Gary Lewis

That's an upper hinge. Right? I have three doors, all with no upper hinges. Sorry.

Welcome to the forum! Glad you joined. But you may have missed the email I sent you asking you to go to the New Members Start Here folder, read the guidelines, and then make your first post an introduction there. Not to worry, that's fairly common. But the first reason we do that is to make sure you've had a chance to read the guidelines, which are posted there. We hold everyone to those guidelines so it is important that you read them. Have you? The other reason we do that is because we are a community and want to get to know everyone. So we like to find out a bit about you, including where you live, etc.

There is supposed to be a ground from the engine to the firewall, as shown on our page at Documentation/Electrical/Grounds/Engine To Firewall Ground. Without that there's very little to ground the cab and you will get all sorts of strange symptoms.

Thanks, Bill. Let's see how many other takers we have as I can't get spread much thinner or we will never get some of this documentation on the site. Larry/Ratdude747 - I'm not sure what to make of your comments. Did you volunteer? Are you saying you have done it, but badly? And yes, it may be a means of promotion. But it can also help those who will only use FB. It isn't something that all of the forum members will want to be part of. Maybe not many. But according to my friend that is pushing for it, "if you build it they will come".

Yes, glad you made it through the move. Your Bronco should have the mechanical clutch linkage being an '82, so there's not all that much to go wrong. Just take it apart starting by loosening the adjustment on the part near the release lever going into the clutch itself. As for the folks from France, that really IS a cool rig! And they ship it back and forth to France? I do hope they'll join.

My guess is that you have a bad ground. From the 1986 EVTM, the schematic below shows what circuits use G701, which is behind the left side of the radio on the firewall. And everything you are talking about, and then some, use that ground. So I think that when you bring the blower motor on, meaning not just A/C but Vent or Heater, the voltage on the ground comes up and that is messing up the gauges.

Well done! I should have thought of that.

That was from last November. Today we finished the "something else" trip I mentioned. It turned out to be going to St. Croix State Park, about 100 miles north of here, for a 4 day weekend. Not much of an adventure, but it was a trip, so here it is. It was a pretty laid-back trip, with only a 100 mile drive each way. We met some friends there and did some hiking and biking. It rained on Saturday (which was nice because it broke the heat and humidity we had Thursday and Friday), so we played games in our friend's travel trailer. And after the rain stopped we played some yard games. This was the trip I thought I needed to get the Bronco running for, but I'm glad we didn't bring it. Walking and biking were better ways to get around for what we wanted to do anyway. Not a lot of pictures from this trip, but here are Lesley and I standing on the bank of the St. Croix River. We're standing in Minnesota, and that's Wisconsin on the other side. Playing yard games in the campground: Then on our way out we drove down this dirt road to climb up a fire tower. This is where not having the Bronco was either unfortunate or very fortunate. It would've been less stressful driving the Bronco on this road. But if we had still chosen to do it on the way out (as we did today), we would've been stuck at the end of this dirt road with no way to turn around. It was a challenge with just the motorhome. It wouldn't have happened with the Bronco in tow. So that was that trip. We do have the Utah trip booked, so that will be the next time we drive the motorhome. And I REALLY need to get the Bronco running for THAT trip! Sounds like a very fun, and laid-back, trip. And the Bronco would have been in the way, so all's well that ends well. Now you have time to do it right.

Thanks, Dane. He wanted to pay me but we just got word today that one of the vans is broken that a group of missionaries use there to transport people to the west and food/medical supplies to the east. So I suggested that he give whatever he would have given me to that cause. I was just happy to get to use BB and the trailer to help someone.

That looks good, Cory. I've never done that, so am in awe of those who have.

I'll check tomorrow to see what I might have.

I've been asked by a friend of mine to set up a Facebook page for Bullnose trucks. I'll give you his reasoning in a bit, but first I'd like to know how many of you would be willing to serve as admin's on such a page. And this page would take some admin'ing as we would insist on people adhering to the same guidelines we have here on the forum. That doesn't seem to be the way some of the people on FB operate, so it would take some hands-on work as I'm sure we'll have to ban a few in order to help them understand we mean business. I can't do it myself, so I'd need several of y'all to do it. Yes, I know that we discussed this 2+ years ago and the poll was heavily against doing it. But there were some that saw the benefit and felt it can be managed. And since it doesn't really detract from this forum, the question this time is who is willing to be an admin on the Bullnose Forum or Gary's Garagemahal FB page? (We have both of those names nailed down.) Now, here's some of his reasoning. When I asked "why" he said: I won't tell you who he is, but I will say that he has a successful FB page and it has a very calm and collected group of people on it. So I trust that he knows what he is talking about. But again, I don't have the time to do this by myself so would have to have several people willing to play admin. I see from reading the previous thread that Bill volunteered as did Clifton, so I'll tag them. And Troy has the experience so although he seems to like the forum approach more I'll tag him as well. Anyone?

