Gary Lewis

I think you have a reasonable plan.

Thanks for sharing that. I'd read that many people have had that problem, so it is really good to know that there is a good gasket for the sliders.

On Dad's truck I welded the worn bits up and ground them back to round. Or used a drill to make the hole the right size. But speaking of size for the holes, since I also bought oilite bushings that are bigger than the plastic bushings I drilled the holes out to take the oilite bushings and used them instead of plastic. I don't remember where I got mine, but Amazon has several.

Subscribed. Glad you got the engine going and that you are finding good body parts. They are hard to come by so you are doing well.

Welcome! Glad you joined. Nice truck. Hope you'll start a thread in the main section or projects where we can follow what you do to and with it. And where's home? I ask because we have a map (Bullnose Forum/Member's Map in the menu) and we can add you with a city/state or zip.

Pulling the hood is a good idea. And pulling the radiator and radiator support is a good idea as well. But I'm not sure about lowering the truck. The reason is that the legs of the engine hoist have to go somewhere and sometimes the legs hit the axle if it is too low.

David! We are really going to miss you. And you will miss Janey's brownies, Mac's BBQ, and maybe even Ron's hamburgers.

Great, Larry.

I think you have it figured out pretty good. As for picture size, I right-clicked your picture and then clicked Copy Image Address, Clicked Insert Image in the menu above and pasted the address into the "Or copy an image from the internet" field, wiping out the "http://" that's already there. After clicking Insert Image I added "width="75%" to the code, as shown below - but w/o the "" before and after the code so you can see it. nabble_img src="2022_85_F-150_EFI_5L_2WD_LWB_Dorman_Connectors_24.jpg" border="0"width="75%"/ But sometimes it is easier to take a screenshot of what you are working with instead of saving the file to one format then another. By taking a screenshot you can capture only the area you want and leave things out you don't want, like the "1" at the bottom. But be careful as Win11 seems to want to save screenshots in png format and they can get large quickly. I prefer jpg.

Didn't have Paint, or at least Search didn't find it, BUT, decided to see what happens in Photos ... and it worked ! (made a Sample and Edited it:) I concur. More progress! Next on the to-do list is a quantity take-off of connectors, or at least as close as one can get. The "Tube" wiring diagram isn't the sharpest in the world for figuring out connectors (and mine may be different as we just saw) so will give it my best guess and get a few extras. Really thinking of going 3/8" throughout but some (about half) of the connectors will have to be 5/16 > 3/8. Onward.... I think the 3/8" line and then the right connectors makes it easier. I used this 5/16 In. Steel To 3/8 In. Nylon connector and these 3/8 In. Steel To 3/8 In. Nylon ones. Obviously they aren't 90 degree, but they make them as well.

I think all of the originals were on cardboard. And there's plenty of room to add sound deadener and insulation up there. Go for it.

Usually just adding bushings and replacing the pins on your hinges does the trick. Kits like these from Summit.

You probably need to adjust the clutch linkage. But it is also probable that your linkage is worn. Go to Driveline/Clutches & Linkage page and then the Clutch Linkage tab, Mechanical tab, and then the Adjustments And R&R tab for the factory shop manual instructions.

The ones I have are cardboard. They seem to hold up fine, but you could easily put a layer of sound deadening and then foam insulation on the inside of the cab before installing the headliner. I used Noico sound deadener and insulation on Big Blue and it seems to have worked well.

Here is a picture of the Reservoir (fuel filter) and the tank switch unit. Unfortunately, the picture is "backwards" from the file picture and I couldn't get it to look like the file picture. Can not figure out how to undo this misrepresented picture so one will hopefully figure it out. In this posted picture the view is of the inside left (driver side) rail. The Reservoir is shown upside down and the Midship fuel tank is shown to the right. Near the tank is the black tank switch unit that can be identified because it has little white "doohickies". Just maybe, the short pieces of tube have right-angle connectors on them in order to install them easier in the short space? Or, maybe the assembly line decided to make a slight change in item locations? Just grasping at straws here. Here's your pic the right way 'round. I just rotated it in Paint. And the issue is that when you take a pic the orientation of the camera is encoded in the metadata of the file. Smart devices, like your phone, re-orient the pic when you open the file. This forum is not smart and doesn't bother to read the metadata. So you have two choices: First, always take the pic with the camera held right-side up, which on my iPhone X is with the On/Off switch up. Or, do as I do and edit my pics to rotate them the way I want them. Anyway, as close as the unit to the back is I think I would use 90 degree connectors like the factory did. It would be a pain to get the stiff Nylon line to give on such short sections like that.

