Gary Lewis

Jonathan - Ok, I see your plan and it makes sense. I'll keep my eyes open for one of those, but doubt I'll see one this far south. As for being scarce on here, we understand - although you'll be missed. But keep us updated on the progress - both on the trailer as well as the trucks.

Welcome to the Bullnose Forum. I assume that Section 4-82 is in the 1986 factory shop manual - correct? I believe I have a training document that outlines that procedure. I'll look in a bit when I get out to the shop.

What starter did you go with?

Are you still looking for sun visors? I have some, and can dig them out if you are still looking. I think I have two pair of blue, one of which is NOS, a pair of brown, and a pair of maroon. Don't remember how good they are, but will look if you are interested.

Yep, your memory is good. Here's the post on FTE. And here's their website. The writeup sure implies that it does fluoresce. They say "glow" which should mean fluoresce.

Makes sense, although I'm no painter. Anyway, can't wait to see it. By the way, since yours is an '83 I thought I should give you a link to the new '83 lit I put up: Literature/1983 Literature. There are Bronco and F-Series brochures, the dealer fact book, and color chip chart.

What about what paint we used? Do you remember that?

David - It was Bill O'Neil, Mr HiPo Parts, that told me about the half-life of the fluorescent paints. His theory is that if a needle or gauge has been in a box for 30 years its paint will no longer fluoresce. Yes, being shielded from the UV of the sun helps, but no where near enough to make the paint last 30 years. Do you remember what paint we used? If it was the HiPo then it should fluoresce. But if the Testors then I don't think it will as I think their "Fluorescent Orange" is the name of the color, not a paint that glows. So, it is possible that he was right if neither the ones we painted nor the new tach actually fluoresce. I still need to do the test that I promised him I'd do. He sent me the new LED's and a new bottle of paint, so I need to make that happen. Did the blue bulbs help you read the odometer? I'm not sold on the blue LED's we used as it certainly doesn't give a stock appearance. I'm hoping Bill's new cool-white LED's do the trick, but still need to do the test.

Good plan. I've referred people on the FB groups to info on the EVTM's, air cleaners, interior, and many other things.

No reason at all, but I think Jon was looking for the factory correct piece for authenticity sake (In case he were to move somewhere where the emissions folks had to poke around under the hood) For $250 I think I'd set my carb on a slab of something, mark the bolt holes, measure the location and size of the bore and cut/bore it out, drill and tap it for a hose barb, and put a few angles on it to approximate that piece.

Other than the port for vacuum, is it just a spacer? Any reason why one can't be made, maybe out of aluminum or steel?

As you know, the website and forum are a labor of love for me, and there's no income. So, I don't make money when we get more traffic. However, I do get a kick out of it - and it helps others to know where there is good documentation. So, I track how many page views the website, not just the forum, gets each day. And, as shown below, we've been averaging about 225 page views each day - until the FORDification show on the 9th. That day the owner of the F100's Facebook page shared the site with his members and the views went to 450, but then settled back down to about 250/day. So, apparently those folks started using the site a bit. Then yesterday at about 6:00 PM I shared on three Facebook pages (F100, Bullnose, & Dents & Bumps) the fact that I'd added the dealer facts books and brochures to the 1982 and '83 pages. And the views for yesterday went to 937. In addition, the views for today as of 9:00 AM are at 262, which is higher than a day's average a week ago. I say all of that to encourage you to share the website on forums and Facebook groups you might be on. And, share the info about the upcoming show as well, which I've done on those three Facebook pages. Let's help even more people.

Got one laying around, Bill? In your treasure trove of carb parts?

Indeed...considering Ray just bought a whole truck for less money...lol. I guess it is evidence that the spacer does indeed exist (that's IF it is an original Ford OEM piece?). Now that I have a picture of what the thing looks like, I can post up a want ad for Jon and see if I can find one for $10 bucks or something like that so it can be mailed cheaply;). Good plan, Stan.

Jon, I came across this For Sale ad while searching for other stuff this morning, and it appears to include one of the elusive Non-EGR spacers you've been looking for... https://www.kijiji.ca/v-view-details.html?adId=1359162274&requestSource=b Not sure if that is an OEM piece or not?...Maybe it's a homemade one...you will know better than I. He's asking $325 for the whole works (that's about $250 USD). Well spotted, but that is pricey!

