your grinded finger? We are worried about it. Joking aside, you know how respectful we are about all the time and effort you put on this forum. Thanks for all and, please, relax and take care! Jeff - The finger is much better, but not well. I keep a Bandaid over it as there's a scab right on the end. Apparently it hit the grinding wheel right below the nail and on the corner of the wheel. So there's a groove or notch in the end of the finger, with a scab on top of that carnage. However, I can type. I've learned not to use that finger as it is painful even to hit the keys on the keyboard. So I'm doing pretty well And thanks. I appreciate the support.

Ok, I'm watching the videos now. And some thoughts: Your buddy's Jeep seems to be having a bit of problem right out of the chute getting over things. Is it due to the open diffs? And later, around the 10 minute mark on the first video he really struggles. What power steering pump were you running, a C-II? And it is hilarious that you said "Don't stall it" right where you'd stalled. Were both of you aired down? It sure seems like there is a lot of bouncing. But I do see that the trail was really, really rocky. And did your buddy make it? The first video stops with him having problems! And so does the 2nd video! Anyway, I like them! Keep them coming. And do you want to know how to embed?

Sorry for your problems. Been there, done that. Or, as Dad would have said, "I feel for you but can't quite reach you." Hope you get the tranny sorted. Those kinds of things where you have to take apart what you've already done aren't any fun. And the throttle linkage is a pain as it is hard to depress it and see what is happening under the hood at the same time. So I hope you get everything settled soon and easily.

Welcome. But sorry for the concern on your end - although it was surely far less than the concern on this end.

You don't know how bloody my head is! I've beaten it against every immovable object in the neighborhood. But it is good to have friends, even if they are a continent (island, but don't tell him) away.

I'm sorry! I made a mistake last night about this time and while the forum has technically been up, we didn't have a good way to access it. Basically what I did was to over-right the embed code on the website. And since when I published the site we then couldn't get in, I couldn't get back in to get the code. So I'm going to preserve it here w/o its leading and trailing "" characters: I've been working most of the day to recreate that code, and got close. But this ain't horse shoes or hand grenades, so nothing worked. Finally my friend Greg in the UK suggested a set of code that was close enough to get me in, and then I got the code above. THANKS, GREG!!!!! So, I'm sorry. Have at it, guys. Post away!

Bob - The links work, and are as good as embedding the videos here. But if you want to know how to do it I'll explain - in the morning. I'm headed to bed soon and have absolutely JUST gotten the forum back on line after fighting it all day. But, I'll certainly watch them in the morning. Looking forward to it, for sure.

You're not missing anything. I'm not trying to talk you (or anyone else) out of it. I just want to make sure people know what they're getting into. I don't want to bad-mouth anyone based on what I see of them in a few minutes on YouTube. But yeah, it looked like he was going faster than I'd be comfortable with. And this is the second Black Bear roll I've seen on YouTube where someone ran up on the high side and rolled it. The first was in a straight section after the first switchback. I think that driver was scared of the low side, so got too close to the high side. And this one I suspect was trying to swing the turn as wide as he could to make the switchback easier, but clearly he swung it wider than he could. Anyway, two points from this. One, as I said before, this trail is dangerous. So are highways, so I'm not saying no one should drive it. But don't be complacent about it (and Gary, I'm not worried that you would get complacent here). And two, stay on the trail! Yeah, you don't want to drive off the low side, that can kill you. But driving off the high side can be just as bad. Complacent I'm not, nor will I be. What others probably can't see is how steep those places really are. But I remember quite well how steep they are, and that FJ was cruising faster than I would. Anyway, I've passed links to this thread on to my brother and my son. We shall see.

Good question! That truck is well worth the money.

Corey - Don't forget the one on the radiator support. I think that makes three.

Nice! And it looks good! Can't wait for an MPG report.

Shaun beat me - but only by two minutes.

Nice truck! As for the hubcaps, our page at Documentation/Driveline/Wheel Covers shows those to be Type 6 and they were used on both the Broncos and F-Series from 1980 onwards.

Wow! Several thoughts. First, the 2020 Power Wagon has a wheelbase of 149.3" vs Big Blue's 133". And overall length is 238.9" vs 208.3. So Big Blue is 30" shorter with a 16" shorter wheelbase. So if that Power Wagon can make it so can BB. In fact, the only thing I see he has over BB is the automatic tranny, which makes it easier to back up smoothly. What am I missing? Second, the guy that rolled the FJ was going a lot faster than I was comfortable with in the first video, and obviously too fast when he rolled it. Rick and I kept BB "on the boil" going up the passes where we weren't in danger of rolling. But on descents we were much more cautious - and you can see why that makes sense. Third, he obviously got too close to the left/high side, and did so w/o a spotter. Had his friend gotten out and talked him through it that wouldn't have happened.

On the lighter outlet I just got 1 of them USB dual port thingies I plug in to use to charge my phone. As for the ash tray that is where the lighter part is along with a small screw driver and a few other things I cant remember now but I can close it and just have the charge cord hanging out. Dave ---- It'll be interesting to see how the speaker works. Not being a true dual voice coil unit it'll have left and right channels in the center, but obviously the stuff that is in both channels will be louder. As for the USB charger, I put a dual USB-C/A charger in the spot for the lighter and ran key-on power to it since I don't want the power to be on at all times. But I haven't figured out a good use for the ash tray itself as everything I've put in it rattles or falls out.