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Gary Lewis

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Everything posted by Gary Lewis

  1. Added your name, but check to see that the comment is adequate. I can always change it - for any of you.
  2. I've created a new thread: Resources/Willing To Help. As it explains, the idea is to help an active fellow Bullnose Forum member by checking something out for him/her that requires boots on the ground. Note the use of the term "active". I don't know how to quantify that, but my intent is to suggest that just because someone becomes a member doesn't mean that we should drop everything and go check something out for them on their first day. But it is up to each volunteer to determine what "active" means to them. In any event, if you are interested in helping please respond in that thread and I'll add your name and details in the first post.
  3. I've put the topic up in Resources/Willing To Help. See what you think. And I'll start a new thread telling people about it.
  4. Member's Map From time to time active Bullnose Forum members may come up with the need to have someone on the ground to check something out for them. For instance, looking at a truck that has been advertised on eBay or Craigslist. The following members have said they are willing to help, as their time permits, if the item is close enough to them. Having said that, it should be remembered that honoring any such request will be taking their time as well as fuel, so it would be appropriate to ask if you can reimburse them. And before you ask you should look at their location with respect to the item and determine how far away it is from them. In any event, click on the name and send them an email via the Nabble system if you think you need their help. Canada: Saskatchewan Ray/NotEnoughTrucks: My area is Melville, (smallest city in Saskatchewan). Eastern edge of Saskatchewan. United States Arizona Jonathan/Ford F834: Northern Arizona area, meaning Flagstaff, Prescott, Sedona and surrounding areas. Colorado Nathaniel/fords4life: Greeley, CO Oklahoma Gary Lewis: I'm in Skiatook, which is north of Tulsa but can do the Tulsa area. Virginia JMUBullnose: Northern VA area Bill/85lebaront2: Eastern Shore of VA. Exmore on US 13 at the Accomack County line.
  5. It would be good to document the differences. That way when someone asks in future we'll have the answer.
  6. That dent did hurt when I found it but as you said best now and not when I was putting the paint on. I too was worried about the pin & bushing fitment but I had a hard time trying to turn the spindle. So much so I was thinking if I left it and got the truck on the road the wheels would not come back to center if you were in a turn and let go of the wheel. When I road tested the truck before I bought it I did not know the pins were frozen. I let go of the wheel and it did not re-center and almost ended up in a ditch! Other than honing of the bushings like I did I would have had to buy a new set and find another machine shop, few of them around here, or tell them how to do their job and at $100 for pin kit and $75 for the machine work that was not going to happen. I guess you can say I think I took the lesser of the 2 evils? Once on the road I will keep an eye on them and if they get too bad either replace them or find a newer front suspension that uses ball joints. Then I could also go with DJM drop beams. Dave ---- Dave - That sounds like a good plan. As for what I did, Big Blue now has an adjustable driver's side headlight and a horn that works. The problem with the headlight was that two of the three Nylon pads were gone so it was the metal of the headlight bucket to the metal of the radiator support. And since both were a bit rusty there was no sliding. I have spare pads so replaced the two missing ones. And, I lubricated them as well as all of the screws with aluminum anti-seize. That way nothing is going to seize and the bucket rotates easily during adjustment. And, while I was in there I pulled the horn, which has been anemic. (We pulled up at the Pizza Hut drive through the other day and no one was manning it. So I tried honking the horn and it was so pathetic no one came. ) With the auxiliary battery you can't get the horn out except through one of the holes in the radiator support just below the headlight. So, in spite of the temp being right at freezing I decided today was the day. I originally thought I'd use one of the horns from Huck, but it turns out the bracket on Big Blue's horn has a right angle in it that none of my spare horns have, so they won't work. So I squirted ignition drying spray into the horn and tried it a few times. After the liquid finally got to the points the horn started working quite well, and I put it back in. Later tonight I'll finish adjusting the headlights and Big Blue will be ready for the outing on Tuesday.
  7. 80/ U150 (RH) D8TZ 9843000-A (LH) D8TZ 9843001-A Check Rear Counter for NOS parts.
  8. I’ll get the part numbers later today. If you don’t see anything this evening, remind me.
  9. Ouch! The dent hurts. But at least you found it before you painted it. As for the bushings, does the pin still fit nicely after honing? My worry would be that you may make them too large just to get the two to align. But if the pin fits nicely then perhaps not. All in all, it seems like it is six steps forward and three backward. The back-steps always happen, but to have three happen in one go has to be rough. Hang in there!
  10. Ray - I'll put up a topic in Resources this afternoon/evening with your info and mine, and others can chime in if/when they want. Thanks. (Afternoon is my hoped-for time for this, but it all depends on how things go fixing the headlight bucket on Big Blue, which is a necessity.)
