Gary Lewis

Nice truck! Doesn't look at all like an old farm truck. You've done a very good job on it.

Your carb's choke needs power from the stator winding of the alternator, which is a half-wave rectified DC. My limited understanding of 1-wire alternators is that they are based on a GM unit, and I don't know if they provide that output. However Ford's 1G, 2G, and 3G alternators do. Back to the 1-wire, if you are thinking about a Powermaster then I'm not your guy. I wouldn't run one if you gave it to me, for two reasons: Instead I'll run something I can replace easily or get parts for when it fails. And that's a 1G or 3G alternator. As for the ammeter, you could disconnect it. But my worry is more with the shunt than the meter. The shunt is probably sized to handle a max of 60 or 70 amps, which is all the alternators of the day would put out. But if you put an alternator on that has a lot more capacity you could burn the shunt up, depending on how you wire it. If you leave the wiring stock then you'll be trying to charge the battery through the shunt. And if your battery should get low, when you start the truck the alternator will kick in hard and give you all it has, which could burn up the shunt. Instead you need to wire the output of the alternator as shown below. Don't use the factory BK/O wire that goes up to S202 as that feeds through the shunt to the battery. Instead wire the alternator's output to the battery's positive side on the starter relay. That way the alternator's output doesn't go through the shunt and you won't burn it up. And, having done that you won't hurt the ammeter either since the only current it'll be measuring is that going into the cab, which isn't enough to hurt anything - if you haven't installed a killer sound system.

Congratulations!!! But remind us of the combination? This has the AOD and 4.10's? What tires? What cam? What R's are you running at, say, 65?

Strange. I'll keep you in my prayers, Jim.

Yes, I do see that they have a very wide range of products. They even have the Cole-Hersee 48530 battery isolator that I'm using on Big Blue. And other products I've never even heard of. And, they may well be right about the Bosch 0 332 019 103 relay being a 50A unit, in spite of what this "Bosch catalog" says. I'd forgotten that we have a Bosch catalog on the site (Documentation/Electrical/Relays & the Bosch Relays tab), and that catalog says that the 0 332 019 103 is indeed a 50A unit, as you can see below. And that page shows the contact voltage drop, both new and "after life", whatever that is. At 12V & 10A those are .05v and .08v respectively. In fact, if you were to scroll on down in that catalog you'd find that the 30A & 40A-rated standard relays have the same voltage drop specs at 10A. So I must be doing something wrong in my testing since I'm seeing .3 to .7V drop, which is about 10 times more. I guess my wiring might make up part of that, but I wouldn't think it would account for all of it - especially on the relays that had more drop. Given that I'm trying to come up with better testing approaches and would welcome input. For instance, I've been pulling the relays in and then applying the load. Maybe I need to make the relay switch the load? Thoughts?

I remember about the t-case rebuild. But that 1/8 turn at the rear yoke ain't good. And the trailing throttle bit suggests rear diff.

Amen, brother! And don't forget that there'd be no Moab, or elsewhere, offroading. Not a chance I'd take it on the Jeep roads around Ouray, nor the forest service roads in Arkansas where Big Blue pushed back saplings to get through.

Oh no, Jim! That does NOT sound good! Here's hoping it is something simple, but I can't imagine what that would be.

Thanks, Jim. I'm blown away with the number of listings they have. I found the ones shown at the bottom of the post and got excited as they are supposedly 50A versions and don't appear to have the larger terminal typical of those relays. But then I Googled "0 332 019 103" and found this listing on Amazon which says it is a 30A relay. However, we know that Amazon frequently has incorrect descriptions, so I found this Bosch relay catalog and, sure enough, that is a 30A relay - with a mounting tab no less. However, the Bosch catalog shows a 0 332 019 109 and says it is a 50A relay. But Pelican Parts carries that relay and their picture clearly shows the part number and that it is rated at 30A. What am I missing?

I think I'm done testing. Wish I could get that HD Bosch relay in but the bigger terminal won't go. However, I could cut that terminal down.

Wish you had a bigger trailer so you could have picked mine up too. I wish. But that F150 might not have liked it. Still, it has a 12k tow rating, so...

Well, it ain't in the 50's here either. 18F with a "feels like" of close to 0F. Tomorrow night the precip moves in and the question is what the temp will be when it hits. I've seen estimates of 2" of snow to 1/2" of ice, depending on timing. But I don't have to be out in it, so my prayers and thoughts are for you that do. Please be careful!

I really don't know how to answer that as I'm not familiar with the EGR systems on a 4.9L. Or any engine for that matter. If you have the vacuum routing diagram, like the one below from an 86 F150, you can see many of the parts listed. Hopefully someone else knows?

CJ - I don't have enough info, so I'm going to suggest you look for the numbers, plural, as I don't think you will be able to get it down to a single one. 1. Go to Documentation/Calibration Info & Part Numbers and then to the Application To Parts List tab. 2. Scroll down to Pg 33 where the 1985 4.9L engine listings start. Then scroll on down to find F150's with your transmission and 2wd or 4wd setup that says "except Calif." or "except Calif. or Hi-altitude carb". When you find those write the Parts List Number down. 3. Go to the Parts Lists tab and scroll down to find the parts lists you wrote down. They are lists of all of the parts needed to calibrate your truck as it came from the factory,

I'll look for the info, but I'm with the others that the EGR system should not be the problem with fuel coming out of the carb.

