Gary Lewis

Bill - I'm talking about the shaft that goes from the steering column to the steering box. The MPC calls it the lower steering column shaft.

Trent told me the bricknose rag joints DO go bad, and when they fail the steering wheel slop is really horrible... worse than the old school rag joints. I don’t think it will stop me from using one on account of the high price of the Borgeson shafts, but if money were no object that’s what I would probably buy instead. Big Blue has the Borgeson. I'll have to see which is the prettiest, and that one will go on Dad's truck.

They look GOOD, Bill. No cracking of the powder?

And now for today's update. First, the pitman arm removal. It took the big impact and a large air hose to get that rascal off. And I was sure the puller was going to break, but it didn't. Then I blasted and powder coated the pitman arm and a few of the associated parts: Then I worked on the RedHead steering box to get it to fit. As it turns out, both Dad's original steering box and the RedHead box have the same casting code. But, they are different! And the difference that caused me a problem was the bottom-rear bolt "ear". That ear was 1/8" longer than the one on Dad's original box, and the one I used to develop the reinforcement. So I had to grind that ear down to match the original box. But, I got that done and here's the box sort of installed: But I then pulled it off and touched up the black of the box as well as the holes in the frame where I've been test-fitting the box. But, hopefully tomorrow afternoon, after church, I can bolt the box on for good with those powder coated bolts. And add the pitman arm. Oh, and Steven Fox/FoxFord33 is coming over to clean his Windsor timing cover and press in a new front seal. So I'm heating up the parts washer and will also clean that steering shaft from Huck. Might as well clean the one that's attached to the other steering box so we can have a close-up comparison.

That's better.

I did climb the microfiche tower and learned that I do have the right pitman arm. The 1982 version of the MPC says that I should have E0TZ 3590-B, which the cross ref book says will be marked E0TA 3590-BD. However, it also says that I have the wrong steering box. Anyway, I've established that this is the right pitman arm and that confirms that this was the box out of Dad's truck. So, I've media blasted it and lots of other parts, which I hope to show you soon.

Yes, they could order new seat covers, and that's what is listed. That's in the A part of the catalog, way back in the Soft Trim Section F. But, if that is really something like a dealer add-on then it might not be listed. However, usually when given a part number, like that is, they are listed. I wonder if that is the ID/Engineering #?

I'd sell that one for $20+sh (actual price, your choice), and I took that pic yesterday, so I can actually FIND it (unlike the interval wipers!!!). E-mail me if you want it. Anything is, I guess, if you can find a replacement. But I've never seen a molded rag joint go bad, unless it was burned or wrecked. That's why I like them so much. I think it's the same molding that's used on '92-96/7 intermediate shafts. https://supermotors.net/getfile/217634/thumbnail/intermediate-shaft-92.jpg I just checked and the rag joint on the one I removed from Huck, the '90, is fine. And that truck was used and abused. So maybe they don't go bad?

Let's hope the shielding on the RCA cables is good.

Good point. While I agree with Steve that removing the pitman arm with the box on the truck is the best because the box is captive, that wasn't going to work for me today. The freshly powder-coated front swing arm was too close and it was a given that I was going to scratch it. So I pulled the box and worked it on the bench. The KD puller might have fit on a 4wd truck, but I doubt the Snap-on one would. However, either would probably work on a 2wd truck.

I'm not disputing that the Snap-on puller is the better puller, but I got the job done with this combo this morning. However, I did have to change to a bigger air hose and a connection closer to the compressor to get enough torque to do it. And, I wore gloves and safety glasses as I really expected that puller to explode. It didn't and the arm finally came off.

The best way I've found to remove those screws, assuming they don't come with a large #3 Phillips screwdriver, is with a hammer-driven impact. Like this one from Harbor Freight. Or this one from Lisle. The impact tends to drive the bit into the screw head, and at the same time turns it. And, that does look like the rear window run. Here's the illustration from Interior/Doors/Windows.

No. If you connect it there then the horn will only honk when you are starting the engine. Hook it to the terminal at the bottom where the positive battery cable connects.

This thing is confusing. But seat covers frequently are. A seat cover listing in the catalog is of the form "E7TZ 1562900 ABB". But that one clearly says it is E7TZ 15629A00B". Here's what I see in the catalog:

No, fuses are bi-directional - they don't care which way the current flows. But, as Steve points out, try to route the wire with the other wires in the area, and possibly zip-tie the wire just before and after the fuse holder to the other wires. And, clean up the battery cable connection to the starter relay while you are doing it.

Does it need to be special? Won't the seat belts back there restrain it like in any vehicle? Obviously you don't have the top tether, but what am I missing?

Yes, it does look cool. But, how'd they get that crane mounted in the bed?

I kinda sorta remember it. But that's mainly due to the awful quality of the pics. And, the pic of the odometer is from a different truck. I'm not sure I buy the 8500 miles claim.

I put my pics on my Onedrive from Microsoft, but could also use my Google drive. Anyway, I hope you haven't lost them. But, you can upload from your computer to here w/o hosting anywhere else. Anyway, looking forward to seeing how you mount the lights.

It was in one of my threads (I think) because I was planning on buying a Borgeson shaft to go with my new RedHead steering gear. I have since gotten in contact with a guy that is parting out a couple 87-91 trucks, and he said he'd sell me one of the shafts for $30 bucks. I'm going to grab one or both of the cowl panels as well. The prices are cheap enough, it's just a matter of waiting for him to remove the stuff I guess. Is the rag joint a replaceable item on the 87-91 shafts? I have the 1990 shaft from Huck and plan to use it on Dad's truck. Good upgrade. (Once I get the pitman arm off, and a few hundred other things done.)

Early for a Bricknose, but probably not the early Bullnose. I'll have to see what I have.....

Yep, that's the kind I was thinking of.

Yes, we could include the info on the dip stick and tube in the changes list. I see what the compression fitting is, thanks Dave. And, the van dip stick would make it easy - just point it the other way and check it in the cab.

Yes, the big terminal on the relay where the battery cable goes. (See, I told you that the forum is better than emailing me. Steve responded while I was busy.

Interesting approach. Can you give us a closeup of the compression fitting?