Gary Lewis

Thanks, guys. Got a bit more done today. Fixed the wiring error to the brake controller. Turns out it does make a difference where you tap into the light green brake wire. I originally tapped in on the speed control side of the clutch switch, as shown below. And when I pushed in the clutch w/o the brake sometimes the trailer's brakes came on. Apparently the speed control module back-fed just enough voltage that the brake controller came on. Plus, if you hit the clutch while on the brake the trailer brakes should quit. I moved it today. And I connected the winch with the jumper cable, and it works perfectly. Then I turned Big Blue around and set up the hitch to get the trailer level. The range of adjustment was one of the reasons I went with this trailer as most others had far less range. Another thing to notice in this pic is the sliver of light between the trailer's coupler and the draw bar. Initially there was absolutely no clearance, but with a flap wheel I finally got 1/16". And, here's how close to level the trailer is. Obviously that will change with load, but Big Blue doesn't sit down much at all with a load on him, so it won't change much.

This user has been banned from the Bullnose Forum.

Wow!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! $22,500.00 DOLLARS! That's a pretty truck and it sure is clean, but that's a lot of money. Obviously I hope they get it, but did I mention that $22,500 is a lot of money? Is this truck clean enough to add to the picture gallery?

Added the last of Vinny's recent TSB's: 4.9L Exhaust Manifold Warping. This one is also OCR'd so Google will index it this evening and it should then be easily found. Also, I updated the Documentation thread with the books I got in today from Mark/Dyn Blin (thanks again, Mark!) and the microfiche I ordered because of a link that David/1986F150Six sent me (thanks to you, David). And, I included some cross-reference books/catalogs that Bill/Numberdummy brought me last fall. However, that leads me to something I recently added to the Documentation thread: "Note that this is not a list of documentation that is available to check out or share. Instead, it is intended to give us an idea who might be able to answer a question when it comes up - when asked by an active member of this forum." I added that because we aren't offering to give people the documentation as that would not be legal. Instead, we are offering to answer questions with the documentation. Further, my offer is to you, the members of this forum. I simply do not have the hours in the day to help everyone, so am limiting my offer to "active" members of this forum. But you can make your own call on whom you help.

There's a smart man! And, he kept the receipts! I'll bet that living room looks good. And, I'll bet the light switch fixes the problem.

The winch wiring is done. I drilled and tapped the receiver to take 1/4-20 screws and mounted the truck's connector, as shown below: And Scott brought me 20' of 2/0 welding cable last night (THANK YOU, SCOTT!!), so I got the extension cable made today. Here's one of the connectors after crimping with my 16 ton crimper. And, by the way, there's plenty of dielectric grease inside, and then the crimps were all protected with adhesive-lined shrink tubing. And, here's the extension cable: Then I installed the pigtail on the winch: And, with the spare tire on the connector is held pretty tightly so it won't bounce: But, the jumper cable can still be connected quite easily: Now all I have to do to get ready is rewire the brake controller () and load up. Oh, I forgot - and install the new shackle on the winch line when it comes in.

Yes, it is possible. On Page 29 you can see that the R/LB wire goes to the TFI module. So if it were connected to a ground or some huge load that the ignition switch can't support then that could cause it.

Hope you don't get too much snow. We need the moisture, but it seems to be going well north of us and it'll be 56F this afternoon with a bit of sun. So I hope to get my winch wiring done. Anyway, take care. And don't worry, I'm sure it is a simple problem. You just have to track it down.

Did you have the key in Start while you shifted between gears? (Be very careful there.) If so, then even if the registration is off between the shift lever and the transmission itself you should have at least passed through Neutral and it should have cranked. Now you need to do that testing I was talking about. I'd start with the R/LB wire at the transmission. Disconnect the wiring from the transmission and put the red wire of your meter to one of the pins and the black wire on a good ground. Put the meter on the 20 volt scale and turn the key to Start. You should see 12v, but if not you may have gotten the wrong pin, so use the other pin in that connector and you should see power. If you don't see power/12v on either pin when in Start then the problem is between there and the ignition switch. If you do see power/12v on a pin then the problem may be downstream from there. But it may also be in the transmission switch. So jumper between the two pins and see if it will crank - but watch what gear you are in as there's now no neutral safety switch.

No, not yet. That's to find bad connections. You probably have a disconnection or maybe you don't the tranny truly in Park or Neutral.

Yes, AOD is the tranny. But C6 will have the same connections. You need to use pages 29 and 30 here (1986 EVTM/Start) and use your volt meter to find the problem. The R/LB wire comes from the ignition switch on Page 29 and goes to Page 30 via the blue M triangle. Then it goes through the neutral safety switch and back to Page 29 via M. However, if you don't have the truck in neutral or Park it won't crank.

Good! But, are you asking me what the next problem will be? Or, how to troubleshoot the problem?

You should be able to force it to crank by connecting a small jumper from the hot terminal on the starter solenoid/relay to the small terminal that should have a red/light blue wire on it. Remove the r/lb wire and jumper to that terminal and the engine should crank - but don't be standing in front of the truck!