Well done! You got a treasure trove, and I am really, REALLY interested in what you got. Perhaps some books I've never heard of? If you got brochures that I don't have I'm certainly interested. I have 1980 Bronco; 1981 4-Wheeler, Bronco, Explorer, Truck, F-Series, Accessory, and a Bronco and an F-Series advert. In '82 I have the F-Series brochure. In '83 I have the Bronco and an F-Series brochure as well as the chip color chart. For '84 I have nothing. For '85 I have the early and late F-Series brochures as well as an Explorer. And for '86 I have nothing - but that may be what you have as well. And I'd like to get more of the dealer facts books or organizers, which are three-ring binders - at least the three I have: 1981, 2, and 3. So I'd like 1980, 4, 5, & 6. I probably ought to have an '80 EVTM as well. I have the '81, 5, & 6. Any microfiche or other versions of the MPC? What else????

Yup, that looks like Hugger Orange. When will the rest of the truck match it?

Made some fairly significant additions to the website today. I'm using a new approach, which is to put the PDF's on the page using embedded HTML and linking to the documents on my Google drive. That does several things, but most importantly for the user is that it allows the full 600 bpi resolution to be seen. So, you can click the "pop-out" button to open a document on a new page and then zoom in up to 4 times to get "up close and personal" with the document without it becoming blurry. But, please give it a try and let me know what you think of the new approach. And you could compare the 1982 F-Series brochure, which was done with just inserting pictures (jpg's), with the new 1983 F-Series brochure to see the difference between the old and new approaches. Here are the additions: 1982 Dealer's Facts Organizer to the 1982 Literature page. Addition of several things to the 1983 Literature page: 1983 Bronco brochure 1983 F-Series brochure 1983 Dealer's Fact Book, although it is missing the Options & Accessories pages for the moment 1983 Exterior Color Selections: The paint chip card

I now have the 1982 Dealer Facts Book and the 1983 Dealer Facts Book on the website. You can see the power info on the Power Trains tab on each.

Well, that's 100 km/hr...so only about 60 MPH...not that bad really. Although, with that sloppy reman steering box, it can be a bit unnerving sometimes at any speed if you hit a bump or groove in the road. The reason for taking that picture was to show where the RPM's landed at 60MPH, and it was just under 2000 RPM. I had calculated this anyway, but I'm just happy that it worked as planned...lol. The M5OD 5spd obviously has a speedo drive gear with the same amount of teeth as my 3spd did, because my speedo appears to be reading correct...or at least as correct as it was prior to swapping in the 5spd. I was pretty certain that the speedo was going to be correct, but I can say now that it is confirmed. Oops, missed that.

Congrat's!!!! But, be careful at that speed! Wow, hard to believe it'll run that fast at less then 2000 RPM. At 2500 RPM Big Blue is doing 65 MPH. And I don't want to think about how much of a handful he'd be at your speed. As for the help, happy to do so. Helping someone get his/her truck back on the road, like you've done, is what it is all about.

:nabble_anim_jump::nabble_anim_jump::nabble_anim_jump::nabble_anim_jump::nabble_anim_jump::nabble_anim_jump::nabble_anim_jump::nabble_anim_jump::nabble_anim_jump::nabble_anim_jump::nabble_anim_jump::nabble_anim_jump: What a haul! I can't wait to see what you find when you unwrap them. There's a gold mine in there I'm sure. As for coming to the show, PLEASE DO!

Oh! How quickly they forget. So, are you coming to the show in Sept? If so, with how big of a truck?

Wait. How would I "see" anything? What auction? Just any?

Gary, I ended up doing just that, and it tested OK. It was still behaving weird, so I think I may have had some air pocket issues and once they were worked out of the system, it all settled down a bit. I still have an issue with the sender, or the gauge, or the wiring/connections in between. The gauge was reading well into the "H", and is still reading too hot. I'll sort that out, no big deal. The FSM says to check the gauge with resistors. A 10 ohm resistor to ground should put the gauge at the end of the range closer to the "H", and 73 ohms should put it closer to the "C". If the gauge behaves fine with that test, then replace the sender. The sender was reading around 30 ohms when I checked it, which should have put it in the middle of the gauge-ish...but it was still on the hot side of the gauge. With all of the corroded wires and connectors I'm finding on this truck, I'm surprised that was the only issue I've run into that actually made me worry...even if it was only briefly. And yes, that is why I paid the extra to have the engine broken in and tested on the dyno. They put a lot of effort into making sure everything was right before they started it. If I was at the beginning of a 20 minute cam break-in and saw the temp gauge pegged hot, I would have had to shut her down (having not been prepared with a IR temp gun on hand). Air pockets can cause big problems. I like to fill a cooling system with a heater hose off at the heater. That let's the air out as it is the high spot in the system. But to the gauge, corroded wires shouldn't cause the gauge to read high. Instead, it should read low as that would increase the resistance, and low resistance causes the it to read low. But, if there's a short circuit then that might do it.