Scott - The QuickCable site is playing games again as it gives "Page Not Found" for your link. In fact, I'm not even seeing pictures anymore. So do you know what the part # is? Not WHYDTYTT but WHYDWYTT. At church this morning a young man asked me to help him get a Honda from the town to the north to a mechanic's shop in Skiatook. So we got the trailer out of the storage spot - which has ~6" of room on either side to the supports for the carport - by using the hitch on the front of the truck. Then we got it out of the back yard w/o running over the plumbing for the septic system. Then out through the gate in the fence and out to the street where we dropped the trailer from the front and picked it up on the rear hitch. Luckily while the clutch is bad on the Honda it worked well enough to drive on and off the trailer. Then reverse the above procedure to get the trailer back in storage.

Sounds strong! Good plan.

The condenser was just the normal replacement for the truck that you had to space the bottom out a little to make work. Think its for the 87 up trucks? but listed to fit ours. Now on the new evap coil it is a little bigger. When I pulled the old one out it had a rubber spacer that ran top to bottom on the end to the firewall. I pulled it off and was looking to see how I was going to get it to "stick" so I could install the new coil. I then thought I should match the 2 coils up side by side before trying to install and find it would not fit for some reason. That is when I found the new coil was wider the width of the rubber spacer. It is maybe 2" wider but every little bit of more cooling helps. As for cooling I think the pick up cools pretty good compared to my 02 Durango even with rear heat/AC. The Durango is a lot of space to cool down over the pick up cab and both would be sitting out in the sun all day. The other day the Durango said it was over a 100* out side, hotter in the truck, when I got in after work. Dave ---- Big Blue is running a complete 1990 system with the larger compressor, but it still takes a bit to cool down. As I'll explain in WHYDTYTT, a young man at church asked me to help him get a Honda he bought to the mechanic's shop. So we were out in the 103F heat and sunshine quite a while today getting the trailer out, loading the car up, unloading it, and putting the trailer back in its spot. And when we got back in the truck we ran the A/C on Max & high fan for 30 minutes and we didn't get cold. The air was cold, but we weren't.

I've interchanged the late for the early style and didn't really notice a difference. But I've not tried to change out the spring so can't answer that question. Are your hinges broken? Or?

I did also.

Nice! 82/83 F100/350 w/a 300 six — w/leaded fuel and heavy duty air cleaner

Used in both BW and NP transfer cases. Not a bad price either. Good find.

On second thought, or as my 2nd cup of Joe kicks in, there isn't enough meat in the 2.4L sprocket to bore it far enough to take all of the keyway out. And I doubt the 2.5L sprocket would survive if turned down to fit inside. In fact, I don't see how to hold the 2.5L sprocket to turn it down that far as it would spring open and come off the mandrel. So ditch that plan. I'm thinking now that it might work to make a shim that would press fit into the 2.4L sprocket and be held in with Locktite Red. Then put the sprocket in the mill and take out the portion of the shim that is at the keyway. That leaves you with a keyway that is 3.98mm/.157" wide when the keyway on the crank is 4.07mm/.160" wide. It would then be needle-file time. And, the keyway will be too deep and will have to either be filled with epoxy or a special key used. But it also means your keyway is wherever it is on the 2.4L sprocket. Can you live with that?

I've looked at the pics and am a bit confused as to how the pulley/damper attaches, but lets hold that for a bit. My first thought was to turn a 2.5L sprocket down to be the shim as it has the keyway already in it. But the 2.5L sprocket has a keyway that is 4.13mm deep and our shim is only going to be 1.95mm thick. So the 2.5L sprocket would probably fall apart as it was being turned down. Or at least would expand when the cut finally got to the keyway. So what about boring a 2.4L sprocket out to something more than the 2.5L's keyway depth, and then turning a 2.5L sprocket down and pressing that into the 2.4L sprocket with Locktite Red on it? The 2.4L's ID plus keyway depth is 34.81mm so we'd want to bore to something like 35.00mm to take the whole of that narrow keyway out. But that would mean the thickness of the shim above the keyway would only be 2.435 mm, so maybe we'd need to take the 2.4L sprocket out to more like 40mm? What do you think of that approach? If it looks like it'll work can you see what kind of room we have on the 2.4L sprocket to bore it out?

Thanks With everything new it better work good now. Dave ---- I know what you mean. Big Blue's is all essentially new and it worked for a bit but then failed. Turned out it was a bad o-ring and once that was replaced it has been rock solid. However, it is still a 30+ year old system and it doesn't do as well as newer systems. For instance, the blower isn't nearly as powerful so the cold air takes some time to cool things down - especially at our 100+ current temps. But once cooled down it does a good job.

Got your note with the s/s and pics. I'll try to get my head around them tomorrow. But you mentioned 2.5L, 2.5L Turbo, and 2.4L. You are using the 2.4L sprocket on a 2.5L crank. Right? If so, what does the 2.5L Turbo sprocket have to do with it?

It is looking really good! Yes, I can see some of the issues you mentioned, but you found them and can fix them.

Thanks and me too Dave ---- Yes, well done!!