Gary Lewis

Jonathan - That helps a lot. I'm going to edit this post to simulate what you did. Ok, I'm now editing the post. And I never have the tabs you have. I'm using Safari and I'm on iOS 10.3.3. So where did the tabs come from? And if I scroll down I don't get the URL showing quite like you do, but it is when I get to the very top line that I get a really small window in which to work. I also see that your keyboard is different than mine. You have more tools showing and the "4" may be the predictive thing. Anyway, that may be taking up a bit more room. In any event, maybe it is something we can look at this weekend?

It'll be 93 degrees here on Saturday for the show. What's winter? 😳

I'm getting lost. I've rotated the pictures to get my head around them. But, I thought you were going to create a list of what you need. What happened to that? Can you create a list of the parts you need? Driver's door: Passenger's door:

Taden - Please don't start a new thread/topic for posts about the same thing. I moved your two new threads/topics into this thread/topic so we can keep all posts about the same thing, meaning your lock problems, together. Anyway, here's Taden's pic of one door beside the illustration. I think what is needed is what is shown in the red oval, meaning the lock cylinder & key combo (21984), the cylinder retainer (22023), and the latch rod retainer (21952). Do you guys agree?

David suggested that I document the previous get-togethers on this forum, so started with the 2016 one here in the Photo Gallery. Obviously it needs some cleanup, like including the pics in-line, but maybe I can get to that tonight/tomorrow, and then snag some of the others. That way I'll have a good place to put the write-up on the 2017 one, that goes down this weekend! Having said that, I could put up a set of pages on the web portion of the site. A downside of that is no one has the opportunity to comment on them as they do in the picture gallery. Thoughts?

Here's the reportback from the 2016 Okie GTG. IT WAS GREAT! So, if you missed it you shouldn't have. Participants included: (if I miss someone, I AM SORRY!) David/1986F150Six, from Sheffield, Alabama Chris/ctubutis from Denver Eli/smokenchoken from Peru, plus his wife, son, and BiL John Keeline, from Skiatook, body/paint man supreme and responsible for the work on Dad's truck Cash/cashman and his friend Cassie, from Tulsa? Paul/Rogue_Wulffe from Sapulpa Beyond talking about Ford trucks, and to some extent boats, we had two projects: Chris' bumper David's gauges, including lighting, cleaning, and painting. The lighting and painting are explained below, but the cleaning was of the circuit board on the tach, which hadn't been working correctly. Fortunately afterward it seems to work well. And, here are some pictures to show some of the participants as well as the work that was done. First, here's David's approach to masking the needles on his gauges. Note the refreshments behind the paint, which was from WhiteGauges.net. And here's a closeup of the fuel gauge before painting: Here's the fuel gauge after painting. Note that it looks like a new needle. And here are all of the gauges after painting: This is Cassie, playing like she's studying: And, this is a rare shot - Chris working. }> He's touching up the bumper with sandpaper before we powder coated it. Here's the bumper with the powder on it before curing. Unfortunately we didn't get an "after" shot before wrapping it for the trip back to Denver, but hopefully Chris will post a pic. And here David and I are wiring up a ballast resistor for the gauge lights. We had replaced the incandescent bulbs with LED's that pull far less current but give many times more light. But, that means the dimmer won't work very well so we added the resistor. And, you may ask, did the LED's work? YES! Here's them on full brilliance, which doesn't seem too bright:

Here's what's going in Dad's: And, by the way, that pic was rotated 90 degrees when I previewed it here, although Photoshop showed it correctly. All I did was to open it and then save it in Photoshop and it fixed it.

Yep. But, I'm a man who follows Christ, and while I'm a Christian that's not my name.

I like it! I've never seen the beveled spot back of the side marker light done that way, but it looks good.

Reviving this thread..... I'm still rounding up swap meet items, and I know Brandon/Bruno2 is as well. In fact, Prashant/khaitan from FTE contacted me and expects to both be here this weekend as well as bring some items to swap/sell. So, back to the question about tagging things. Do things need to be tagged? If so, what needs to be on the tag? Priced?

The A-pillar trim is plastic and ties the windshield and door trim together, but the windshield, door, and back glass trim is metal. No need for pictures then?

Agreed - no eccentric on king pins from what I remember. Good catch on the alternator! A hit on the time to get ready, but what a blessing for the trip. And the pump fits nicely! Congrats. 👍

I have lots more room on my iPhone 6. 2 3 4 5 6 That's with Safari. I'm lost. What iOS are you running?

Welcome to the Bullnose Forum! Chris is right. But maybe later today I can get some pics to show how it was done.

I'm thinking that the running engine can handle it, but it can't when trying to start.

Maybe you have a vacuum leak. David/1986F150Six used the smoke test to find a leak on his. And while his was carb'd I don't think that mattered. I haven't seen it done, but my understanding is that he found a large hose going into the intake manifold or the base of the carb, blocked the top of the carb, and blew smoke from a cigar into the hose. On the second puff smoke came out from somewhere it shouldn't, and he discovered a bad vacuum cap.

Here's what the catalog shows:

I'm not quite sure what you mean. Did you check voltage from each of the two pins of the tail light socket to a known ground? Or just voltage from the pins to the outside shell of the connector? If you didn't have voltage from either pin then you either have a wiring problem or a ground problem. You should try again from the pins to a known-good ground. Perhaps to a long wire run from the battery's ground? That way you can determine if it is a ground problem or a wiring problem. Also, have you checked that the bulbs are good? Like checked for resistance from both solder spots to the shell?

Perfect. Jonathan/Ford F834 may have the parts or I may have the parts. He will be at my house this weekend and we can figure out who has what and then see how best to get them to you if we have them. Or, there's a swap meet here this weekend and we may find them there.

The tail/brake lights should be 1157's, which have two filaments and staggered pins so they can't be put in incorrectly. The one-filament bulbs are 1156's and if I remember correctly they have the pins even with each other as it doesn't matter how they are put in. Another possibility is a bad ground, which do really weird things that boggle the mind. But let's see if the bulbs are good first.

Taden - I thought when you said "I need 21852 and 431A36" that was all you needed. I don't want to go back through all the other posts to figure out what you need as I might miss something, so can you give us a complete list of what you need, meaning the generic part #'s?

That helps a LOT. Because you don't need those items if you have the slide locks, meaning 22168 & 21852. That illustration is for both the 1980 & 81 trucks with the slide locks, and the 1982 to 86 trucks with the pin locks. But you don't use both. So if you have slide locks you don't use pin locks and vice versa.

Assuming that the tail lights don't work either, I'll bet that both bulbs have blown filaments.

Taden - You are going to have to be more specific. Saying "the device that all the bars attach to" doesn't tell us much. Presumably you mean 21812. But, if so you need to say that. We need you to tell us exactly what you need. I'll post the picture below, but am also uploading the picture as . If you will download that, open it with Paint, and circle the part #'s that you need, and then post the picture here we will know. Or, if you just list all the parts you need we will know. But some way we need to know the part #'s you need.

I don't understand "Still no parking light but just on the back". Are you saying that you have parking lights in the front but not in the back? The blinkers and the park lamps use the same bulbs, but different filaments in the bulbs. So just because one filament works doesn't mean the other should. Maybe you have two bad bulbs?