Gary Lewis

Cool! I was just thinking the same thing about cordless tools yesterday. I have a 12v Ridgid right-angle impact, an 18v medium-duty Ridgid impact, and then the “big” 1/2” drive 18v Ridgid impact. While dismantling the huck I keep a 1/4” socket adapter in the 12v with 6mm to 10mm sockets handy, and a 3/8” adapter in the smaller 18v impact with 10mm & 12mm sockets. And then 12mm and up for the 1/2” drive impact. And that combo has been quite effective. Much, much faster than ratchets or end-wrenches.

Sounds like there’s a market for them, Ron. 😉

Yes, Croc, that’s a knife. I mean a cutoff saw. Man, that would hurt! But the little ones are pretty useful. There’s no way a bigger one would have gotten between the lift and the bottom of the fender to get to the bottom fender bolt. The threaded part of the sheet metal nut had twisted off the nut and was stuck to the bolt, which meant the bolt wouldn’t come out. But there was enough room to put the blade of the saw between the head of the bolt and the washer. Problem solved. 😉 As for the time change, I used it well - I slept in. Which was good ‘cause I stayed up late reading EFI documentation.

Ray - As I said in the email, that's a good document and I'd like to put it up on the site as a how-to. Bill - And as I said to you via email, the Ford Fuel Injection documentation is good as well. But apparently I can't put it up on the site w/o running afoul of Ford, so won't even ask. Anyway, I have a lot of reading to do. Glad I have another hour tonight to do so. Nite all!

Yes, the A pillars are different as well. I'll try to remember to take pics of both, side by side, and post them tomorrow. But, I don't think the later ones can be used, although it would be cool if they could be. On Sat, Nov 4, 2017 at 8:26 PM, PetesPonies [via Bullnose Enthusiasts] <redacted_email_address> wrote:

I may have an oval bit for you. But mine goes side-to-side. Is that ok or do you need front-to-rear? Anyway, it is looking good! It takes lots of assembly/disassembly/trim/test/etc to get things right. Will you use plated bolts or stainless? And what will you trim the floor with? As I told Jim on the phone earlier, I'm nursing a ...... scratch where my 3" cutoff wheel got me today, so please be careful - they bite.

I was thinking the vary same thing, wet and no good With the flux broken off has to be better than using coat hangers for welding rod LOL Dave ---- just figured out the quote and smileys Coat hangers? They work really, really well. Used them on my very first welding job - in 1964. We took a '47 Chevy panel truck, pulled the body off, rebuilt the engine, and sectioned the frame 3'. Made a dune buggy. The welds never gave us any problem, in spite of jumping the thing, twisting it, etc.

HELP!!! Ok, I'm down to several things that I need to understand. First, I assume this is the MAP sensor. Right? Second, I also got down to a connector or 10. Yipes! This is complex! How much of this am I going have to retain? Bill, I assume these are the 8-pin color-coded connectors you mentioned. And, that leads me to the last, and maybe most important, request for help. I don't like to launch into something as complex as this w/o documentation. So I'm thinking that I need a book or somesuch. But I haven't been able to find something that tells me how the system works, what each of the wires are, etc. One thought is the 1990 EVYM. It'll at least show what the wires are for, assuming I can find them. But the only one I've found is $69.95, which is more for an EVTM than I'm used to paying. Is that the best approach? I'm happy to buy it if it is, but maybe there's something else that will tell me how EEC-IV (and EEC-V?) works?

I'm going to break this up into at least two posts - an update and a request for HELP. On the update, I got the passenger's fender off yesterday and the driver's fender off today. And, the grille and headlights off, as well as the air box, coolant recovery reservoir, etc - as shown here: And, I in the cab I got the seat out and the seat belts out. But I've not yet taken the steering column out as I wanted to get down to it under the hood so I can easily pull it. But, other than that I'm now down to the wiring harness being the main thing in the cab. But, other than the OD switch, is there anything special about this in-cab harness that I'll need on Dad's truck?