A very similar problem has been reported on FTE twice, 1/26 and 2/28, by "Marty Twombly"with no response from "him" since the original posts. And, since user Tannim has an email address of Twomblymarty@gmail.com I'm going to leap to the conclusion that s/he is the same individual. Therefore, in 24 hours I will ban Tannim from this forum and remove the post if we don't have an apology. And, in that case y'all can email him your appreciation of his post.

You are making good progress. The timing pointer isn't shown in the illustrations in the catalog. But I do believe it is on the passenger's side and under two bolts of the timing cover. But I'm not sure it needs to be painted to stand out. It really just masks the light from the timing gun, and it is the harmonic balancer and its marks that you need to see. Or, is my remembrance of the pointer on a W wrong?

Sorry. He and his posts are gone. But I don't know how he got in.

Added a couple more of Vinny's TSB's tonight: EEC-IV TSB's: This is a summary of all the TSB's for the 1983 - 87 vehicles using the EEC-IV system. This is a 26 page document that has seemingly every symptom you can imagine, a brief description of the fix, and the TSB # for the complete fix. Radio Ignition Noise: Were you aware that Ford had a multi-spark ignition module for 1984 - 86 4.9L engines? Check this out. And, by the way, apparently "if you build it they will come" is correct. In the previous post, which was yesterday, I'd just created the page on EEC-IV Diagnostics. And in the last 24 hours that page has been viewed 95 times.

Who was looking for the air inlet pieces? This one looks to have them.

And since brass is an alloy of copper and zinc, you should be good to go. That [Mobil 1 75W90] is what we put in my transmission at the GTG a couple of years ago and everything is still fine! Good to know, David. Thanks. As for what I did to my truck today, I cut the winch power leads and installed the 350 amp connectors. Tomorrow I plan to drill and tap the receiver right where the right/vehicle connector is and secure it there with two 1/4-20 SHCS's. Unfortunately the 2/0 that I have doesn't appear to be long enough so I have a text into Scott to see if he carries 2/0 welding cable. And when I get the cable, from wherever that is, I'll crimp on the other two connectors and be in business. Oh, and those 4 bolt heads you see are the new 10x1.5mm 10.9's I got the other day. I had 3/8" bolts in there, but was afraid I'd forget at some point and try to mount the winch with them. So I replaced them with the actual bolts that'll hold the winch in when the time comes to move it back over.

First, welcome to the Bullnose Forum! As for the problems, let's rewind a bit. Did you have starter problems before the shade tree mechanic worked on it? And did he replace the starter or just the flywheel, clutch, and rear main seal? It sounds like he put the wrong flywheel on, although I wasn't aware that there are different flywheels for the 460. Perhaps someone else does know? Also, the question will come up regarding your location. Perhaps you are close enough to one of us to get help face-to-face.

You are asking Bill, but he said talk to me, so I'll chime in. For whatever reason, it appears that no header manufacturer can get their product to truly fit. I have the Cadillac of headers, L&L's, that cost over $600, and they don't fit. In fact, the driver's side header is against the frame on Big Blue. So, when you give the engine some gas and it torques to the right the header comes off the frame - until you let off and it slams back against the frame. I don't know that ALL headers don't fit, but I've read too many stories about them not fitting that I'm starting to believe that's the case. However, other than hitting the frame, mine are fine. L&L's have a very thick 1/2" flange, and that seems to cure the perennial leakage problem that most headers have. And I don't have a problem getting to the starter with them either.

Bill - Wasn't aware that some of the EGR adapters were aluminum. We will check this one over - probably as we are pulling it. Thanks for the tip. Mark - Yes, the NP435 has brass synchros, as do most manual transmissions. But this page on Mobil 1 75W-90 says: And since brass is an alloy of copper and zinc, you should be good to go.

Yes, basically the same tranny. Different gear ratios and different case to accommodate the different bell housing bolt pattern, but still the "42". Synchros appear to be a weak point on these. They are a truck transmission and weren't designed to speed shift. And they were designed for Type H ATF, which is explained on the Evolving Specifications tab on the Specifications/Lubricants page. You didn't say which Amsoil ATF you used, but they recommend any of their three ATF's for the ZF5, as shown here on the transmission tab. Apparently they all meet or exceed the Type H spec.

Sorry, I missed this in the flurry of activity yesterday and today. But I don't think the problem is throttle linkage. If it runs well until almost floored then either it is running out of gas or it has an ignition problem. So let me ask a question or two. First, is it RPM dependent? In other words, does it stumble at the same RPM and throttle combination? Or, does it only stumble in a specific gear when it is really winding up? And, what transmission do you have? I think it is a C6 auto, but you are posting from email and your signature doesn't come through - assuming you have one. If it is an ignition problem it should stumble at roughly the same throttle opening regardless of RPM. But if it is stumbling at the same high RPM then it is more likely to be running out of fuel.

I own a stick welder, but it is near Bill in Lower Slower Delaware with a guy that borrowed it many years ago. When we moved I told him to keep it as the MIG works well. But Scott thinks that this would be a good application for TIG. So, I may let him show me how to do it.