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Gary Lewis

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Everything posted by Gary Lewis

  1. It would be easy enough to slot the bolt holes .125"/each to mount the smaller master. Especially if you have a mill. But, then you have to do that each time you replace it. Having said that, my first thought when I looked at the bore sizes was "That's really not that much difference." But, then I put finger to keyboard and found a big difference: Now, let's go back to Jonathan's post: This confuses me. I found today that Huck, the Bricknose F250, had different mounting hole spacing on the M/C than the F450 does. And Huck had a GVWR of ~8600 lbs, same as Big Blue. And, both have the 8-lug hubs, full-floating rear, etc. Doesn't that make then heavy duty F250's? Here's a snippet from the catalog, which seems to say that in 1984-86 the break between LD and HD was at 8500 GVWR, but that in 1987 it changed to 7000. Huck was a '90 F250 w/an 8600 GVWR and yet his M/C's mounting holes are closer together than the F450's. So, how can the HD F250's M/C's bolt to the hydroboost? I'm missing something obvious, I'm sure.
  2. You don't have a choice. Go for it. Did you ever install those heads you found? As for the valve covers, you went with the OMC ones, right?
  3. Bummer! Can you count on them enough to tear into before you get the parts?
  4. Ok, after a bit of sleuthing here's what I've found, most of which is just to tell me I know what I'm doing because my info matches that of Jonathan: My brake pedal, from the '95 F450 with hydroboost that Jim parted out (right, Jim?), is an E7TA-2455-CA, just like the one in Jonathan's pic The master cylinder bolt holes are indeed different between the vacuum-boosted F250HD, at 3.2" c/c, and the hydroboosted '95 F450's at 3.45". Said another way, you aren't going to put the F250 M/C on a hydroboost unit. The F250's bore size is 1 1/8" while the F450's is 1 5/16" But, the line fittings are the same the two M/C's. I measure the one on the rear of the M/C @ 1.0MM pitch, .431" OD and .418" at the root of the threads - as best I can measure with the small threads. That seems to say the little on on the rear is 11-1.0MM. And the bigger one toward the front of the M/C has a 1.5MM pitch and measures .550/.520", which suggests it is a 14-1.5MM. Said another way, the lines from a Bricknose F250HD should work nicely with the bigger M/C. Now, how 'bout some pics? Here's a comparison of the F250 M/C in front, and its big brother from the F450 in back: And here's the F450's hydroboost unit: And here's the hydrobooster and F450 M/C bolted together: (Where's that competition for most cluttered shop? )
  5. Welcome. This has got to be a significant problem for a lot of people, so it is surprising it hasn't been addressed before.
  6. My Brit buddy, Greg, is now able to replicate the problem, as shown here: http://support.nabble.com/BUG-Problems-Editing-Your-Own-Post-From-A-Mobile-Device-tp7604016p7604020.html. And he believes it is a bug that only Nabble can fix. We shall see what they say.
  7. And I'll save the one off Big Blue when I convert him.
  8. Oh! Now I see said the blind man. But that looks more like a stovepipe hat than a top hat. Anyway, I don't think I've ever noticed those before. Thanks for the explanation.
  9. That certainly is really good info. And, there is certainly a hydroboost tutorial coming - as and when I get BB's system converted. But y'all may have to remind me of this info. I think I saved the brake lines from Huck, the Bricknose F250, so I may be in luck. And, if I get a chance to go to to the shop later today I may try to track that line down as well as the F450's master and see if it fits. (It obviously fit on Huck's plastic/aluminum MC.)
  10. Yes, but it wraps due to the length of the text, and as you can see here it is taller than the hamburger. Perhaps just Bullnose Bible? Resources as in the ones in the Resources folder? They used to show????? Ok, I'm confused - again. Please explain further for the slow-to-understand. Yes, there are the links. And since you are usually at the bottom of a thread the footer link should be easily accessible. But I used the banner link, and teaching an old dog.....
