Gary Lewis

Sorry Gary, saw this after I sold my truck this afternoon. No prob, Dane. Glad you got the truck sold - if that's what you really wanted to do.

Welcome. I just don't want anyone to have more robo calls than they currently have.

Gary, on my side, no problem and have fun! We can also consider it as a tribute to Gaston Lagaffe. In worst case scenario, if somebody complains about using this cartoon to illustrate your huge library (the two creators passed away 15 and 25 years ago), you’ll simply have to take it out. I can put the text you want (Ford Library, Bullnose Library, F-Series Library, or any other title). Just let me know. I’ll send you a better resolution image. Jeff - How about if it just said "Welcome to the Bullnose Library"? Yes, I am creating it, but it is ours, not mine.

Yes, it is good that a little more speed for both the water pump and fan help with the cooling. I really like that. On the alternator, I can test connecting the yellow/white wire directly to the battery, but I'm pretty sure it already is. So I may just put a volt meter on the Y/W wire and see if it is seeing what the ECU is seeing. But I know that the voltage is coming down as I can see it on both the voltmeter from Rocketman and the aftermarket voltmeter that watches the aux battery. Rocketman set the ammeter-converted-to-voltmeter to 14.4v at the top mark and 12.8v on the middle mark, and when I start up it goes almost to the top mark. Plus, the aftermarket meter says we are right on 14v. But after several minutes of running it comes down, just as in that chart. Oh yes, remember that the Sony radio has a voltage readout, and it shows roughly what the ECU is seeing. So the voltage is coming down. And I think it is the set point that is changing. I did some searching about that and found these posts by a couple of guys I think I recognize. One says he's a "Pedant" and the other appears to have something to say about any and every thing. But I still don't know the answer to the question. As for the history of the alternator, if you don't know who does? I got it from you.

Congrat's????

You are now on the map, Michael.

Also, I should have mentioned the battery voltage. It was at 13.5V at the start of that test and down to 13.2V at the end - even with the rising RPM. So it doesn't look to me like electric fans are a good idea for Big Blue. Having said that, BB's battery voltage isn't held very high. At startup it'll go to 14.2V, but after everything warms up it drops to 13.7V. I'm running a soft-start regulator to prevent belt squeal, so I'm wondering if the another regulator would drive the alternator harder at idle. EDIT: Here's a shot showing VBAT, and where the white vertical line is we are at the 8 minute point in the log, with the voltage down to 13.9V. But RPM is at 1800+, so it isn't low revs causing it.

Welcome, Michael! Glad you joined. I like your truck. It looks to be in pretty good shape, straight but with the typical rust in the cab corners and over the rear wheels. But it appears to be well optioned, with power door locks, power windows, A/C, and a locking hood release. We have a map (Bullnose Forum/Member's Map in the menu) and could put you on if you'd like.

Apparently y'all fully agreed with my rationale, which is good because it appears to work. Today I wrote that tune into the ECU and, sure enough, had to pull Fuse 10 to make the ECU forget something. (I made the keep-alive fuse #10 instead of #9, Bill.) But after doing that it started up nicely, although it was again quite lean since the computer had forgotten what it had learned. To test that tune I warmed the engine up and then started data logging. The graph below starts with the ECT @ 196F, the A/C on Max, and the ambient temp at 94F. The vertical white line is at the point where the ECT was 209.488 and the desired RPM was 640. But at the very next data point the desired RPM had gone to 656 and the ECT started climbing, as did the desired RPM. Ultimately the ECT stopped climbing at 225F and the desired RPM was wavering from 784 to 816. At that point I moved the truck to cool the engine down, which you can see in the RPM trace. So I think my settings, above, work well. It looks like ~800 RPM runs the fan fast enough to keep things cool at 94F, but still lets me have a low RPM idle to make coming out on the clutch at a stop easier. And, the desired RPM increases aren't significant enough to cause problems when putt-putting around on a trail.

Rick - And she sure looks nice! Jeff - I love the graphic! Or cartoon? Could I used it at the top of the Manuals & Literature page? There are about 600 web pages on the site, and some of those have several documents on them - many of which go over 100 pages. So I'm going to guess that we have 10,000 pages of documentation on the site. But I have many, many more pages that I'll eventually scan and put on here, so that spreadsheet will get filled out even more over time. For instance, in the 2nd pic above the black binders are the Technical Service Bulletins for all Ford vehicles in NA from the late 70's until the late 90's, and many of them pertain to Bullnose trucks. And that stack of books at the bottom of the pic has lots of Ford instruction workbooks for the technicians, and I'll eventually scan most of them in.

You are right, Rick. It might not have been a mistake. Perhaps it was actually planned and someone pulled the plug on it. Anyway, that's at least one difference between the 1st and 2nd publications for '85. Good to know.

Yes, you can't see what's on the computer, and there I have the 1980 - 89 MPC, the '96 EVTM and FSM, and some other things. Then there's the microfiche copies of the MPC and two viewers. But my MOPAR library just has the Dodge 1969 FSM.

Probably, but I think that's a very limiting decision. It was set up to tow, but you'll only want to tow in the PNW?

I think I'd stay at 15ish and save the driveline.

Bummer on the car being gone. Maybe he can find something. So your engine will be the 2.5, which is a stroked 2.2? But with the DOHC head. How much boost?

We like the details. And some of us have a bit of documentation to help find those details.

Very nice truck! Lots of options, including the tach and underhood light, but no A/C.

Good info on the 302/5.0L, Rick. On the owner's manual, what version/printing do you have? I'm going to guess that it is the first printing as my second printing version, the one we have on here, doesn't have that footnote, as shown below. So maybe they caught that mistake? (I'm not questioning that yours says that. Just trying to figure out what the differences are.)

I would like to know if that part could be purchased separately. If so, I would love one for Lucille. I relocated the oil cap to the rear of the passenger's side valve cover (and moved the PCV valve to the front driver's valve cover) when I added the twin-snorkel air cleaner from a Ford Mustang. It is a pain to add oil with the cap so low and at the back of the engine. Rick - I'm not finding it in the MPC, but I'm probably just missing it. Dane - Could you look to see if yours has a number on it?

Good find, Bill! And I hope your friend has what you need.

Jonathan - Welcome, happy to help. As for instructions, Matt's should be what you need. But if you want more go to the Instructions tab at Documentation/Interior, Steering Columns & Wheels. There you will find both the section from the factory service manual as well as a document that Scott wrote up on the column itself. Matt - Thanks!

Bob - Doesn't look like you'd have had to wait all that long as this, for the early 1985 brochure, says November, 1984 availability:

Wow, that's an excellent offer! Curt - Once he texts or calls you might want to edit the post and take your telephone # out.

Beautiful!

I've always wondered about the 5.0's transition from carburetor to EFI. I've always known that it was 1985, but how exactly that was rolled out, I don't know. Gary, I'm not questioning what you're saying, because a lot of people will say that EFI was optional in 1985 with the 5.0, but I thought Vinny said one time that there were no carbed 5.0's built after February 1985 (Certification label date, not dealer sold date). The end of February would be roughly the middle of the production year. Of course there would have been weeks, months, and probably many months in some places where carbed 5.0 trucks were on the dealer's lots with the EFI 5.0's, so in that sense you'd definitely have options to choose from, at least temporarily. Or, was it an actual option in the 1985 brochure that you could choose one or the other? Splitting hairs here, I know, but I'm curious being a bit of a 5.0 fan boy and all. Where's Lariat Rick?...He might know. The screen grab below is from the 1985 Dealer Facts book, and is all I know: