Gary Lewis

Ok, looks good although I hope you won't need the pinion seal. And obviously you'll only need either the wheel bearing/seal combo or the axle repair kit. Good luck!

You only need the 8835S seals for the axles themselves.

Rene - I took a different approach of cross referencing the Ford part number (E3TZ 1177-A) to other seals and found this Timken site that says it crosses to a Timken 8835S. Lo and behold you have two of those in your cart!

Why would you need anything more than 2 here in Okiehoma? Anyway, glad you got it fixed, and so easily.

Went back to O'Reilly's and met the new, as of this week, manager. And he gave me this jack for the show:

Jeff - The # of trucks each year is very unstable. The 37 trucks we had last year was the most ever, with mid-20's being more normal prior to COVID. But the # of entrants has been growing, so I'm hoping for at least that many this year - especially since I've posted about it on over 20 Facebook pages. As for adjusting on the spot, that's not easy. If we don't have any entrants in a category then we just won't issue that trophy and gifts. However, we will initially allocate the gifts across the full spectrum of classes, and if we have to re-allocate then that could be a problem. John & Scott - We don't have judges. Obviously we could judge the Bullnose era, and Keith could on Bumps & Dents but he doesn't think he'll come. So that basically puts us back to "the crowd". Given that, and the comments about it being, I'm not seeing how we go with the new classes. What am I missing? So, what about this set of classes: Best Engine: Crowd voted Best Interior: Crowd voted Best Modifications: Crowd voted Best Paint: Crowd voted, although if we have John Keeline... Crowd Favorite: Crowd voted Farthest Driven: Jeff is surely gonna be the winner here @ 1500 miles Best Bullnose: Let's pick someone to judge this one that doesn't have a dog in the fight. Maybe Steve Fox? Maybe my paint/body man John Keeline? Thoughts?

Well, that certainly seems to have everything, and then some! Getting the rear cover gasket is a very good idea and I should have mentioned that. You'll need to pull the cover to get the retainers out for the axles. But do you have the right lubricant to refill the axle? And it is ok to get the gasket between the axle tube and the brake backing plate, but you only have one of them in the cart and may need two. But one axle seals you have a whole bunch! Several different kinds. And in at least one case only one of that kind. Don't you want to order two? Then there's the pinion seal. Are you pulling that apart? I wouldn't if there's not a problem. Anyway, that's a lot of parts but with some checking of quantities you may be ready to order.

I've mixed auto and manual transmission driven gears w/o worrying about it. As long as the drive gear has a good mesh with the driven gear I don't think you'll have a problem. I think you said you need 16 teeth, so put that purple one in and I think you'll be happy.

Ok folks, it is getting real - real close. And I have to nail the categories down very quickly as I need to order the trophies. So I've read and re-read all of the comments and then talked to David about this today. And I think that things are starting to emerge from the fog. The screenshot below is an analysis of the 2022 entrants, and I've sorted them by year, applied the F-Series generation # to them, and then looked at three ways of organizing them - assuming 2023 will have roughly the same distribution: By series: That doesn't really work because in the Series % column you can see that many of the series have just one entry. Plus I don't want to have 10% classes. John's Approach: John/Machspeed suggested that we do 48 - 79; 80 - 86; and 90 - 96. But that leaves out several early and late ones, and has almost 2/3's of the entries in one class. Gary's Approach: So, what about doing 1966 & earlier; 1967 - 1972; 1973 - 1979; 1980 - 86, & 1987 and later? That gives a pretty even distribution and allows for very early and very late vehicles. So, what do you think? And PLEASE don't say "It is your show so do it however you want." I'm asking for input as I want it to be our show, and I want it to be fair. On top of those 5 classes I might do a few others, like children's favorite, crowd favorite, best modifications, best 4x4, or? What are your thoughts here? (The idea of having a children's favorite comes from one vendor giving us children's ballot.) HELP, PLEASE! http://www.garysgaragemahal.com/uploads/6/5/8/7/65879365/waving_orig.gif

I don't know the difference between the standard bearings and that repair one. But I found this on the Summit site that says "The product description needs to be updated to note that this is a "repair" bearing to be used with a used axle, not a true axle bearing that's used with a new axle. The "repair" bearing moves the bearings themselves farther out on the shaft and closer towards the weaker (thinner) portion of the axle housing. If one is replacing the axle and towing with the vehicle, this is not the part you want to use." So unless you have a problem with the axle I'd think the standard bearing would be the way to go. However, if you get it apart and then discover you have a problem you should have bought the repair one. So I don't know. But if you go with the regular, non-repair bearings then you need to also order the seals. Other than that I think you have it.

