Gary Lewis

Pretty! But 'spensive. My brother just bought 4 American Racing Torq Thrusts for $460.

EOTZ 3A719-B Pump to gear (pressure) 80/81 F-U100/350 - - except F-U150 with 4/W/D, w/HD frt. susp. or snow plow pkgs.

That's for our trucks, but I don't know why it is needed? 17269 PLUG (SPEEDOMETER ADAPTER) 80/ F350 - - 4/W/D EOTZ 17269-A Reduces opening in transfer case

Thanks, David. She had her pre-op lab work today, so we are ready for Monday.

What are you using to dye them? And, will you also be doing other parts in the interior with the same dye? Anyway, looks good.

Are you doing quad shocks on this truck?

Then it probably has nothing to do with Reverse. Instead the throttle position sensor may have a glitch in it. You can test the TPS to see if it gives the values shown here: http://www.garysgaragemahal.com/diagnostics.html And the idle speed adjustment is supposed to be here, but I'm on a hospital's wifi and it is S L O O O O W and doesn't fill in, so I'm not sure it is there: http://www.garysgaragemahal.com/efi-idle-speed-adjustment.html

Jarek - Those things are amazing. Glad you got them out.

I think I've turn off "image sharing". Let's see what that does. We can toggle it back on and try other options if we want. Let me know, please.

By golly it does.

Oops! My bad. Then I'm at a loss. Does your idle speed seem low? Does the truck die when you first put it in reverse or when you touch the throttle?

Interesting. I don't think I've seen one of those. But, that certainly simplifies changing the hose.

Yesterday I mentioned that my wife, Janey, had eye appointments. And, that there'd be more on that later. Well, now is "later". Over the past several months she's been noticing that her eyes get very tired by the end of the day, especially when she does a lot of what she loves to do - sew and quilt. Then last Sunday in Bible class she was having trouble reading what was on the screen, so closed her right eye and looked through her left eye. And everything was weird. Curved. Blurry. Fortunately she had an appointment with our eye doctor for yesterday, and when they checked her out they realized that she has a problem that needs to be addressed ASAP. So they sent her to a specialist, who happened to have an opening yesterday afternoon. The specialist said it will require surgery, and they had a cancelation for Monday. But, they need pre-surgery lab work, and they can do that today. Plus, there will be frequent post-surgery checkups. The reason I bring this up is twofold: First, and most importantly, please add her to your prayer list. Second, and a distant second it is, I'll not be getting as much hands-on work done on Dad's truck for a while, nor even be on here as much. So, I need your help holding the fort and helping others. But, I will be on as I can, and I will also be working on the "book" that is to summarize all that's been done on Dad's truck. And, while you won't get notifications of the changes, you can check it out in the first post on this thread from time to time.

David - thanks. Quarterwave - There are two versions, as shown below. One without the cooler and one with. But both have metal lines, and I believe the hose goes onto barbs on the line and then has a crimped keeper over it. So, if the hose is leaking then you'll have to cut the keeper off, get the hose off the tube, and then replace the hose and use a hose clamp. However, I've not done that so I'm not 100% sure that's the way it works. Perhaps someone else knows?

David - I've forgotten, is the cooler in the supply or return hose? Regardless, they are both probably the same size.

It isn't really under pressure, so doesn't need to be a high-pressure hose. But, the catalog gives part numbers and no specifications so I can't help you that way on the size. If no one else can I may get out to the shop tomorrow and can see what I can figure out.

Yes, the dealership where I bought it.

The ONLY t-case used in '87-96 Broncos was the BW1356, as that chart shows (and it shows no F350 1345s, but it begins at '87). I have at least 5 of them (only because I don't need more), so I wouldn't describe them as "rare". From '80-86: ONLY the NP208F. I think all '78-9 Broncos got the NP205, but I'm not nearly as familiar with them. '66-77 got the Dana 20. An '86 diesel's torque doesn't really compare to the 7.3L PSTD's. From what I've seen in the JYs & read in Ford documentation, the 1345 came out in '86. But I don't usually look for or notice them, so that's really just my impression. Not to enter into the discussion re strength, since I don't know, but the BW1345 was in use by 1980, as shown here: Driveline/Transfer Cases and on the Applications tab. And the 1356 was introduced in '87 and appears to have been used on everything, including F150's and Bronco's. But the 1345 was still in use as well, although not used on the F350's as of '87.

Jarek - You may have the idle set too low, which can cause it to die. If you don't know, there's an idle speed screw on the right of the carburetor and down close to the intake and you can turn it clockwise slightly to raise the idle speed. Otherwise, I can't think of any reason that it would die just in reverse.

Yippee!

Jonathan, and all others - I can't find all that many controls on the package, but I've made a change that may help. Now the buttons seem to disappear in ~5 seconds from when you stop scrolling. At least on my iPhone X. But try it for yourself, please, and let me know if that is better and, if so, is it acceptable. Meanwhile I'm still researching the issue. Perhaps I can make more tweaks. But, in the end I want it to be easy to use for us, and if it means we take the buttons off then so be it.

This is probably the hardest area of the catalog in which to find the info. As it now says at the top of the 2150 page, if you don't have the alpha character that goes behind the 95.2, 95.3, or 95.4, such as A, then you need to find that. To do that you have to click on the CALIBRATION INFO & PART #'S link. And there, assuming you don't have the tag on the carb, follow the instructions on the Application To Parts List tab to find your application and, more importantly, the Parts List Number. Then click the Parts List tab and find the specific parts list. In that you'll see the carburetor and the 95.3 and the all-important alpha character. Then, armed with the alpha character you go to the 2150 page and find the column for that alpha character. What you called the "XX". All of the parts numbers for that carb are in that column. As for the symbols, I've documented that somewhere, but since there are hundreds, if not thousands, of bits and pieces of the catalog scattered all over the website, I dunno where. Anyway, here's what it says:

I'm not Steve, but the answer is the same: Light green/red to I Yellow connected to A

This is my main objection to rubber floors. AZ truck, frame still had factory paint but the floor pans were GONE. I suspect that accumulated dirt and window leaks were the other factors, but a rubber barrier that held in the moisture was the main reason this floor rotted. My crew cab had a leaky windshield and there is some rust from it, but the carpet and jute would dry out and there does not seem to be any serious damage. The idea of a rubber floor sounds appealing, but ultimately I think removeable mats in the foot areas are generally an easier way to catch and deal with mud. Jonathan - You make a very good point. I guess I'll stay with carpet and get good mats.

Mark - You are now on the map.