Gary Lewis

Oh! That makes sense. Thanks!

Thanks, David. I sure am glad that I followed the TSB and mounted that tool box to the floor of the bed and not the sides as it has some serious weight in it. The hand-tool box is all I want to get out of there, and on the same side is the hydraulic jack, 4-way, hose, etc. And on the other side is the recovery gear, which is heavier than the tools. Plus the compressor itself. And then there's the piece of 1" flooring I'm using to reinforce the bottom of the tool box, and it is also heavy. Anyway, this afternoon I turned my attention to the problem of the hood hitting the negative battery post on the starting battery. After a bit of looking I found that the hood was badly adjusted. In both the back and front the passenger's side was down ~1/8". But the hood is bent down in the middle - kind of like what would happen if someone walked on it. That doesn't help to clear the battery, but I'm not going to try to bend the hood back myself. Maybe John Keeline, my paint/body man would know how to do that. So what I did was to raise both the back and the front the 1/8", and I think that got enough clearance with the battery post. The back was very easy to do by loosening the bolts holding the hinge to the firewall and pulling up a bit. But the front was another story altogether as the adjustable bumper was frozen and wouldn't turn. I ended up prying the rubber cap off it and using vise grips on the head. And then I discovered that getting the cap back on was next to impossible. Maybe with three or four hands, but not with two. So I pulled out the NOS ones I got from Vernon. But they aren't the right ones as they are D0VZ 16763-A's and our trucks are supposed to have D3AZ 16758-A's. What's the difference? Besides the obvious length difference, which causes them to hit something, they are 5/16-18 instead of M8-1.25. But that's what they make saws & taps for. About then the tire shop called and said the tires are in, so I'm ready for tomorrow!

I have an endoscope you can use, Brandon.

(I set you up. )

Two steps forward and one backward is still progress.

I agree. Something is going on with the door in the box. Have you pulled the blower motor? You might be able to see something there.

Mid-day report: I got the spare & LF swapped and then I loaded up the recovery gear for the scales tomorrow. And in doing so I remembered that I had a bit of a problem with the tool box holding hand tools sliding into the hose of the compressor, which worried me. So I screwed a stop-block into the 1" floor I have in the bottom of the tool box, as shown on the left below. Then I laid the piece of scrap 1" that I keep for the jack in there and put the hand-tool box on top of that - and it can no longer slide into the compressor. Then I loaded up the hydraulic jack, 4-way, paper towels, and air hose.

I'll bet you are right. The belt alone would probably cost that much.

I wonder to whom.

Nice truck. And $7250 isn't a bad price.

You got it posted. So, what was/is wrong with Betty?

Excellent! Sounds like you have it coming together. I thought that base was steel but wanted to ask. There's the proof that the 351HO air cleaners didn't have the rear trap door like the 460's. And yes, the aluminum ones are fragile. I've seen very few of them that aren't cracked.

Thanks, guys!

I've gone back and forth on that and have landed on not wanting my GPS to be switched with my ignition. It's nice to not have to remember to turn it off when you want it off. But I find I still want it on when I shut the vehicle off pretty frequently. So I always run mine on an always hot circuit now, and have to manually turn it off when I want it off. As they say, your mileage may vary... I thought about that, but went ahead and wired it to the ignition because that was easiest. Turns out that when you turn the ignition off the Garmin says something like "The charging power has been lost, do you want to continue on battery power?" And you are presented with a Yes/No option. So it is easy enough to say "yes" and it'll stay on. Or ignore it and it'll turn off by itself. This evening in prep for the new tires and alignment check on Tuesday I printed out the alignment specs from the '95 factory shop manual since that's where the D60 came from. I'll put that in the documentation folder that stays in the truck, but will give a copy to the tire shop as well. And tomorrow I'll take the LF, which was the spare and is by far the best tire, off and put it in the bed. And put the tire that is now the spare on the LF. Plus I'll put all of the recovery gear in the truck. Then on Tuesday I'll top up the tanks to make sure that I'm weighing it at a known state. Any other suggestions? Oh, by the way, Steve/FoxFord33 came by today and set in the driver's seat. He said "It feels right, much better than before." He's a big guy, so that was a good test.

Got the Garmin wired up today. It comes on with the ignition and I'll connect the audio to the Sony. Need to plan a route and see if it really does give turn-by-turn guidance.

Let us know how the weight aligns with the door tag. It should be considerably lower than the door tag unloaded. Its been a while since I did the scales on mine when I bought flagstone some 20 years ago but I seem to recall it was some where in the neighborhood of 3,800 - 4,000 lbs with a 5,250 gvw. I'll for sure come back with the weight of the truck awa each axle, plus what I decide to run for tire pressure.

That looks great! Is the base steel or aluminum? And the fresh air will certainly help in the summer. Will you have heated air for the winter?

Looking good! And I'll bet that air cleaner turns out well also.

Looks like it is for the Windsor engines, but oddly enough it says it is for 1984 trucks only.

The advert is correct: 1980-82 F-U100/350 - - w/integral A/C or dealer installed A/C with Hi-Low vent. Aka YH-361.

That's a good, if freaky, analogy. I love that song, but the line "We are all just prisoners here of our own device" rings too true.

That's a great offer, Chad. Now that we know the fan and shroud are correct, it is probably either the radiator or clutch. The radiator is a good bet, and if that doesn't solve it you have a clutch available.

Looks like you have the right fan as when I zoom in on the number it appears to be E4TA-MA. Right? (Your pictures sure are small.) On the clutch, I'm not seeing much that would worry me, but again it might be the picture. What are you seeing?

Actually, there are dozens, if not hundreds, of forums on Nabble's servers. So it is a collective issue. I've tried, hard, to move off to our own servers but it hasn't worked.

Bingo!