Gary Lewis

Our stations that sell 100% gas usually have a separate hose for it. And, it is spendy, but the cost of repair should be figured in as well.

Amen to that!

Ouch! Glad no one was hurt, but someone might be sore. Yes, that'll keep you busy for a while. I understand "nursing along". That 2001 Subie in which I just replaced the radiator was purchased new by my wife. We benched it in 2014 when it had almost 150K miles, but our daughter bought it from us. Then, when they moved to Nicaragua it came home to stay with us so they'd have a car when they come back to visit. Well, they've been back 7 months and it now has 168K on it.

Tomorrow will be a good day.

You are, quite literally, on the map.

Yes, I twigged. (Today I sent an email to our preacher and in it I used "no joy" and "adverts" in it. He, also, used to live in England. I like to use what few Briticisms I know where and when I can.) Ok, it was sold in San Jose, so probably had the full CA-spec emissions system on it. I'll see what I can find.

You will understand - in May.

LOL! Here I can get 91 ethanol free. And when I'm towing that's what I use. But, if that wasn't available I'd still have to have the 91 octane, so I'd take the 10% ethanol stuff.

LOL! Welcome to the Bullnose Forum! You were so anxious to ask that question that you did so before introducing yourself. That's fine, but it does show interest in that truck. I wouldn't be surprised if it goes for $10,000. That's a really clean truck, and from what I read almost everything is "right" about it. Red flags? I'd check to see that it doesn't have body filler, but it shouldn't if it truly is a CA truck. The climate there is much more kind to paint and plastic than it is many other places, so that truck should be solid. But the places to check are the cab corners and over the rear wheelwells. And, I'd check under the hood to make sure that it is all stock. It probably is, but the CA-spec trucks had somewhat different fuel and ignition systems, so you would want to know that it is all there and the wires haven't been butchered. But, it appears to be a really nice truck.

All's well that ends well. You won't hurt the carb at all. As for what I use when I can't push that "88" or equivalent button and get pure gasoline, I use the ethanol stuff. And it depends on what truck I'm in and what I'm doing w/it as to which octane I get. Big Blue is ok running around light on 87 octane. But if you hitch the trailer up you HAVE TO go to 91 or 92 octane or it'll knock, not just ping. (I think the advance curve is set for EGR.) But as soon as I can I pump it full of pure gasoline.

Congrat's!!! Not only does it look good, but it should work quite well. And thanks for the details on the part numbers. It should be easy for someone to follow in your steps.

Kevin - You'll get there. Don't worry. Pete - I agree that Painless isn't. We have this one listed in the Resources folder: American Autowire. But I've not used one so don't know if they are painful or not.

Yes. Check to see if the rubber is bad and if the tube is corroded. Then you'll know what the problem is.

A rock star because I know how to use my own forum? Anyway, by "E85" do you mean the gas that comes by pushing the 85 button? If so, that gas does have ethanol, but it will be no more than 10%. The 85 refers to the octane. That gas isn't good on the carb, but it is far less corrosive than true E85, which has 85% ethanol.

Welcome! How 'bout some pics? On the fuel gauge, it is frequently the sending unit. But see the Troubleshooting tab here to determine that: Electrical/Gauges. As for the turn signals, do neither work? Do they come on but don't flash? Or not come on? Gold emblems were not offered by Ford, so it might have been done at the dealership or, more likely, a previous owner. And a pic will help a lot on the paint scheme.

Here's how: Give it a try on that pic?

What is the DSO code on the certification label? That will tell us where it was sold. And tomorrow I'll see if I can figure something more out.

Go here: Fuel Systems/Fuel Filler Part #'s/Fuel Filler Pipes. There you can see the illustrations, including for the chassis cab, and the associated part numbers and what the part is called. I doubt that the tube is bad. I'd bet that the connection between the hose and the tube is the problem. And a new hose may fix it if taking it off and cleaning it won't.

Gaspers!?!? Well, I would never had guessed that. Gear (differential side) seems a lot more obvious.

Two things. First, the brown wire should have ~7v on it when the key is on. That says the ballast resistor is doing its thing and dropping the voltage to the coil down. But make sure that brown wire is to the rear of the two small terminals on the solenoid. That terminal gets battery voltage to it when the solenoid is pulled in to start the engine, and the temporary shot of 12v through it to the coil gives a higher voltage to the spark for starting. However, the coil nor the ignition module can handle that for long, so it is just for starting. Second, I got confused with your testing on the solenoid. But, with the ground cable off of the battery the solenoid won't work. And, unless the solenoid is firmly attached to the fender and there's a good ground from the battery to the engine to the cab it still won't work. I would test the solenoid by removing the cable going to the starter. Then I'd put my meter from the negative terminal of the battery to the now-empty rear large terminal of the solenoid. And I'd use a jumper wire to go from the battery's positive terminal, or the front large terminal on the solenoid which should be the same, to the front small terminal on the solenoid. That should bring the solenoid in, just as if you turned the key to Start, and you should see battery voltage on your meter. If that works, then place the wire from the ignition switch, which should be a red/light blue, back on the solenoid's front small terminal and turn the ignition switch to Start. You should hear the solenoid close. If so, then replace the starter cable and see if the engine will fire.

Welcome. I find that making it as easy for people as possible gets the most help. Is the problem the filler neck or the hose? If the hose, you might consider marine fuel filler hose. It is made for that purpose and if there's one with the right ID to fit the tubing to which it connects it might work. Here's a search that returned several hits on marine fuel filler hose: https://www.google.com/search?q=marine+fuel+filler+hose&rlz=1C1CHBF_enUS772US772&oq=marine+fuel+filler&aqs=chrome.2.69i57j0l5.11750j0j7&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8

Gary, looks like the truck is gone already, so it was the right price for somebody! Like you always say...you couldn't have built that truck for that money. Yes, it does appear to be gone. Hope it went to a good home. And, hope this is a sign that our trucks are, indeed, becoming sought after.

You might get more help if they didn't have click on the links to see the pics:

Mark/Dyn - Thanks for closing the loop. And, glad it is working. However, I'd like to get just a bit more info for documentation purposes. Did we ever figure out what your calibration code is?

Then you are set. Start perusing the listings in the PNW.