Gary Lewis

First, welcome to the Bullnose Forum! As for the problems, let's rewind a bit. Did you have starter problems before the shade tree mechanic worked on it? And did he replace the starter or just the flywheel, clutch, and rear main seal? It sounds like he put the wrong flywheel on, although I wasn't aware that there are different flywheels for the 460. Perhaps someone else does know? Also, the question will come up regarding your location. Perhaps you are close enough to one of us to get help face-to-face.

You are asking Bill, but he said talk to me, so I'll chime in. For whatever reason, it appears that no header manufacturer can get their product to truly fit. I have the Cadillac of headers, L&L's, that cost over $600, and they don't fit. In fact, the driver's side header is against the frame on Big Blue. So, when you give the engine some gas and it torques to the right the header comes off the frame - until you let off and it slams back against the frame. I don't know that ALL headers don't fit, but I've read too many stories about them not fitting that I'm starting to believe that's the case. However, other than hitting the frame, mine are fine. L&L's have a very thick 1/2" flange, and that seems to cure the perennial leakage problem that most headers have. And I don't have a problem getting to the starter with them either.

Bill - Wasn't aware that some of the EGR adapters were aluminum. We will check this one over - probably as we are pulling it. Thanks for the tip. Mark - Yes, the NP435 has brass synchros, as do most manual transmissions. But this page on Mobil 1 75W-90 says: And since brass is an alloy of copper and zinc, you should be good to go.

Yes, basically the same tranny. Different gear ratios and different case to accommodate the different bell housing bolt pattern, but still the "42". Synchros appear to be a weak point on these. They are a truck transmission and weren't designed to speed shift. And they were designed for Type H ATF, which is explained on the Evolving Specifications tab on the Specifications/Lubricants page. You didn't say which Amsoil ATF you used, but they recommend any of their three ATF's for the ZF5, as shown here on the transmission tab. Apparently they all meet or exceed the Type H spec.

Sorry, I missed this in the flurry of activity yesterday and today. But I don't think the problem is throttle linkage. If it runs well until almost floored then either it is running out of gas or it has an ignition problem. So let me ask a question or two. First, is it RPM dependent? In other words, does it stumble at the same RPM and throttle combination? Or, does it only stumble in a specific gear when it is really winding up? And, what transmission do you have? I think it is a C6 auto, but you are posting from email and your signature doesn't come through - assuming you have one. If it is an ignition problem it should stumble at roughly the same throttle opening regardless of RPM. But if it is stumbling at the same high RPM then it is more likely to be running out of fuel.

I own a stick welder, but it is near Bill in Lower Slower Delaware with a guy that borrowed it many years ago. When we moved I told him to keep it as the MIG works well. But Scott thinks that this would be a good application for TIG. So, I may let him show me how to do it.

There are vacuum lines everywhere, with thermal switches and check valves, etc. And everything has connections, with the attendant chance to leak. And the valves, switches, etc can leak as well. So, I'm thinking he has a choice to make. Either we pull the carb and go through it, pull the EGR valve and clean it, and replace many/most/all of the vacuum lines, or we gently remove all of that and add back the one vacuum line he needs - vacuum advance. (He has an NP435 and 78's had no vacuum to the heater.) Tuck the vacuum harness and EGR valve away and he can return it to stock if he needs to at a later date. And, if those engines were lean from the factory then it might be about right w/o the EGR. But at least we'd know if that solves the problem. Oh yes, I heard a noise coming from the carb today that I've never heard. It was a grumble sound, and it happened at really low idle. I am sure it was from the carb as both of us put a hose to our ear and listened to find it. And it went away if the idle came up to above 600 RPM. But below that there was this weird sound. Could it be exhaust? Might that confirm that the EGR valve isn't fully closing?

Sorry, 1978 emissions. We haven’t done any more troubleshooting, like propane or carb cleaner. We were running out of time, and then the thunder came so we quit.

I think you have the speedo gears figured out. Should work perfectly. On the transmission, isn't it amazing how hard they are to clean? The aluminum castings really seem to suck up the dirt and grease.

We got Scott's truck going today, but it wouldn't idle as well as I thought it should so I checked the idle screw - 8 1/4 turns out on the passenger's side and 6 1/4 out on the driver's side. Turned them in to seat them and then out 2 1/2 to start and it would barely run. Wound up at 7 and 7 for a decent idle but still only 17" of vacuum. I'm guessing he has a bad vacuum line somewhere or the EGR valve is leaking. We tested the valve and it moves with vacuum and even holds vacuum, but maybe it isn't closing completely? The truck has all of the 1987 emissions stuff on it, and it is a 351M w/a 2150. Thoughts?

Scott, who runs a welding supply shop in Tulsa, said that if we turn the hub down so we have at least an 1/8" of the bottom hub showing it'll be easy to weld it. Then he said "Remind me what welder you have? Oh, we've not gotten you a TIG yet?"

No hurry at all.

Both of those engines look GOOD! Well done, guys. Bill - Are you going to send me the stripped upper plenum? No hurry, but seeing that one reminded me.

The regulator installation looks good. But I'm confused about the dash lights going. As you can see from the schematics on pages 39 and 40 in the 1981 EVTM, the headlights and side marker lamps should both be on when the headlights are on. And Page 54 gives you the dash lights. Looks like the switch has to be faulty.

Wow! That looks great! Maybe even the same color as my two trannies and t-case. What paint did you use?

I'm happy to scan whatever you want. You can see what literature I have in that section of the website. And, it is easy to do it be bits and pieces. Plus, I can work on the part number bit if you tell me what ones you are looking for.

I don't remember either. But, maybe it'll work this time?

Scott will be over in a few minutes and I'll ask him what he thinks about welding that.

That would help to know what other options are. Thanks, Bill. But, welding to the C2 pulley would be easier than to the Sag. The plastic would melt off and you'd have clear access to the hub.

That "jewel" is the adapter we made for the throttle bracket? As for the bolts, the term is "place bolt".

Glad you did. How far have you gotten?

Good thinking, Jim. I like all of those ideas. My only concern is how much room or accessibility there is on the back of the pulley to do the welding. Unfortunately I've packed my pulleys away. Jonathan - Can you post a pic of the back of your Sag pulley? Maybe from an angle to see the room available?

That's true, Jonathan. And, the Sag has a larger shaft as well. So perhaps the extra space could be done that way.

Jim - I'm not sure I understand. I think you are suggesting welding a piece to the hub of the Saginaw pulley to move the whole pulley forward. Right? That could work. A piece of material could be welded to the back of the pulley and then chucked in the lathe and bored out to match the original bore. Good idea!