Gary Lewis

Thanks! I really like it. Now if it would get cold enough to wear it...

I want to document some measurements I've made. First, there are two ways to power the unit. It comes with a power adapter that plugs into the cigar lighter, but if you power it that way on our trucks the unit will always be on since our cigar lighters are always hot. The other way is with the module that is in their "hardware kit", and this is the way I'm installing it. That unit turns the 12v into 5v for the mirror & has two power wires into the module. One is labeled B+ and goes to always-on power. The other is labeled ACC and goes to key-on power. And when you hit the ACC lead with power it takes about 4 seconds for the mirror to come on. When on and at max brightness I measured 888 ma draw on the B+ wire, and nothing on the ACC wire, but dialing the brightness down a bit brought it down to about 650 ma on the B+ wire. And when you kill power to the ACC wire the unit usually powers down in a few seconds. But, if the ACC wire isn't connected to a load the unit doesn't always power down - apparently because that is just a sense wire. When ACC is off and B+ is on the unit is watching for an impact. If one is detected the display will come on and it will record for whatever length of time you've set and lock that file so it can't be overwritten. And while the unit is on it'll pull the normal current, meaning ~650 ma. But when it is just monitoring it pulls 7 ma. In other words, not much at all. I think there's another mode where the thing is recording all the time you are parked, but I've not investigated that - yet. I don't see a need for that normally, but I can see that in some situations that might be helpful. As for the front camera, it looks to me like I need a box with at least these inside dimensions: 3" wide; 2" top/bottom; 1 1/2" front/rear. That would give me enough extra room to install a waterproof grommet and wrap the wire around the end of the camera and plug it in. And I'll have to slip the cable through that grommet before splicing the wire to the end with the connector. However, that begs the question of how to mount the camera. I'm thinking that it might be best to use their double-stick tape and attach it to the clear lid. That way I can take the lid off if I need to get to the camera.

You can email him through the forum. Click on his pin on the map, and then click the url with his email and follow the instructions on the page that opens. But note that our email system is having problems and it may look like your email didn't go, although it usually does. So I copy myself so I know when it does.

Strange!

Small world. Do you know Michael/broboyle?

Lefty? Why? Is he left-handed?

Welcome! Glad you joined. And, by the way, we are family-oriented so you might think about having your son join as well. Where's home? I ask because we have a map (Bullnose Forum/Member's Map in the menu) and we can add you with a city/state or zip. And to post pics you need to use the "Insert Image" button. Your pics are larger than the 1 meg limit, so I clicked the Big button to allow resizing.

Sounds like a workable plan. I'll hide and watch.

Making progress. Got the adapter plate powder coated today, and in satin black you can now see it: And here 'tis mounted on the mirror: And a couple of shots of the mirror installed. But, there's a minor problem. If you scroll back up you'll see that I centered the hole for the arm to mount to. However, if you look at one of the Bullnose mirrors you'll see that the arm attaches toward the top of the mirror. So I really should drill a hole 1" higher and lower the mirror that much. You can see in the shot below that at this height the microphone for the hands-free is visible in the mirror, so lowering it 1" would help. Once that was done I re-joined the pieces of the rear extension cable. Melissa, the tech at Pormido, doubted my ability to do this, so this is somewhat to show her that I can do it. Basically, I soldered each connection and used adhesive-lined heat shrink on it - except for the uninsulated drain wire. Then I slipped aluminum foil over the whole thing to provide a shield, which contacted the drain wire as a ground, and then a larger piece of adhesive-lined heat shrink over that. And the rear camera works perfectly. With that done I connected the two cameras and tested where I thought I want to put the rear camera. Here are two options that I like. In the one on the left you can see the camera angled down from under the step of the bumper. If I use that I'll probably make a wedge to mount the camera on and bolt it through the hole in the bumper. But the one on the right is my favorite so far as it is about twice as far above the trailer hitch as the other one, so should make connecting the trailer easier. However, note that the camera is angled down in both shots. It looks like 35 degrees down compared to the tag, and it takes that to be able to see the ball of the hitch. However, I'm open to other suggestions. http://www.garysgaragemahal.com/uploads/6/5/8/7/65879365/waving_orig.gif And last, here's a video showing how you can scroll up and down on the views. This is because the camera is probably in 16:9 format but the display is more like 16:4. So there's plenty of ability to scroll up or down. Once you've scrolled the view stays there unless you scroll again - except when you shift into Reverse, assuming you connect that wire to the backup lights. In that case a pair of lines appear on the screen to help you back. And you adjust the lines, as well as the view you want, up or down, in the setup screen for Reverse. This thing has bunches of bells and whistles!