Well, I'm remiss in not getting this out earlier. But the show is on Saturday the 3rd of September, with a dinner the night before for all forum members and guests. Please let me know if you can come and how many will come with you so I can get a handle on how much food we will need. Also, I hope to get a discount at the local hotel/casino in the next day or so and will let y'all know when that happens. The flyer is below but if you'd like to download and print it for use locally here's a link:

John - I don't remember Big Blue having any brackets for the fuel lines. Maybe I'm just not remembering correctly, but ... As for the size of the return, I went with a larger return as I could get a roll of the line that would do both supply and return. Then I found fittings that fit that size line and both sizes of fittings on the truck. On your setup, if you have room I'd go straight in rather than 90 degrees. What you have appears to put pressure on the line and I'd rather not have that. But you'll have to have a bit of the line either side free to move so you can disconnect easily. And I hope the new doctor and the therapist do what you need.

Life has a way of getting between us and our projects. So it isn't surprising that it has taken a while for you to get to this point. But I'm sorry to see that you had an accident along the way, and hope you are healing quickly and nicely. As for the tool's price coming down, that is wonderful! That tool works well, but there is a bit of a learning curve. And a little bit of heat on the end of the Nylon line makes it go a bit easier. And heat shrink is a good idea for color coding the lines. I used the same size for both supply and return and that made it difficult to tell which was which at times. But angled vs straight fittings is surprising. I'm anxious to see what you have found.

Gary, I talked to Jim myself a few years ago, which is why I was aware of them in the first place. Rick and I had the dual snorkel Mustang GT air cleaners on our trucks, and no way could we get decals that fit correctly. No matter what supplier you ordered them from, they would never fit. After more digging at the time, I found out that all of the suppliers were getting there decals from the same place...Osborne Reproductions, and they had a massive catalog at that time with lots of Ford stuff. Anyway, I called Jim and explained that all these decals did not fit correctly, and he went to see a friend that had a couple Foxbody Mustangs so that he could see for himself, and found out that the decals did not fit. He then made a new set, and sent me a couple of them by mail. We (Rick and I) discussed this back in 2019 on here: https://forum.garysgaragemahal.com/Twin-snorkle-air-cleaner-reasonably-priced-tp21952p22067.html In any case, Osborne does a lot of really neat stuff, like various other OEM style decals found in engine bays, etc. While on the topic of decals, in case it isn't commonly known, Phoenix Graphics sells some of the factory style body decals for Bullnose trucks and Broncos, like the Freewheelin' chromatics and the Explorer packaged pickups. https://www.phoenixgraphix.com/ford/1981fwb.php https://www.phoenixgraphix.com/ford/8384fx.php https://www.phoenixgraphix.com/ford/1982fx.php It is good that Jim is that responsive. And those kits from Phoenix Graphix look great.

Thanks for the clarification, Dane. And yes, it takes time to load the 15 pages. Think what it takes for all 154 pages of the full catalog.

Got a note back from Garmin suggesting that I do more testing, including using another cable. I've done that and have determined that the noise is coming from the Montana and just being amplified by the Sony. Here's a video I shot that captures the noise which I sent to them:

I started a new thread in the main section so everyone can see it. It is Jim Osborn Reproductions Bullnose+ Catalog.

Cory pointed out that Jim Osborn Reproductions has a lot of decals, many of which apply (pun intended) to Bullnose trucks. Jeff then reached out to JOR and discovered they have a catalog but no website at the moment. So I downloaded their 174 page catalog, extracted the pages I think apply to our trucks, and OCR'd them so's you can search them. And to do that click the icon in the lower left that says "Full Screen", which opens the catalog in a new browser window. In that you should have a search option. I've left a voice message for JOR that I'm doing this, and as soon as I'm done I'll send them a link to this post via FB Messenger just to make sure they agree with what I've done. EDIT: Just got this back from JOR: "I don’t have a problem with that at all sir. Thank you for that actually."

Jeff - I've downloaded the catalog and am OCR'ing it so people can search it. When done I'll hive off the portion that appears to be Bullnose-oriented and put that on a post here. And I've left Osborn a telephone message to that effect. And when I have it done I'll send them a link to it via FB Messenger.

Thanks! I didn't realize how many one-off, few-year only parts they had. I had to build this one from a 4x2 one ton, which makes it more challenging. Good find, Shaun. I think that AOD crossmember will work.