Gary Lewis

The Illustration portion of the master parts catalog also shows an oil slinger - basic # 6310. But the parts list for the 351M & 400 doesn't show one, as you can see from the snippet below where things are listed numerically. My guess is that both the shop manual and the illustrations are generic, meaning they were prepared for any 351M or 400, but that by the 80's that part had been eliminated. So I don't think your engine had one. And you cannot put one in w/o removing the timing cover. So if you have checked the timing chain for slack and it is fine I'd do w/o the slinger. But you don't want to get that close to the timing chain and not check it.

Didn't get a lot done today, but after church and our luncheon I did get the return hoses installed. That 3/8" transmission cooler hose is a TIGHT fit on the 3/8" fittings. I seriously doubt that hose clamps are even needed, but I did install the EFI clamps. However I'd ordered in 15-17mm ones as well as 16-18's and the smaller size fit better so I used them. One thing I like about these clamps is the tongue that completes the circle so there is pressure on the hose all the way around, as shown below. We have errands to run tomorrow so I'm hoping to get everything back together and test it on Tuesday.

It does look like the wiring is ok. But I'm not sure what that means.

X2 But I hope you DID NOT USE plastic line for the oil Over time the plastic dries out and will break spraying oil all over and hope it dose not catch fire. They sell a copper line just for this and that is the way to go with a few loops. Oh yse had a dune buggy that had plastic line. No fire but the mess was not pretty! Dave ---- Hey Dave, I was going to go with a braided line, which I still have. But I did not have the fittings for the back of the sunpro. I need to see if I should either replace the sunpro, or try to find a fitting that will work for the braided. I would rather braid the line TBH. So, all I had was a plastic line as a backup, which I used. It has no loop, but enough slack (I prolly should have put in a loop, but I see this as a temporary fix). The old one leaked at the oil pressure hole because whoever cut that line, cut the plastic line at an angle! My cut was straight.

That's quite a truck. It is a lot like Bill's Darth.

Thank you! That is a very good description of what I remember reading, but couldn't find. And it is all in one place. I'm sure a sketch would help him, and me as well, visualize it. As for strength, I've used Big Blue's 12,000 lb winch several times and had no problems. But all of my pulls have been straight on, which is where the frame is quite strong. So if you are pulling at an angle the 45-degree reinforcements you mentioned would be a big help.

I stopped in for parts when fixing the bucking issue and when I walked in a mon & son were walking out. When I came out they were waiting and the son wanted to talk about the truck. He was 13 and into the older cars & trucks. I had my picture book I take to shows to show them all the work that was done. I told them he should get something he likes that dose not need a lot of work, could get over his head and give up. Build it the way he wants not the way others want him to build it. Also if they had classes at school to take them. Also if he knew anyone that has a shop or works on cars & truck so spend time with them and help when he could as he could learn from them. We talked for about 30 mins. I also told them of car shows around the area and how to look them up. Maybe we will have new blood keeping the old iron going Dave ---- That's neat, Dave. New blood! I really should do a picture book. I have all the pics, but haven't printed any of them. Instead I rely on the info card I've printed to tell everyone what I've done to Big Blue, and that seems to be enough to win "best modifications". (Or maybe it should be "most modifications"? ) But your advice is very sound. Build it your way, but do some research before starting to figure out what "your way" really should be. And join a forum. However, there are forums and then there are forums. Steve Fox/Foxford33 was over yesterday and he was bemoaning the fact that the people in the Jeep Wagoneer forums are the "buy it" rather than "build it" types. He is going with a Ford drive train in his Wagoneer and will need to interface a Ford speedo cable with the Jeep speedo. The Jeep speedo has threads while the Ford cable has the white plastic snap that latches onto the speedo. But it turns out the Jeep speedo has the exact same threads as a Ford speed sensor. But no one in the Jeep Wagoneer forums has figured that out.

That is really nice! A friend of mine is looking for something like that and I passed the link on to him.

:nabble_anim_claps:Well said I even like driving the pick up more than my 02 Durango as I bought it new and did no work to it unlike the pick up, full cab off rebuild. Dave ---- There's another perk that hasn't been said. Everywhere I go in Big Blue I get someone giving me a thumbs-up. And the other night a young lady and her boy friend came by trick-or-treating and she said to her boy friend "This is the guy I told you about with the pickup." I don't get that with my new truck.