  11. Gary, on another forum I am on they have "can you help" area, bigger forum so why it's own area. Anyway you can ask other members that might be close to the car/truck if they can look it over, take pictures and give back the information gathered. Cant always trust the seller and think it works pretty good. On here I guess you could just post up help needed and the state / city and see if you get any bites? Dave G. Yes, we are small enough that approach would work fairly well. However, we don't know where everyone is so don't really know whom to ask. What if we had a listing of who is willing to help and where they are? People that are willing to help other members on here, and I would probably stress only members on here to keep the load down, could tell me that they are willing to help and where they are located. I could maintain the first post in that thread by editing it based on what people say. And y'all could look at the location, pick someone close, and email that person via the included email system in the forum. It might look something like: REGION/USER NAME/REAL NAME/AREA Oklahoma: Gary Lewis; Tulsa Area Texas: Etc But, each member would obviously be able to say "I'm sorry, I can't do that right now." Or whatever. Anyway, thoughts? And, what do you see when you click on the link on my name, above?
  12. No no...don't worry about Gary, I'll sort that part out. I was just trying to figure out what is supposed to be there for DIN radio mounting, that's all. If I go that route, I'll make it work;). What do the rubber connectors between the doors and cab look like? They look like this:
  13. I never even thought that I do know the calipers & pads are the same between the 2 trucks. I also know the offset of the 2 rotor/hubs are different as are the spindles to work with the offset. I will clean up & paint the shields that I know will work, the rot is not that bad, so if the good ones will not fit I don't have to stop the job. Will keep you posted. Thanks Dave G. Good! Sometimes I get in a sarcastic mood and it shows in my writing. I responded that way to someone else at about the same time. Anyway, glad the rot isn't to bad and that you have a backup plan.
  14. I could probably pull the faceplate on mine and take a pic if that would help.
  15. I have a single-return can and will swap for the dual if that's what you need. As for welding, I don't doubt he can do it. It is a question of if it would be strong enough after doing so. I was going to suggest I show him my bracket, but it isn't thin so apparently they are quite different.
  16. It is a clean and sweet-looking truck. But I didn't recognize the Frankfurt airport. Been there many times, but rarely driving, and even then I was checking in a rent car not parking in what looks like long-term parking. But I usually got a Taunus Ring taxi to Bad Homburg.
  17. It is a Sony. Sounds good, but I don't know what the reception will be on the run to/from Grove, so want alternate music.
  18. I'll let Bill work with you on that. Bill - I have the documents here: Fuel Systems/Diagnostics.
  19. Well, the best laid plans of mice and men. I did get the passenger's side headlight adjusted. But, one of the adjusting screws in the driver's side headlight bucket isn't in the slot and I couldn't get that one adjusted. Hopefully it won't be too cold nor wet tomorrow afternoon and I can pull things apart and either put the screw in the slot or replace whatever is bad.
  20. Thanks Gary. I was just looking around Ebay and came across this 1985 radio bezel that looks to match my existing colors. https://www.ebay.com/itm/1985-FORD-F-Series-Truck-and-Bronco-Radio-Bezel-Black-and-Gray-No-Clock/123040884005?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649 I was just wondering if I decided to go this route, what other parts I would need to install an aftermarket single DIN stereo? I guess I could fab something up if need be, but I was just curious if there was a single mounting plate for the 1985-1986 single DIN factory radios, but from what you've already posted, it looks like no. No, there wasn't a single mounting plate. But most DIN radios come with mounting hardware and should be able to be mounted in these trucks. The one in Big Blue is mounted with the hardware that came with it. And that bezel should be fine. And it is a good price.
  21. Hey Gary, Do you have an illustration of the 1985-1986 install? The current pictures don't show the DIN set-up, correct? The radios are supported by the steel plate correct? Is there anything else under or behind the radio supporting it? If I buy one of these mounting plates for an 85-86 DIN radio, will it bolt right into my 84 dash, or did they change something else between 1984-1985? I'm just looking at some parts on Ebay... There is but one dash for these trucks, as shown below. And there is but one illustration for the Radio Mounting Plate - note that it says "1980/" and that means 1980 to the end of the catalog, which is 1989. But, note that for 1985/ there are two mounting plates for each radio - the electronic radio has an upper and a lower and the non-electronic radio () has a left and right. (The part numbers are on the Radios tab.) So the illustration isn't actually correct for the 1985/86 radios since it doesn't show two. However, here's the 1987/ illustration, perhaps that will help. But I can't say that any part you buy will bolt in since I don't know what you are buying nor what radio you are getting. As for support behind, it looks like the 87/ radio has a bracket that slides onto something.
  22. That should be just about right for checking the noise level in the cab. Wish I'd have tested before replacing the glass run and anti-rattle strips, as that is probably the biggest change I'll see. But, now I can check for future gains, which will include mufflers, door weather stripping, door sound absorption and deadening, and a headliner - which I removed due to the rain of yuk I was feeling. Thanks! I did get the iPhone set up to play through the radio - and it sounds GOOD! In addition I got the shutoff valve in the heater hose so the incoming air won't be heated. But, since it will get below freezing tonight I may want to leave it on for the trip over on Tuesday. I also got things set up so I can align the headlights tonight. They've been atrocious since I got the truck, and there's a chance I'll have to drive after dark on this trip, so I need to align them. Given that I lined the truck up with the garage door, measured over for each headlight, and dropped down 2 3/4" for the 36 1/2' it is away from the door. (Supposed to be 2" for 25'.) We shall see how it goes.
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