David certainly has a gift, and he uses it! I can't even guess how much he's found for me. Things I didn't even know I needed - like a period-correct jacket:

You did have something to add - epoxy coat the front camera. I hadn't thought of that, but kind of doubt that the lens is even sealed. And, the connection is a 3mm plug, so I'd have to gob the epoxy, or liquid rubber, on it as well. Not sure I'm ready to do that, but I'm also not worried about the warranty. The bumper is from Warn. Was on the truck when I got it, although w/o a winch in it. So I added the 12K Smittybilt unit. Made getting back on the trail in Colorado pretty easy.

I'm fond of Weather-Pack connectors where I might need a device to be removeable/serviceable (e.g. a blower or light fixture). I do the same as you re: solder, heat shrink (I use the waterproof adhesive type) and wire-loom-tape for permanent connections. Definitely jealous of your hydraulic crimper though. :) I've done a few DIY battery cables but don't bother anymore. There are too many good vendors like batterycablesusa.com that make them any way you want. For the few cables I need... The battery box will be an accessory for the slide-in camper. It has limited internal space and used to draw straight from the truck or an outside power pole/generator. I'll be adding solar instead, but there's not a lot of room for batteries, charge controllers, inverters, etc. So I'm either going to use a commercial "solar generator" or just make one DIY, and it will live in the empty space in front of the wheel well. (I'll have an access door to get to it in emergencies, but these things are pretty bulletproof.) That box will have inputs for solar from the camper roof and a DC-DC charge controller from the truck's alternator. The feed from the truck will be isolated like yours. I'm not worried about a second battery for the truck itself - I carry one of those lithium jump packs and they work great for my needs. This will keep a heavy, less-frequently-used item out of the camper "footprint" and also isolate the camp rig from the truck while still giving me plenty of power. When the camper isn't installed, I can use the battery box for other things. This is sort of off topic for this forum, but I'm converting the camper to all-electric. The old propane lines are sketchy and I don't trust them safety-wise. The only two things that use propane are the stove and fridge (there's no hot water heater). I'll replace the fridge with one of those new chest-style units the van life folks are switching to, and the stove can run on 1lb bottles. Think that camera would still work if you sealed it yourself? People make all kinds of containers for cameras, you might get away with it for a long while if you add any kind of barrier at all. I don't know how big it is but if you don't care about voiding your warranty maybe you can carefully epoxy-pot it, just with a brush, you know? And just tape off the lens while you do it? Sounds like a well thought out plan. On the camera, how 'bout joining our discussion here? I'd love to have your input. Right now I'm thinking I'll go with a plastic box that has a clear lid, and maybe later make a better aluminum box for it. However, the Pormido tech told me this morning that she's going back to the engineers and push for a waterproof front camera, so maybe this won't be a long-term problem?

Actually, the name for the part from the MPC is CABLE ASSY. (SPEED CONTROL). It is what the vendor called it that threw you.

From our page at Documentation/Driveline/Speedometer Gears, Cables, & Sensors, it is a lower cable for the 1980 2wd w/factory installed speed control w/o ratio adapter, and 1981/85 2wd with auto tranny with factory installed speed control.

Sorta. We have a thread on it here: https://forum.garysgaragemahal.com/Ford-Announces-The-Eluminator-Crate-Electric-Motor-td103351.html

Big Blue measures 6" off the floor with a carpeted mat on the floor.

Stock the S-10 had 31" tires and the clearance to use them. That's the same as the green Jeep from my first videos, so that's about a wash. The Jeep is smaller so in tight places it has a big advantage. On the other hand, the S-10, with it's longer wheelbase, is a more stable platform, especially on steep climbs or descents. On these trips it wasn't ever that tight, and it wasn't ever that steep, so again about a wash. The S-10 had more compliant suspension than the Jeep, but on a bigger platform. The S-10 probably gets the advantage here on the trails we were on. And the biggest difference was the rear locker in the S-10. So yes, the S-10 did very well. It'll show up in another trip or two as well, so you'll see it a little more. Obviously a compliant suspension and a rear locker makes a tremendous difference. To contrast, my high school buddies and I made a "dune buggy" out of a '37 Chevy panel truck. We ditched the body, chopped the frame 36", took the center out of spare wheels and welded the rims to another pair of rims for duals, and took it offroading. And promptly got stuck with one wheel hanging in the breeze and spinning madly. The stock rear suspension wouldn't let it drop to the ground, and w/o a locker it was free to spin. Yours truly grabbed the wheel, when it was stopped, and had my buddy let out SLOWLY on the clutch. That was just enough to move the thing forward and get the wheel back on the ground and we could drive again. If we'd have known what we were doing we'd have pulled a leaf or two out of the rear springs, and maybe have welded the diff up. But we had no clue so we had the worst of both worlds - a stiff suspension and an open diff.

