Gary Lewis

Wow! How much of this are you doing at present? Or, is this in the past? Much of it sounds like Ford stuff, so the various manufacturers were basically doing the same things at the same time. So, where are you with the project? And, tell us more about the engine.

I know "the owner" and he's a laid-back kind of guy. Go for it. But, maybe not in Steve's thread in case he doesn't want them in here?

Wow! 42? The catalog says that carb was probably E1TE-BGA and would have come from the factory with 53's in it. Is there a tag on it? I know that they had to jet the carbs richer to compensate for the exhaust gas that came in via the EGR valve, so it is reasonable to jet them leaner w/o EGR - which had been taken off of Dad's engine at some point. But down to 42's?!?! That seems extreme.

I'll check tomorrow and let you know.

That's progress, and as Jim says, progress is good.

The unit I have connects nicely with the 80-86 cable.

Good luck!

I'm going with poly on Dad's truck, and Big Blue already has poly. Supposedly gives a stiffer ride and better handling, but BB is an F250HD so it's gonna have a stiff ride whatever bushings are used.

The spacer is part of the manifold.

More work on Scott's '78 today. Pulled the EGR valve and it was completely plugged with carbon. The valve wasn't seating, but it is hard to believe that much exhaust gas could get through there. However, we put a new gasket on made of a pop can and re-installed the EGR valve. And, we cleaned up the vacuum line situation. Now he has ported vacuum to the vacuum advance, and manifold vacuum to the air cleaner - and that's it. Along the way we found some bad vacuum caps and a probable vacuum leak where the vacuum tree connects into the intake manifold. Shot brake cleaner everywhere and no change in the idle speed, so we think we have it sealed up tight. Plus, we replaced the pickup in the distributor. The insulation inside and outside of the distributor on the pickup's wires was literally falling off. Checked the vacuum advance for working properly, and lubed the distributor. And bumped the timing up to 10 BTDC. With all that done we got a good idle at 3 1/2 turns open on the mixture screws, and it pulls 17" of vacuum at 650 RPM. But, the carb still gurgles at times. It comes and goes, but sounds like someone gargling or nuts and bolts being shaken in a coffee can. I'm guessing that there are problems inside so we'll put a kit in it sometime in the future.

Hopefully it is still cold enough up there for things to gell, and quickly. Would love to have you come! There is a lot of good camping at the lake, and it is a beautiful lake. As for the transportation mode, either works.

It is because of toe-in. When you back up the tires are trying to get farther and farther away from each other and they wind up on the inside edges. That causes the tops to pitch in.

I'd not personally gone through that carb, and if Dad did it was years and years ago. But you are making good progress.

What material are the bushing made of? Probably something soft, so turning them down wouldn't be too hard. You'd have to have a tapered shaft for the bushing to be pressed onto, lightly, and then run that shaft between centers on the lathe. Once the bushing OD is turned down you'd press it off and chuck it in the lathe to bore it out to the correct OD. But, you have to find the right bushing material and I have no idea what that is.

The pink/black H wire tested OUT of the relay went to 12v. The HP pump continues to engage as I can hear it, but the in-tank fuel pump makes no sound and is not putting forth any fuel. It still measure at 0 volts with red/blue start wire detached/attached from the solenoid. Not sure how to engage the inertia switch. I jiggled the trigger at the top of it and depressed it a few times. Never felt it engage, but my oil light now comes on. It wasn't coming on before. The inertia switch is before the high pressure, in-line pump. So if you are getting that pump to come on then you have power back that far. And, as has been said, since both pumps run off the same circuit then you have a wiring issue between the high pressure and the in-tank pump.

That's a good tip, Ray:

Gary - In the first test measuring volts on the red wire, I had 12 v. On the second test with my meter on the tan/gr d wire, I had 26 volts and when trying to start it dropped to 0 volts. Disregard the 26v as that has to have been an EMF spike. So the computer is closing the relay. Now test the p/bk wire out of the relay. It should go to 12v in Start. If it does and the pumps don't run check the inertia switch just above the passenger's feet. It may be tripped.

Interesting information. My fuel gauge is reading as full, but I know there;s only about 3/4 of a tank. It is possible the pump is stuck from sitting. I do not know how to bypass the resistance wire. I'll look in my manual to see which wire that is, but how do I bypass it. Bill - I'm quite sure that AllData is wrong. See below - it is a 1.000 ohm resistor and only used in the Bronco - according the a 1986 EVTM I acquired from a friend of mine. Steve - It is now time to check the fuel pump relay to see if it is getting power. The easy thing to do is to put your hand on it and turn the key to Start - if your arms are long enough or if you have a helper. If not, put your meter on the red wire of the relay and it should have 12v. Put your meter on the t/lg wire and it should have 12v until you turn the key to Start and then it should go to about 1 volt.

Steve - I'm confused. The EVTM shows connector C120 as having the fuel pump wires in it, but not the start wire going to the neutral safety switch. And it shows C121 as having the start wires going to the neutral safety switch but not the fuel pump wires. So, are you sure that the connector you found has both fuel pump (pk/bk) and start wires (r/lb) in it? But, moving on to the testing, the complicating factor here is the computer. At the bottom of Page 106 there's a description of when the computer (ECA) is to pull in the fuel pump relay. But, it doesn't really say that it will pull in the relay when the key is in Run. And I don't think it does pull in the relay until the engine is spinning. So I think what is happening is that the ECA is powering both pumps briefly when you turn the key on just to bring up pressure in the system, and then waiting until you crank the engine by turning the key to Start. If you pull the little red/light blue wire off the starter solenoid/relay you should be able to turn the key to Start w/o spinning the engine. And while the key is in Start you should have power to both pumps. If not you need to see if the relay is being pulled in, but let's try this first.

Added the TSB 88-05-14 for Low Oil Pressure. One of Ford's "better ideas". Thanks, Dyn.

We went out to look at campgrounds today. Here's a map showing the options in the area, and we visted two - Stoney Ridge, circled in yellow, and Tall Chief, circled in green. Stoney Ridge is 3 miles/5 minutes from the site of the show, and Tall Chief is 9 miles/14 minutes from the show. Our first stop was Stoney Ridge Campground. Unfortunately we weren't all that impressed as there are several RV's that look to be there permanently. And the camp sites are close together. However, it would be acceptable for us as it is close to the show. Here's a shot from there: Then we went on to Tall Chief Cove. But, it wasn't open yet for the year, so we didn't get pictures. However, this link has pictures. In any event, we've been out there before and think it is a bit more representative of the Oklahoma countryside. However, I don't think we can reserve camp sites at a US Army Corps of Engineers site. But, you can book through their website.

Way to go!

Added a TSB for the EMISSIONS MAINTENANCE WARNING MODULE. It is actually TSB 89-22-08 EMW/IMS Applications, and is on the page TSB's/EMW Module.

Mark/Dyn Blin emailed me with some links to information about the inferred mileage module as well as the emissions maintenance warning module. And, one of those links led to TSB 89-22-08 EMW/IMS Applications, which is now included on the page TSB's/Emissions Maintenance Warning Module. Have a look and see what its info does to/for this discussion. Thanks, Mark!

Perfect!