That pizza sure does look good! Glad you got the leaks fixed. I've found that many thermostat housings are warped and I flatten them with a file before installing them. That seems to help seal things up. As for the starter, the pictures on Amazon are frequently incorrect. As is that starter!

I've always thought you could make a new crossmember to go right behind the bumper and mount a winch on it. But I've not done any measurements to see if it would work.

I don't think that the factory would have used that much RTV, but it won't be hurting anything. And I like the plan to do everything at once because that'll give you more room.

Interesting. I get different stuff depending on when I click the link, but no Bronco stuff. Oh well, since I don't have a Bronco I guess I'll not worry about it.

Someone on here made or was installing a winch behind the factory bumper. I've not found it, but you might via an "advanced search". I have a front receiver on Big Blue, but that's facilitated by the Warn winch bumper as I mounted the receiver to the bolts that hold the winch on. And those bumpers are made of unobtanium, so I understand why it makes sense to mount the winch behind the bumper.

It really is fun when you get essentially through peeling the onion. I say "essentially through" as there's always something - like the Blue Top box I'm installing now. But I've sure had a lot of fun with it, and know what you are experiencing.

I'm not seeing any Bronco quarter panels. What am I missing?

Bummer about the shoulder. Hope it is well now. On the oil pressure line, glad you found the leak. But do you have a loop in the line so it can flex as the engine rocks?

Do you mean 9F718? If so it is part number E3AZ 9F718-A. Maybe you can find one?

René - The first pic shows the heel of the pinion and I don't think that area is used. So I don't think that's a problem. The second pic is of the side gears and I see the area you are questioning, but it is hard to tell from it if there is a problem. Can you catch anything with your fingernail? Or is it smooth? I'm going to tag Bill to see what he thinks.

The one intake I have uses 5/16-18 threads.

Excellent! But what caused the plug's gap to be closed? Is it too long and hitting the piston?

That looks like a good day's work. As for how much water is left, I always play it safe and assume more water than is usually in there. Since they hold about 16 quarts, meaning 4 gallons, I assume there's a gallon left in the engine. But that usually gives me a rich mix of coolant, meaning more than 50% coolant, so I can add water instead of coolant as the air comes out. Good luck!

Thanks, David. Today I got the screws installed through the steering column and into the lower bearing - with Loctite. Then I got the Borgeson lower steering shaft attached to the steering column's shaft and the Blue Top steering box installed and torqued down. But I didn't get the return hose combo installed. I got it made, meaning three pieces of new oil cooler hose cut and installed on the tee - with the EFI hose clamps. But when I started to install the whole thing I dropped a hose clamp and cannot find it. Unfortunately I'm out of the right size of clamps, so I ordered more and will finish up when they come in. That was late enough in the day that I didn't take any pics, but I did put the truck on the ground and wiggled the steering wheel. THERE IS NO PLAY! Not a single bit of play. And here's the how-to while I'm thinking about it: Lower shaft top end: Install the lower shaft to the shaft coming out of the steering column loosely. That's because you may need to slide it up to get clearance to slide it on the steering box once it is installed. Steering box: This thing is heavy and it was about all I could do to lift it above my head to install it on the frame. I was able to get one bolt in and then swiveled the box to get the others in, but left them loose. Lower shaft installation: While the box is loose and the top of the lower shaft is also loose move things around to get the lower shaft attached to the steering box. And then attach the lower shaft firmly both to the steering column and the box. Pitman arm: Attach the pitman arm to the output shaft of the steering box. This may require turning the tires slightly to align the pitman arm to the output shaft, but don't turn the input shaft to the box as it came pointed straight ahead. Torque: You can now torque the bolts to the box to 70 lb-ft and the nut to the pitman arm to 200 lb-ft.

I think you are using the forum quite well. Yes, you should have the 16.5 gallon midship tank, E5TZ-E. And since it is used for all engines including the EFI'd 302 then it'll have the larger opening, which that sending unit appears to have. So I think that unit would work fine, although you'd want to cap the return line.