Is it IE or Edge? There's a difference. Edge comes with Win 10, although IE is still available from what I read. Anyway, Chrome has been flakey for me for some time. And just now Facebook on Chrome was so slow as to be unusable. Then I saw that I didn't have sigs showing. Fired up Edge and the sigs popped up. Then FB worked instantly. Think I'll try Edge for a bit.

I forgot - duh! Flareside. Yup, stepchild.

Good plan. Gotta be the regulator. I see your sig perfectly using Microsoft Edge as the browser, but not when using Google's Chrome. So, it isn't you and I don't think there's anything than can be done to make Chrome work.

Wow! That's a lot of rod! But they are probably "wet", so are ruined for arc welding. However with the flux broken off they should work fine for oxy.

Well, at least you have it figured out. On the Bronco tank, you could use one of the coatings, like Eastwood's, but that costs $45 + shipping, so that is an appreciable portion of a new tank.

First, I've just changed my browser allegiance to Edge as with Chrome I can't see your signature, and that information is important. Anyway, I don't know if there is such a thing as too heavy duty of a regulator. But, something sure is wrong. You should never see over about 14.5 volts, and if you continue driving it with higher voltage you'll boil the battery dry and probably blow some bulbs. Since you had the regulator off it is possible that the ground on the regulator is bad. It is supposed to ground to the fender via the two bolts that hold it on. So I'd start there, and if that doesn't do it then I'd take the regulator back.

Perhaps you could post a pic or two as well as say what they are currently on?

Can we just bill it to me? Call me and I'll give them my credit card #.

Yes, but it is a '90 and that stuff is different. I'm not sure of what all the differences are, but one is that the shoulder belt winder is at a different location. However, I can post a pic of the Bullnose one by this one if you want.

Jim - Glad you found the problem. I have the following out/off. Let's see if that's what you want: Driver's seat belts. These things are nasty as the mice have had a good life in the huck, but they look to be good otherwise and will probably was up fine. Pad above radio and glove box. It appears to be fine. Wiper switch and delay box Valance. This has a dent on the passenger's side, as shown below, so I doubt you want to pay the shipping on it. But, that's your call. Is this what you want? Anything else?

Yes, the rear should be 19 gallons. Sorry, I missed that. But, glad you swapped out the locks. And, glad you got Taden what was needed.

That should do it. 👍

Subscribed. But, aren’t they available?

Thanks David, I am disappointed not to use them as they are so nice, but unfortunately an inch too small for the tires I like 😔 In other news I went to work on the truck today and forgot my box of new HVAC parts at home 🙈 Some days are just like that and this was one of them... I did some more testing on the fuel gauge situation and found my gauge pegs quickly to full when I bridge the two sockets on the tank connector so it isn't the gauge. Then I borrowed my dad's multi meter which has 1x ohm sensitivity and checked the sender terminals again. I measured 70 ohms... which is, well, empty. It seems odd that it would be gone as I have only driven 150 miles at the absolute most since filling the tank. That would be horrific mileage for a straight six, but the original carb was running very rich and the exhaust stunk. So before I go any further I'm going to bring a 5 gallon can of gas to it and see if it changes. It could possibly just be empty! Next I pulled off the bent front bumper and bent cross member. I put in the front receiver modified cross member and a better bumper that I had. I finished the pin lock conversion by drilling holes for the pin lock rods and snapping them in. The factory holes are large and slightly elongated, but I found that a well-placed 1/2" hole works fine. Looking good! I like the front receiver- and you will as well. I, again, put the trailer between the lift uprights, and this time did it by myself. Try that backing up. 😉 As for the fuel gauge, you are closing in on the problem. 150 miles on a 14 or 16 gallon tank isn’t unheard of if the choke is on or some other malady exists. And especially if there’s a lot of starting and stopping and cold-startup. On the pin locks, have you changed the locks themselves to the later style? If not, up will be locked and down will be in-locked. (I think we’ve had this conversation, but I’ve slept since then. 🙁)

Yep, but nothing else?