Gary Lewis

Pick - Good suggestions. However, let me see if I understand before charging off to do it. We have the Resources folder, as shown below, and currently have within that the two folders of Electrical and Suspension. You are suggesting a folder for Suppliers and one for Shows - is that right? And within those, if we did it correctly, there would be a topic for, say, LMC. And one for JBG, and one XYZ. And within that topic/thread people would give their experiences with that vendor? Or, would the topics be by the part acquired, like one for dash covers, one for tires, etc? I'm just trying to understand so I set it up correctly.

Bill - I don't understand the question. Sorry, I'm old.

Welcome to the Bullnose Forum! Are you called Pick? Your truck is almost the size of Bill's, although his is a dually. As for the transmission, I'm going to assume that it is the NP435 or T19 with a granny 1st and no overdrive. If you decide to go to an auto you'll have three choices: C6, AOD, or E4OD. The C6 is stout, but it is a gas hog as the torque converter doesn't lock up and there's no overdrive. The AOD wasn't put behind the 351 because initially it wasn't strong enough to stand up to it. But it can be built to do so, and it does lock up and has an overdrive so is much better on fuel than the C6. Then there's the E4OD, which has both the lockup torque converter and overdrive, but requires an expensive computer to run it. On the flooring, I don't remember if any of us here have done a spray-in liner, but I know some guys have and it works well. However, deleting carpet is counter to killing road noise. The floorboard is the place where most of the road noise enters, and the jute padding does a good job of damping that. Then the carpet does a good job of absorbing it. So, just spraying using a liner is going to make it noisy. It might be possible to fully cover the floor with something like Dynamat and then spray a liner on top of it, but I'm not sure that the liner will flex as much as the Dynamat when you step on it. And I don't think the Dynamat will last long without protection, so maybe put a full-length mat over it? I don't know anything about paint or body work up there. Sorry. But, I'm glad you found the paint code. As for the box, I'm not sure what you are asking. But Reamer has a 3D-printed patch for the speaker hole that we've thought about modifying so it would be a catchall. Would that be something like what you are thinking about?

ARS? Anyway, I think the fact that you are seeing the W is due to the cache. And eventually it will show.

The business card has been farmed out to the lady that created the flyer. But the file I gave her is shown below. She's been tasked with giving it an artistic touch, and can add color if she wants. We shall see.

David - Janey said "If you are trying to catch the attention of Ford truck guys you should make the sign however they like it." But, we went back to the lady that'll do the work and here's what we settled on - and they are on order:

Wow! You just saved me. I had "furthest" and it should be "farthest". Thanks!

Hope it works. Gonna be a boring drive w/o a radio.

I'd give you Dad's, but it doesn't work. But I know it is correct for a 1981 Ranger XLT. Anyway, yours looks great - as does the bezel.

You might like this document from Gates on belt matching.

Ok, here's what it looks like now. Only I'll ask her to leave the red squigglies out. Anyway, comments requested.

Good point. But, I doubt I would be able to get Garagemahal on there as that is 11 characters and Skiatook is 8 characters. There's a 25 to 30 character/line max, and we are already at 28 with Skiatook All-Ford Truck Show, so that would push it to 31 characters. So, what about leaving the "All-" off and making it: Furthest Distance Driven Garagemahal Ford Truck Show 2017

That's as close as I can get to rep's on here.

I'm just saying there's no need to go get a track box if this one will work - when the time comes.

I have a jet, spring, and rod box and would be happy to ship it to you - if it'll work. How 'bout you checking the manual for what jets, rods, and springs you are supposed to have and I'll then check the box to see if what it has would work. But, you are right that the valves and vacuum need to be right before setting a carb. And the timing chain as well.

Was it rich at idle before the carb swap? And down on power as well? Looking for cause and effect. Yes, a leak-down will find a bent or burnt valve. And a tick is more likely to be bent than burnt. I take it you have a leak-down tester? Just not a source of air? Cooler weather should be coming, so outside might not be too bad. Oh, and a Carter pump isn't supposed to put out too much for a Carter carb.

Here's what I'm thinking of having engraved on the trophies. What do you think? (The verbiage would be aligned in the center instead of left-aligned as shown below.) I need to get them working on them ASAP, so quick responses would be appreciated. Furthest Distance Driven Skiatook All-Ford Truck Show 2017 Best Paint Skiatook All-Ford Truck Show 2017 Best Engine Skiatook All-Ford Truck Show 2017 Closest To Stock Skiatook All-Ford Truck Show 2017 Best Upgrades Skiatook All-Ford Truck Show 2017 People's Favorite Skiatook All-Ford Truck Show 2017

Yes, a 460 might be construed to be HO, but I think the idea is it is a high-output 460. And Big Blue probably qualifies with an Eddy cam & intake, headers, etc.

Yours has a mechanical fuel pump - right? Rich at idle could be due to high float level caused by too much pressure. But most mechanical pumps don't put out more than 6 psi, which is the max for an Eddy. On the tick, is there any chance you have an exhaust leak?

Good explanation. Thanks. Yes, defrost is good to have. And those doors are buried, deeply. Good luck! What were your observations when going from the Holley to the Edelbrock, and which Eddy? I ask because Jim has just done that on his 460 and his engine is down on power. As for editing, you should be able to click on More/Edit Post and it will pop open that post.

Looks like the chamfered knobs were also used in: 1977 Torino, LTD II, and Thunderbird 1978 Torino & LTD II, the Thunderbird ex the Diamond Jubilee, and the Fiesta 1979 basic Ford cars - IOW not those shown by a different code And before you ask:

I'm sure glad Bill responded as the master parts catalog has nothing on belt routing. But, it it is still an issue my 1985 owner's manual probably does have it.

We can probably (maybe) do that but we need to be careful, we'll look closely when we get there unless you find something before then. I've gotten a response back from the guru with some coding, but I haven't had time to study it yet.

There is no reference to 18A932 in the catalog. That usually comes when some kind person at Ford added it to the Description field of the catalog, but that was infrequent. However, I did find this, which says the 1980-84's had one set of knobs, and the 1985-86's had a different one. And, that the early knob was designed in 1977, so was probably used from 1977 to 1984. And that fits with the D7OA ID number. But, the E5AZ doesn't match with the E0 or E2 number. Perhaps this is a question for Bill/Numberdummy?

Let me see what I can find on belt routing in the catalog.....