I do! I said to myself "wow! good idea for BigBro front view", but... Unfortunately, grill emblem is 7" wide, this cam-emblem is 9". It would be interesting to document the badge/cameras that will fit the 82-86 grilles.

Welcome! Glad you joined. Where's home? We have a map (Bullnose Forum/Member's Map in the menu) and can add you with a city/state or zip. 1988? We don't have many of those represented on here, but there are some. We'll convert you.

Bummer - unless it was to you.

Electrical is probably the only solid thing I brought to the table in terms of prior knowledge in this project. I've done some brake and suspension work but I'm as green as a four leaf clover when it comes to engines/drivetrains/cooling/etc. Most of this stuff I'm making up as I go along, plus knowledge from here, Youtube, etc. But if it has a copper wire in it... I tend to get a little carried away. I'm going to be doing a few things here. I'm not a huge fan of tee harnesses not because they're bad in general but because it's just one less thing to maintain/have corrode under there. I can make these connections hard-wired as proper extensions of the loom, so I may as well. But more important, this is a hunt/camp rig for my wife and I. About 80% of the time it's driven, it's going to have a camper in the bed or towed, plus some "special stuff" like a modular LiFePo4 battery box and charge controller for the camper, Quick Connect power ports for things like water pumps and winches, backup camera, aux lighting, and so on. I'm going to be pulling a new fuselink-protected ACC line from the alternator back to the bumper and to an accessory port near the front of the bed, to plug into the camper and battery box charge controller. I'll also be adding a dedicated electric-brake line and harness to the interior where you'd normally install one. Currently the only trailer I have is a fifth wheel, and I'd never put it on this truck - I haul it with a RAM 2500 and I'm near my limits with that. But I have VERY fond memories of a Jumping Jack trailer I used to own and I've had some thoughts of getting one again. They're cool trailers because you can use them as utility trailers, but they're also a 5x8 canvas tent rig when you want that. They have very high cargo capacities (a 5x8 can carry two UTVs on top), have electric brakes, and are pretty off-road capable (torsion axles). I just love them. It wouldn't shock anybody who knows me if I picked one up again. Anyway, to answer your question, basically replace any "here's a sensible and cost effective option for this electrical hookup" with "what could you do some imagination, beer, the right tools, and your wife unaware of your plan" and you probably have what's going in Rocky You and I think alike, and that can't be good for you. That battery looks good, but where are you going to put it? My aux battery is under the hood in the factory aux battery position, and the two batteries are tied together using a Cole Hersee smart battery isolator. That way the 3G keeps both of them up to snuff but neither can pull the other down - unless I want it to. And ALL of my "small" connections are soldered and covered with adhesive-lined heat shrink, although the "large" connections are crimped with a hydraulic crimper. As I explained to the tech lady at Pormido when discussing splicing their camera cable, I've been soldering my connections for probably 65 of my 75 years, and it works. And, speaking of Pormido, I really like their mirror/camera system, with the exception that they don't have a sealed front camera. But you might be able to use their "front" camera on the inside of the windshield as they intended, and not have to worry about waterproofing it like I am. However, the tech told me this morning that she is going back to the engineers and push for a version with a waterproof front camera. She's following my Installation Of A Pormido 998 Mirror/Camera System thread and now sees the need for it. (And, hopefully, a more elegant way to mount the mirror.)

Bob - Interesting about the trailer. I'd often wondered. But I didn't know those S10 ZR2's were that capable. His really did well compared to the Jeep. Dane - You'll have to tell us how the search for the S10 goes. Don't hesitate to post what you find. As for the t-case whine, Big Blue is rather noisy on the mountain. The headers and Magnaflow's can be heard, but that BW1345 makes the most noise.

The ECU might be of interest to someone that has to pass emissions, but if the truck didn't have CA-specs there will be few people that need it. The accessory mounts are frequently of use to people. Used brake boosters and radiators don't seem to have any interest for anyone. How 'bout the carb? Is it a feedback 2150? Those might be useful. So might the air cleaner.. Beyond that, I doubt anyone will want it.

Good point, Bruce. And I don't have a yellow input.