  11. Ok, glad that I'm finally getting on the same page as you. I've posted the problem in the Nabble Support forum and my friend Greg has come back suggesting I turn on "Responsive" in the setup. But that's already on. Anyway, at least I got a response. But I know from back channel comm's that he's really busy right now so I'm not sure much more will happen immediately. Anyway, we are together on what the problem is now, which will make it much easier to resolve.
  12. Chris?! Yes, I miss it as well. And I'm not sure its absence is helping anything as the hamburger is still there, which generates the bar, regardless of having Gary's Garagemahal (The Bullnose Bible) in it or not. One issue though is that the text wraps, so maybe it makes the bar taller. So I'm wondering about dropping the "Gary's". Sorry, but what "documentation navigation menu"? What have I done now? No, that was my bad. I wasn't "listening" well. You told me, several times, but I had my mind set that it was the reply window, not the edit-my-reply window.
  13. Under the tire to lift the side of the truck up?...Just guessing. Near side? Off side? Front tire? Rear tire? Which tank does it work for, front or rear?
  14. I've done some playing and set the Maximum Width Of Messages parameter in Advanced Settings to 300px for my iPhone X. That makes the messages wrap nicely in portrait mode when reading the messages as well as when creating them. But, it still limits the width to 300px in portrait mode, which is too narrow. And, it doesn't change a thing in the window where you are editing your own previous response. So when editing your own post in portrait mode you get a window like this, which doesn't work at all since you can't see all of he message horizontally. On the other hand, you can see about 9 lines vertically. Or, you can turn it landscape and get this. You can see all of the message horizontally, but only 6 lines vertically if you scroll the Quote/Insert Image/etc menu bar up. And yes, if you scroll down you'll get the hamburger menu, but if you scroll back up a bit it goes away. So Jim, how close does this align with your experience?
  15. So, where did you put that block of wood? I need to know as it takes forever to fill Big Blue.
  16. We are making progress. And someone keeps saying progress is good. The hamburger is part of the same header that the Gary's Garagemahal (The Bullnose Bible) text was in. So just removing the text didn't really accomplish much. I don't know what can be done about that, but I'll look to see. Or, would it be better if we got the edit window to be responsive to the width of the screen and you used the device in portrait mode? I'm not saying I can do that, but it might be possible.
  17. I don't recognize them, but that doesn't mean a lot. However, you can see the wheels that were options here: Driveline/Wheels. And you see where the ID codes were placed on the Ford wheels on the Identification Codes tab.
  18. But...... Sumo shouldn't come up as it is now completely disabled.
  19. Jim - I'm getting lost. I cannot replicate your problems on the edit window. And I can't get the ribbon of social icons to come up on my phone, no matter what I do. But, I took Sumo off. Let's see what that does.
  20. Excellent! Progress!!!!! Congrat's. And good job of one-handing the hood. Those things are awkward!
  21. Wow! Beautiful!!!! Is it everything you expected?
  22. Yes, going negative on the 4X4 would work. And I was planning on "check engine" and possibly an engine w/a slash through it, as that's what I seem to remember from more recent vehicles. However, I don't know what "a simple I on" is.
  23. Jim just reminded me via email of this request: So here are pics from a spare bezel on top and Big Blue on the bottom. I've included those from Big Blue as they are more accurate to what my eye sees in color. That's probably because I used an LED grid behind the spares and it either washed the color out by being too bright or too white. The Emissions label is yellow with black text: Fasten Seat Belts is black text on a red label: Brake is also black text on a red label: 4X4 is yellow text on a black label: And, while I have the spare bezel in-hand: The tape/labels are .480" wide and fit into a .510" channel. So printing on 1/2" tape will be perfect. The openings through which we see the labels are .400" tall and 1.90" wide. "Emissions" lettering is .150" high by 1.025" wide. "Brake" lettering is .150" high by .520" long. And the person w/a seatbelt icon is about .250" wide and tall. Also, Jim asked "Have you considered printing on clear and putting it behind the frosted red?" And in thinking about that it might be easiest to print everything on clear and put that behind the appropriate color mask. (Obviously that won't work for the 4X4 label, but then maybe I won't have to change that?)
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