Actually, you got the needed info, which is "810P". That shows up multiple times in parts list #236, and I've highlighted them in the attached file. And so we now know that your rear axle is indeed the right one for your Bronco and you can order parts for it with they expectation they will fit. However, you'll note in that file that right at the top it says to refer to 1177 for seals and 1225 for wheel bearings, meaning that those part numbers are not in that file. So the screenshots below show the right Ford part numbers for the seals and wheel bearings for your axle. But you may find that no one uses the Ford part numbers so you may just go with what someone like Rock Auto says will fit. Parts_List_No_236.pdf

I think the doubler is a good idea. But I don't have a cab.

Just checking...

Testing the idea of having a thread on specific topics within a transformation.

This is a rare pict I found where we see Big Bro’s original instruments cluster: It almost looks black and white picture. Jeff - There's a very significant difference between the before and after pics. You did well. By the way, did you get my email regarding Interac? As said in the email, I can't get it to work for me.

I think you may have to unfold it and take another pic. I say that because I think the info we are looking for is in the upper left, right about where the fold is. I can see the "55" which must be 3.55 gear ratio, and "8 8" which must be the 8.8" pinion size. But the upper left isn't legible to me. Having said that, it is pretty obvious that you have an 8.8" and I'd bet the bearings and seals are all the same. Still, it would be good to nail down what you have to make sure.

Don't know the Moog #'s, but I see them here on the Rock Auto site.

There are two different 8.8" axles, but it really boils down to whether you have a "locking" or "non-locking" differential. The certification label and the tag will both tell. Then I can give you the parts list.

There's not much beyond the stuff in that brake kit you listed and the bearings, seals, and retainers if it is a 9". So we need to determine which rear axle you have - an 8.8" or a 9". The sure fire way is to look at it. The 8.8" has a removable rear cover while the 9" doesn't. And for comfort I'd decode the certification label. Then there's the tag that should be on the axle. Can you send a pic of it?

Vinny! Where you been? Where are you?

I've been worried about you given the storm coming in. Sure glad to see you got the bulk of it done, albeit rough.

Gary, The way to initiate the test, according to my book at least, is to wait until the KOER test is complete and clear, and then you give the accelerator pedal a 1/4 tap, and then the test will start. It's very noticeable when under test...the RPM's ramp up, and the engine misses and shakes as it drops each cylinder out individually. It does each cylinder, about 5 seconds each with about 5 seconds between each test. You'll get a code between 10-80 if it finds a cylinder out of balance, and a code 90 if they're all good;). Thanks. I'll give it a try.

Now that is progress! As for the engine balance test, I don't remember that running on Big Blue. I'll have to go back and run the tests and see if that is one of them.

Rene - I don't remember sending you rear axle parts. Maybe that was someone else? But that kit looks like it would do the trick. Everything you need in one. I didn't check to see that it fits your Bronco, but assume you did. Having said that, there's a chance your brake drums are ok. But you won't know that until you pull everything apart and then it would take time for them to be shipped to you, so getting the whole kit is probably the best approach.

In fact we say «Liters per 100km», or L/100km. In Bullnose scale, 10 mpg = 23.52 L/100km. Thanks for reminding me about that, Gary, I was forgetting this important element! I'll wait for the 16 tooth Driven Gear before monitoring Big Bro's new "Vacuum Ignition Advance" fuel consumption. You will be pleasantly surprised at what a difference vacuum advance makes. And, as Jim said, you should be seeing/feeling an increase in power, mainly under light throttle.