More testing shows that with the blower ground relay working properly I have another conundrum - I'm getting different voltage drops across different relays when the blower is on high: Motorcraft: Tried two different ones and I get .31 to .35 volt Hella: Have one of these and I tested it several times - and got .70 to .73v Tyco: Have several of these and got .37 - .38 volt drop consistently ?: I have two relays with no names on them, and I got .40 - .42 volt drop across them Looks like I'll use Motorcraft relays. Next up is the blower power relay. But that may not be for a couple of days. Lots of church activities, as well as the Chief's game, tomorrow. Maybe Monday, although I have a Medicare "wellness" checkup that morning. But the forecast says we are going to have moisture and the temp will be right at 32, so the prognostications vary regarding the solidity of the moisture when it comes down.

Obviously they hired someone with some reason. That's a much-improved cover. Now for some strange news. I've been using my DVMs to test voltages to the blower ground relay, the one that was obviously not working properly when I started this quest. The schematic is below and here are the results of my testing on each pin of the relay: 85: Gets key-on power, as planned 30: It has a great ground 87: Goes to the blower motor as expected. However it does have ~2 ohms resistance to ground with the relay out, which is what I measure on another resistor pack I have, so this must be correct. 86: This has from 2 to 6 ohms of resistance to ground depending on how you push on the handle of the blower speed switch. So obviously the switch itself is suspect, although that won't matter with the relay working as it'll be good enough to pull the relay in. HOWEVER, when I closed the door and the dome lights, all LED, went off the resistance dropped to .9 ohm from 2.2 ohms. So I'm trying to think through what would cause the reading to change that much. I'm thinking that it is a voltage differential between the ground in the cab, G701, and the ground at the battery, which is where my DVM was connected. But I cannot detect the difference, and my meters read to .001v. Having said that, it doesn't take much change in resistance testing to make a big difference. Maybe that's a red herring and I should stick to the ground relay issue.

Bummer! Ok, to find the part numbers we need to find the calibration code. I've not looked back through this thread, but I don't remember finding it. So you'll have to tell me everything you know about the truck - and then it would help if you'd put that in a signature. What year, engine, transmission, and if it is a CA truck or 49 states.

In high school, which was in the early 60's, a friend with a 47 Chevy sedan took another three of us onto a sandbar along the Arkansas River. He was flying when we hit the sand and that carried us a long way out there - before we were stuck. Buried to the axles. We found boards and limbs in a big drift pile and dug out below the tires and drove onto the boards - and then got stuck at the ends of the boards. We kept this up all day, about 6' at a time, until we got off the sand. It must have taken 6 hours of steady digging, driving, digging, driving, etc. If we'd had 4wd I'm convinced we'd have been a whole lot farther before getting stuck. On the other hand, if we'd aired down a bit we might have gotten out sooner. Live and learn.

There's nothing on the inside of the cover, but there is on the outside. Here's what the cover from Dad's truck looks like: And here's what the cover on Big Blue looks like, and then there's a sheet in the documentation in the truck that shows which fuse serves what function and its current rating. But it would be a lot better if I were to put the ratings and usage on the fuse box cover also.

Just plugged the HVAC blower back in and, as expected, there was no change to the voltage while charging in the 2A mode. Still sitting at 13.3 volts and pulling ~.5A, which I suspect is the coil current for the CH smart battery isolator, which is pulled in. I can't think of what could cause the voltage to have come up about .6v unless it was taking the system to almost 15V and back down several times. (I doubt that it is due to any temp changes in the shop as it is pretty much constant.) Anyway, back to the documentation so I can get the blower motor relays in...

Is this what you have in mind? It is what is in the EFI/driver's side PDB. I took a pic of the PDB and drew it up on CAD. And this is exactly what I need to do on the passenger's side PDB.

Speaking of road trips, this popped up on my "memories" yesterday from 2017. That's the road trip that started it all.

Good idea, Jim, but let me see if I understand. You are talking about an outline drawing of the PDB that includes the fuses, relays, and diode with callouts telling what each does. Then that would be reduced to sit in a corner of any schematic where that PDB's components appear. Right? I have that drawing for the driver's side PDB already, and thought I did for the passenger's side one. In fact, they were printed, laminated, and stuffed inside the PDB so you could easily see what relay or fuse does which function. But when I opened the PS PDB the other day it wasn't there. So I'll need to figure that out. But I'm not sure about being able to make it legible on the modified EVTM's schematic. That is a low res jpg and when I put things on it they've come out really poor. So I'm wondering if I might be better off redrawing the EVTM page in TurboCAD instead of spending time modifying it to match Big Blue. That would let me print at 600 dpi and that gives good, crisp pictures. That might actually be easier than cutting & pasting things in Paint. Looking at the schematic below, all of the fuselinks are now fuses in the PDB, the ammeter is a voltmeter and its wiring includes a relay in the PDB, and the alternator is a 3G. But I could do it in the EVTM format so it matches other pages. http://www.garysgaragemahal.com/uploads/6/5/8/7/65879365/thinking-26_orig.jpg

I don't know where he got it, but I've gone to several Mecum auctions and doubt they'd have had it. But it was a really nice truck. It has been in an accident and the frame is bent to some extent at the front. And one of the fenders, driver's I think, was pushed back and hit the door. But otherwise it was mint. According to the new owner, Allison Terry, it apparently was parked under a very big tree after the accident and not driven again. He said he went back for many years on Google Street and it was in the same spot every time. And the shade seems to have saved the interior very well as he said even the dash pad isn't cracked. So I'm happy to have found what are said to be blue seats in excellent condition. I wanted to have the short-back buckets that Chad gave me recovered, but I'm not finding anyone around here that will do it. And about 10 years ago when I had the ones for Dad's truck done it was over $1000, so it is probably double that now. Road trip!